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Old 08-05-2014, 02:02 AM
  #10201  
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its not at all the same if your looking for a 1969 thats what you ask for..when i see that .....For all buggy kits, the Losi 8E body (LOSA8097) is a great fit, allowing plenty of clearance and a tight fit around the narrower chassis. The ProLine Slipstream for the Losi 8E also works really well. We recommend using velcro and ditching the rear body mount for buggies.
For all
buggy kits, all bodies made for their respective chassis will fit. i assumed it mentall suports screws suspension ect. didnt think esc...ok fine but how hard is it to put a supplemental part in product description on the site about that or something ..i would say put it in the bag it comes in but by then to late......and several places it says...newest...state of the art,...ect how do i know that i dont see a date..just cause something is discontinued doesnt mean its old either.it might be stoped a couple month after the relese

Last edited by scytzoh; 08-05-2014 at 02:09 AM. Reason: details
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:28 AM
  #10202  
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scytzoh, welcome to the imperfect world of R/C hobbies. No kit is going to be 100% without complications of some sort. Its our job a hobbyist to figure things out. I have on-road cars that literally have enough space for a 1" x 1" esc, that I must buy a Tekin, or Speed passion to fit into. Tekno had has no idea what electronics you are going to purchase and try to install, so its basically on you to measure the tray to see what will work. If it will not fit, you will either need to get creative to mount it, or get a smaller esc. A hobbywing SC8 is only $76 shipped from falconsekido. Yes, it sucks to spend more money, but the amount of money we spend on tires, bodies, paint, batteries ect. $76 is nothing.

Last edited by hobbipro; 08-05-2014 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:51 AM
  #10203  
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Has anyone driven a tekno converted rc8t and one of the newer kits(mbx6/7t eco, tekno, losi 3.0) and is there a big difference in handling/speed?
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:07 PM
  #10204  
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Originally Posted by scytzoh
this chassis has been nothing but trouble i have the motor in in the onlt position that it can be in and no matter where i place the esc it touches the pinion and sits on top of the a arm....what is with the esc tray anyway everything else sits in a nice groved spot but the esc tray sits all oblond and completly different that what is laed out it like a bunch of mistakes were made and they decided to sell them any way... i already feel that this chassis was a rippoff a peice of pretty aluminum and some plastic now it doesnt even fitt together properly a quarter of the holes dont line up the mud guards have gaps...no real way to keep your esc attached...they say to "also use a zap strap....the zap strap is the only thing really holding it in.. i was so excited to get this now im just angery and this rip off ..
Another option is to move the motor mount to the forward set of holes and use a long shank pinion if you don't want to dremel the shaft. With that setup though i'd be very careful that the ESC does not come loose!!! They recommend using a zip tie for extra security.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:31 AM
  #10205  
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thats been the best suggestion thus far thanks...what is with that tray any way it like the only thing that doesnt sit in a proper dimple like everthing else?every thing is sunk down a lil bit except that???and the pice of plastic it sits on could atleast have a small ridge on it to prevent slipng off.....even if i cut excess of of shaft still no room

Last edited by scytzoh; 08-08-2014 at 03:32 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:50 AM
  #10206  
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Originally Posted by scytzoh
thats been the best suggestion thus far thanks...what is with that tray any way it like the only thing that doesnt sit in a proper dimple like everthing else?every thing is sunk down a lil bit except that???and the pice of plastic it sits on could atleast have a small ridge on it to prevent slipng off.....even if i cut excess of of shaft still no room
I don't really agree about the height of the ESC tray. The overall height of the tray is 6.75mm. The space on the chassis where it sits is sunken down 2mm. Therefore the bottom of the ESC is only 5.75mm (I'm giving 1mm for servo tape, which is erring on the high side) off the chassis. For comparison, the bottom of the ESC on our EB48 sits 9mm off the chassis. The tray is up slightly for three reasons; to allow room for the screws to thread into the plastic, to allow the user to run wires under the tray no matter the orientation of the ESC, to allow the user to wrap a zip-tie all the way around the ESC and the tray.
As far as there not being a ridge on top of the tray I can see what you're saying, but again, this tray is designed to be universal and is included in many different kits and can be oriented in different directions, so adding a ridge to one side may work on one conversion but then cause issues on another. I've never had my ESC come off any of my cars, even when not using a zip-tie. Well, that's not exactly true, I've had the top part of the ESC case pop off and the bottom stayed stuck to the tray
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:34 PM
  #10207  
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
I can run against nitros for 25 minutes on 2s 8000mah x2 for 4s saddle pack easy with no batt change and love hearing the nitro guys cry while I take 1st and only come off the track @ 3.7v per cell (TP 35c 8000mah 2s)
I do gear low when forced to run with the nitros, I go down to 46/15 from 44/17
My car only weighs 7lbs. 12oz. in that setup and is very balanced left to right with a 51% front weight bias.
I use either an RX8/1900 or an MMP/1800 with TraktionDrive
I run a 8 2.0B with a very custom chassis that offers a custom layout and wheelbase that no one has out of carbon fiber
What do you recommend the mmp or the tekin Rx8? I am building a tekno converted losi 8ight truggy and not sure on the electronics.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:28 AM
  #10208  
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Default hot bodies lightning nitro trying to convert to ebuggy

Any one converted one of these yet? Looking for some advice & part numbers if it's been done. Been a great truck that owes me nothing. But I'd like to keep it around & I no longer run nitro
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:45 AM
  #10209  
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Can anyone confirm that a Bittydesign Force body for TLR 8ight 2.0 EU fits a Mugen MBX6 Tekno V4 perfectly?
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:42 PM
  #10210  
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Hey guy's and girls, i just bought myself a new HB D8T Tessmann edition and went and converted it with a tekno d8t electric kit.this new electric truggy that i now have is without a doubt my new favorite truggy. I also have a Mugen mbx7te and two Losi 8t 2.0e .the installation of the kit was perfect, no issues whatsoever .id like to post pics of it but i only have pictures o my cell and cant figure it out. If someone would like to post them for me id gladly email them to you or even txt them.this was my first experience with tekno and i glad i did it. It just a very nice truggy.
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:58 PM
  #10211  
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This is my tessmann d8t.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno Conversions Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:15 PM
  #10212  
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TE matching graphics
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:52 PM
  #10213  
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Sure is nice Taylor19, looks just like the one i own.nice
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:36 AM
  #10214  
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Default The last V4?

I'm probably the last person in the world to build a Tekno V4 D8 conversion :-)

As I'm not fond of the standard ESC placement, I'm looking for alternative solutions, even though I know it may compromise COG and L/R balance.

I'm thinking about bolting the ESC to the mudguard, as shown in the picture below. What do you guys think - is this a good solution? I'm a bit worried about if the body will fit.

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Old 01-25-2015, 12:05 PM
  #10215  
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The ESC is not safe there and bodies will have trouble fitting.
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