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Old 06-19-2008, 11:44 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE View Post
I saw that guy on many different types of forums in the past..... he is a fat loser kid... Ahahahha soo funnnyyy

I remeber he wrecked a scion or something and peeps was liek you got "sciowned" !!! lol.
he came on to one of our local sites a few years ago all "i'm sponsered by losi, got any questions". it was pretty funny.








and yes, i know i spelled sponsored wrong.
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:48 PM   #62
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Is this kind of information that I have to look forward to with my purchase of an electric?
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:03 AM   #63
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Nemesis- There is plenty of good Losi info in the XXX-CR & T, BK2-MF2, XX-4 and XXX-4 (some the XXX-4 info has been abit sketchy occasionally but there are more than a few strong members that post there) threads. Ask your questions on those threads and guys like DanGriffin and Matt Howard (not to take away from any of the other guys that give sound advise) are usually there to dispense useful and practical advise.

In the meantime just let this thread die already......
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:08 AM   #64
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Nemesis- There is plenty of good Losi info in the XXX-CR & T, BK2-MF2, XX-4 and XXX-4 (some the XXX-4 info has been abit sketchy occasionally but there are more than a few strong members that post there) threads. Ask your questions on those threads and guys like DanGriffin and Matt Howard (not to take away from any of the other guys that give sound advise) are usually there to dispense useful and practical advise.

In the meantime just let this thread die already......
Thanks man. I was kind of joking anyway. But hey, why let the thread die? I would like to take a few swings at the expert myself
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Old 06-20-2008, 06:34 AM   #65
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Last edited by Losiracer12; 10-04-2009 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 06:54 AM   #66
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Depending on how much bite your track has also determines how much weight- higher bite = more weight, lower bite use less.
Why would would you be looking to lose weight for lower traction situations? That's totally opposite to the standard rule of thought - or sort of like taking the sandbags out of the trunk when the winter snows and ice storms hit.




It also seem very odd to be adding weight all over the chassis, especially when peoples cars have been designed for straight packs. That and it would be easier for the average user and casual racer to use some sort of pre-weighting like this >>>
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html

Last edited by RocketRob40; 06-20-2008 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:16 AM   #67
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Ok - I'll test the waters.

Now to the meat of my question. Is it more advantages to put weight at the extremities of the car (front and/or rear)? I can imagine weight around the center of gravity resulting in greater weight shift during accelleration/braking - which would suggest it may be better to have weight at the COG - but I can also see the weight shift as being too extreme. Putting weights closer to the extremities might provide more static down force and possibly provide more consistant weight distribution during accelleration/braking.

What are your thoughts?
By adding the weight to the extremities of the car you will slow down the car's ability to rotate and change direction. The further you spread the weight the car will feel more numb. By keeping the same amount of weight centralized the car can rotate very freely around that weight. Think of two tops, equal weight but one is very large. The large one will take more effort to spin up, and stop.

Static weight is a great tuning option. I personally run a Orion 3200 with weight running down the bottom side of the battery brace (there is room because the 3200 had a small dish on top) and then I have another .55oz right behind the battery in front of the rear pivot brace. I tried weight under the battery for lower CG and in multiple other locations. I settled on liking those positions the most but someone else may decide they like something different.

Last edited by jkirkwood; 06-20-2008 at 07:21 AM. Reason: correct some wording.
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:22 AM   #68
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The further you spread the weight out the number the car will feel.
What number will the car feel like?
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:26 AM   #69
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Last edited by Losiracer12; 10-04-2009 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:31 AM   #70
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:32 AM   #71
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Losi racer pro... can you come to LI and beat one of the schlicks?
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:05 AM   #72
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Last edited by Losiracer12; 10-04-2009 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:12 AM   #73
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lmfao! good answer!!!!!!
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:14 AM   #74
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I agree with J Kirkwood. I run this combo Orion 3200 and weight in both buggy and touring car. I have my weight (sticky backing) attached to a strip of lexan. I can add or remove it easily as it is not attached to the battery. I also have different strips with different weights depending on how I want to weight the car. I also found that on top of batt and some more toward the rear were the best positions for the weight.
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:18 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Losiracer12 View Post
The higher the bite is the faster the car is going to react.
Um, don't you mean "the easier it is for it to react" - sort of like it reacts to steering or throttle inputs easier ?
A loose track surface can just as easily react "fast," as in losing traction.

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Originally Posted by Losiracer12 View Post
More weight slows the reactions of the car down thereby taking the initial twitchiness out of it making it easier to drive.
It also applies to the weight being put to the contact patch of each tire. Lose the weight = smaller contact patch. More weight = greater contact patch.



And then we still haven't gotten into the whole neccessary set-up changes relative to lesser weighted vehicles, or if that is even a consideration.
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