Team Associated B44. Race, Tune and Modify
10-05-2011, 12:00 AM
#6107
Hey guys, I recently got a b44 and love the car! I put in a lrp SXX v2 and lrp x12-6.5, reedy 5200 60c lipo. Here is my gearing heat question, the car came with a 18t pinion 84spur and temps are around 160f in around 7 min, so I tried a 15t and temped at over 170f in under 5min. Think I should put a 19t-20t on there? Here's a video of the track I'm running on at four seasons RC.
I might have to throw this combo in a 2wd. It's a screamin setup, it doesn't look as fast as it is on video trust me.
So what pinion, I normally wouldn't think about putting a bigger pinion on but I have seen a similar setup run faster in Maifield's b44 in 90+deg weather lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeFwN...e_gdata_player
I might have to throw this combo in a 2wd. It's a screamin setup, it doesn't look as fast as it is on video trust me.
So what pinion, I normally wouldn't think about putting a bigger pinion on but I have seen a similar setup run faster in Maifield's b44 in 90+deg weather lol!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeFwN...e_gdata_player
10-05-2011, 02:32 AM
#6108
160 or 170 isn't too bad but I wouldn't want it much higher than that. I think you should probably have a 19 or 20 on there with that spur. with a 6.5 I was at 22/78 with an LRP motor. So you have some room yet. Best thing is to try it and check temps every couple minutes. Then you'll know for sure.
Last edited by mjk1210; 10-05-2011 at 03:23 AM.
10-05-2011, 06:42 AM
#6109
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I ran a 20T pinion with 84 spur using a 6.5 all summer. Outdoors, 100+ deg Houston heat, temps were 160-165 after 10 minutes. When the weather cools a little or running indoors, I actually like a 21T. One fo the other things that affects motor heat are your speedo settings, so pay attention to those too.
10-05-2011, 07:26 PM
#6110
Thanks for the advise! Ill throw a 20t on and see how it goes, it's going to haul! I'm pretty impressed with the performance of the lrp combo, if I can get the heat in check I'd have it made!
I'm running the default esc settings just trying to keep the motor silver lol! Should I make a adjustment? I dont have the lrp USB cord yet so I've been avoiding messing with it!
I'm running the default esc settings just trying to keep the motor silver lol! Should I make a adjustment? I dont have the lrp USB cord yet so I've been avoiding messing with it!
Last edited by Jstall7543; 10-05-2011 at 07:46 PM.
10-06-2011, 09:53 AM
#6111
DIFF HELP>>>PLEASE
Ok guys heres my situation. I bought a used B44 a few months ago and it was an indoor/high bite track buggy. My track is a medium grip, outdoor track with bumps and jumps. My question is this...where does my diffs need to be set conserning how tight they are. I took them apart and cleaned everything and the thrust bolt was fairly tight compared to my T4 thrust bolt.
My problem is exiting corners on power. I can come in to the corner fairly smooth and tight but at the apex of a turn when power is starting to come back on it wants to push and leads me to hammering the throttle to break the rear loose and spin the back around.
This is not my driving style and not how this buggy should handle. My servo throw is correct also. Just playing on the concrete where grip is high the car will almost tun over on itself because it turns so sharp. I need this in the dirt as well.
Does anybody have a good starting point for the diff tighness to loosen it up in the corners? All the manual says is to tighten it and gives a diagram on the amount of turn with an allen wrench, no explination as to what that setting actually does for the car.
I put them back together for now with the thrust bolt being snug, not tight. I tightened until the ears touched the on the other side as directed but I did not over tighten it.
Any help on where to set these would be greatly appreciated.
My problem is exiting corners on power. I can come in to the corner fairly smooth and tight but at the apex of a turn when power is starting to come back on it wants to push and leads me to hammering the throttle to break the rear loose and spin the back around.
This is not my driving style and not how this buggy should handle. My servo throw is correct also. Just playing on the concrete where grip is high the car will almost tun over on itself because it turns so sharp. I need this in the dirt as well.
Does anybody have a good starting point for the diff tighness to loosen it up in the corners? All the manual says is to tighten it and gives a diagram on the amount of turn with an allen wrench, no explination as to what that setting actually does for the car.
I put them back together for now with the thrust bolt being snug, not tight. I tightened until the ears touched the on the other side as directed but I did not over tighten it.
Any help on where to set these would be greatly appreciated.
10-06-2011, 11:11 AM
#6112
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
jstall- I don't know the default settings on SXX2, I have v 1. But, I don't think you need USB to change programming in existing software do you? Timing advance, brake strength, amount of punch, are all things that can heat up motor and/or speedo. What is your speedo temping at?
R6- I generally run the front tight (just backed off from fully tightened) and the rear at the kit setting, and my car steers great all the way through the corner. Try that and see. Are you running the same tires, compound, and foams as the "fast" guys? Can make a huge difference in steering. Esp. since you said it steers great on concrete (high bite) but not as well on med grip.
R6- I generally run the front tight (just backed off from fully tightened) and the rear at the kit setting, and my car steers great all the way through the corner. Try that and see. Are you running the same tires, compound, and foams as the "fast" guys? Can make a huge difference in steering. Esp. since you said it steers great on concrete (high bite) but not as well on med grip.
10-06-2011, 11:33 AM
#6113
Ok thanks, I'll try those. I'm running calibers all the way around which seems to be the tire of choice for our track. We are a small group in 4x4 buggy so determining who the "fast guy" is has yet to be determined!
