Any auto parts store...

http://proseal.supergluecorp.com/80065.html

ok thanks! i speak french so i'm more use to the french name of it ;)
i'll buy one!
finally THE solution! :nod:

Cool....yeah I've had it on my Slash Diff for about two weeks now and it has leaked a bit....and still holding strong!

Ok, didn't see it mentioned here, so I'll post my findings so far...

The truck was pretty good out of the box, but it did need some setup help. I wanted to try to keep it as HPI/HB as possible, but couldn't avoid one major thing...the HPI wheels.

I didn't like the way you have to use HPI wheels for 2 reasons:

1) they're heavy, and
2) they're hard to find. And they're heavy.

So, my solution was pretty simple, and anyone can do it with READILY available parts. What you need is the following:

• AE T4 Rear Hubs (including bearings)
• AE T4 CVD's
• AE T4 Caster Blocks (25 or 30 Degree)
• AE T4 Steering Knuckles
• AE T4 Front Wheel Bearings
• 3mm Drill Bit (3MM!!!!! Not 1/8")
• About 1/2 an hour

Additional Suggested Parts

• AE Ballstuds, or similar (you'll need 12)
• AE Ballcups, or similar (you'll need 12
• AE T4 Turnbuckles, or similar (you'll need 8)
• AE GT2 Quick-Change Rear Wheel Adapters
• 4-40 Nuts (anything that will anchor down the ballstuds)

Basically, you are going to drill out the hole for the hinge pin in both the rear hubs and caster blocks. Doing this will allow the HPI/HB hinge pin to fit into the T4 Caster Blocks and Rear Hubs, allowing you to use standard (some might even already HAVE some) wheels! You will need to add additional shims to the hinge pin since the HPI 'parts' are wider than the T4 parts, but this is actually a good thing. It allows you to shim the caster blocks or rear hubs front-to-back for more adjustment.

DO NOT USE A 1/8" DRILL BIT! That is to big and you will have a ton of slop! 3mm is the PERFECT size, but might be a little hard to find. I found mine at Harbor Freight (man I love that place!).

I one-upped the conversion and installed the AE GT2 Quick-Change rear hubs on my truck. This allows me to remove the rear tires easily to change or wash.

I also added longer ballstuds to the front and rear INNER camber links, allowing me to add a nut at the bottom to secure them better. Since the plastic is a little soft, the holes get 'worn-out' quite fast, and the ballstud no longer grips the plastic (and will start to wobble around). Adding this cures that problem. You will need to dremel, SLIGHTLY, the bottom of the rear inner position so that the ballstud and nut will engage (unless you can find a REALLY long ballstud - see circled area in the pix)

I've attached a setup sheet with my current setup (Thanks VVRC!) as well, but will be heading back to the track to test a few other things. I added 10K weight diff fluid but still think that's not thick enough. I also want to try the new, stiffer arms HPI just sent me, as well as some spring changes. Truck works really good so far, but I think some fine tuning will get'er really dialed.

Let me know if you have any questions on any of the things I've described.

And the links...

And the setup sheet...

PLEASE!!! Let us know your findings....very cool TPhalen...Don't see the setup sheet though

Thats awesome TPhalen!!! I ended up with almost the exact same set up, but I am using Losi parts.


Colin

nice job!!! i will change my ballstuds for longer one to fit the nut since i also notice that it's a soft plastic compound

by the way TPhalen I hate you! :sneaky: now i have to buy some parts!
just one question, since i have 3 brand new sets of wheels and tires (hpi) will i be able to use the hpi wheels with this modification? of course i will need the hpi 12mm adaptors, but other than that?
Thanks

:lol: Sorry.

You should be able to use the rears with the correct adapter, but (at least with mine, anyway) I didn't see adapters for the fronts.

You don't HAVE to do this until you've gone through your HPI wheels, you know.












I would though. :lol::lol:

Tony, have you added any weight to your truck? I put a few pieces on the front and it has really helped with more steering and helps with the wheelies too :lol:

i was about to write the same thing, i don't what to change the front wheels because the added weight help at the corners. and i bought new alu hot racing steering arms, not planing to change the front, just the rear part ;)
Thanks again!

Sorry, thought I added the part about the weight.

This is an OLD trick we used to do back, well, some time ago (don't want to date myself!!!! :lol: ) Take the front end off, but keep the lower bulkhead 'attached' to the upper bulkhead. You'll see a gap there, pretty big, between the upper and lower bulkheads. I basically filled that up with melted solder (do this in stages as the solder gets WAY hot and could melt the plastic. This adds quite a bit of weight, is out of site and doesn't require you to glue or stick it. Oh, and it's removeable and reusable.

I like the idea of the added weight with the front wheels, just wish it wasn't so far out on the arms...

Now this is turning in to an awesome thread....not that it wasn't before but now it's filled with all kinds of good info.....KEEP IT COMIN'

When I got my truck from HPI, I was told that it really wasn't intended to be a competitive truck. I can honestly say that it IS competitive and will only get better with more people running it.
Keep up the good work guys.

Colin