10-06-2011, 01:16 PM
#6114
Ok guys heres my situation. I bought a used B44 a few months ago and it was an indoor/high bite track buggy. My track is a medium grip, outdoor track with bumps and jumps. My question is this...where does my diffs need to be set conserning how tight they are. I took them apart and cleaned everything and the thrust bolt was fairly tight compared to my T4 thrust bolt.
My problem is exiting corners on power. I can come in to the corner fairly smooth and tight but at the apex of a turn when power is starting to come back on it wants to push and leads me to hammering the throttle to break the rear loose and spin the back around.
This is not my driving style and not how this buggy should handle. My servo throw is correct also. Just playing on the concrete where grip is high the car will almost tun over on itself because it turns so sharp. I need this in the dirt as well.
Does anybody have a good starting point for the diff tighness to loosen it up in the corners? All the manual says is to tighten it and gives a diagram on the amount of turn with an allen wrench, no explination as to what that setting actually does for the car.
I put them back together for now with the thrust bolt being snug, not tight. I tightened until the ears touched the on the other side as directed but I did not over tighten it.
Any help on where to set these would be greatly appreciated.
My problem is exiting corners on power. I can come in to the corner fairly smooth and tight but at the apex of a turn when power is starting to come back on it wants to push and leads me to hammering the throttle to break the rear loose and spin the back around.
This is not my driving style and not how this buggy should handle. My servo throw is correct also. Just playing on the concrete where grip is high the car will almost tun over on itself because it turns so sharp. I need this in the dirt as well.
Does anybody have a good starting point for the diff tighness to loosen it up in the corners? All the manual says is to tighten it and gives a diagram on the amount of turn with an allen wrench, no explination as to what that setting actually does for the car.
I put them back together for now with the thrust bolt being snug, not tight. I tightened until the ears touched the on the other side as directed but I did not over tighten it.
Any help on where to set these would be greatly appreciated.
Since I got my car I added the bias weight and modified the chassis for b44.1 bodies and under trays. I like the newer bodies a little more. The weight makes the traction great, not so scetchy anymore.
Do any of you guys Run the weight? I'm thinking i might machine it down to half as thick, it feels a little to heavy on the track. Traction is better but the cars not a nimble witch I need for where I run.
10-06-2011, 02:01 PM
#6115
I'm running the little lrp fan so the esc never reads over 100f
It's a pretty high rpm fan though so it's hard to say. After I shut it off it only reads about 110f a few min later. The SXX is a very impressive esc in a micro size. I keep talking about it because I've been running mostly tekin and mmp's for the last few years. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be.
It's a pretty high rpm fan though so it's hard to say. After I shut it off it only reads about 110f a few min later. The SXX is a very impressive esc in a micro size. I keep talking about it because I've been running mostly tekin and mmp's for the last few years. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be.
10-06-2011, 04:14 PM
#6116
A friend sent me this picture just a minute ago. You need B4 wing mounts, longer screws to go through the shock tower and bulkhead, and a b44 battery post. I don't know how many slams this wing configuration can take, so if you have difficulty keeping you car right side up, I don't think I would recommend this mod to you. Enjoy!
You just cut the bottom of the mounts off, don't take too much off, do a little at a time until it sits flat on the tower mount. The aluminum piece between is 20.2mm. You will see a couple of round mold marks in the mount, drill a hole in the center of each of those and then screw it together. Drill out the holes in the tower mount so a screw will slide through the mount, that way it will tighten properly.
One thing I didn't do yet but might if the screws pull out is to drill a hole so a small 3/16" nut can be slid in for the mount screws can have a little metal to bite into.
10-06-2011, 05:05 PM
#6117
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Yes, I run my car weighted. Not the full 85 grams, 70 grams right down the middle of stock LiPo tray. IMO it makes the car more stable and consistent, esp. on the blown out tracks we generally run. I also run all the electronics down the left hand side.
10-13-2011, 07:24 PM
#6118
Hi Guys,
Can anybody give an opinion of this car on a loose dirt track. I am concerned about that open spur and pinion.
Does the body and undertray work well enough to keep dirt out of gears? Would this be a concern on a loose dirt off-road track. Should I consider getting another kit with a sealed driveline?
Can anybody give an opinion of this car on a loose dirt track. I am concerned about that open spur and pinion.
Does the body and undertray work well enough to keep dirt out of gears? Would this be a concern on a loose dirt off-road track. Should I consider getting another kit with a sealed driveline?
10-13-2011, 07:52 PM
#6119
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Hi Guys,
Can anybody give an opinion of this car on a loose dirt track. I am concerned about that open spur and pinion.
Does the body and undertray work well enough to keep dirt out of gears? Would this be a concern on a loose dirt off-road track. Should I consider getting another kit with a sealed driveline?
Can anybody give an opinion of this car on a loose dirt track. I am concerned about that open spur and pinion.
Does the body and undertray work well enough to keep dirt out of gears? Would this be a concern on a loose dirt off-road track. Should I consider getting another kit with a sealed driveline?
10-15-2011, 04:38 AM
#6120
Never had a problem with it on loose tracks, and I've done probably 50 or more packs on that kind of dirt. Just be sure you route your battery wires so they don't catch the spur and you'll be fine. I do use an undertray. Velcro the body to the tray and it keeps a lot of dirt out. Be sure to leave exhaust holes in the rear of the body so you get air flow.
I was just concerned when I look at that open spur and pinion. I have never owned a buggy like this.
Can this buggy take a beatin'? I am looking for something to upgrade my boys (11 yrs old) from their Tamiya DB-01 Baldre's. Looking for something with tunability but should also be able to take some good crashes.lol.