lubricants
#1
lubricants
does using lubricants like comm drops and higher grade diff lubes and the like improve performance or just increase the life of the parts, I read in the product descriptions about improved transmission operation and other claims but does it really make a difference, I'm running both a truck and a buggy in the stock classes and what about gear lubes want they just mix with the diff lubes.
#2
With the comm drops I only noticed that they increased brush life but were very messy. If you get black death comm drops don't put it on over carpet, it stains it very badly, and don't use 1 drop on each brush each run, I did and It started going really slow so I took apart the motor and found a ton of it stuck it there. but for the rest my car seems faster lubricated.
#4
on bushings, bearings, dogbone cups, and on the drive shaft I use all around lubricant called zoom spout. Not only does it oil everything but diffs and gears, but it has a flexible tube so it can oil anything anywhere. I think you can get it at any hardware store.
#5
Tech Elite
We use Associated Stealth Lube liberally on all our trannies and diffs (Losi cars). We use Trinity Royal Oil on motor bearings & bushings and all wheel, tranny, and diff bearings. (Just a drop'll do ya.)
We're satisfied with the life we get on all the above items using these lubes.
Don't use comm drops. Period.
We're satisfied with the life we get on all the above items using these lubes.
Don't use comm drops. Period.
#6
Tech Rookie
YoungChazz
I have an old Associated B2 that I just pulled out of the attic. Tore it apart and went through the transmission and diff. Do you only lube the diff, or do you lube all the gears in the tranny where they mesh with each other? I am new to the sport so forgive my ignorance.
J
J
#7
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
You obviously need to apply grease do the diff balls/rings, but it doesn't hurt to use it on the gear itself. I usually use a small amount of Associated Green Slime on the gears, I've always thought it makes them run a little cooler, although it propably doesn't do anything except boost my race ego
#8
Tech Rookie
Randman.........
Ya, I did the diff balls and such........But I was just curious about actually on the gear teeth of the gears in the tranny. Thanks for the reply.
J
J
#9
Tech Elite
With a handle like that, I assume you're a trucker, or truck mechanic.
Anyway, we use Stealth Lube liberally on all the gears in the tranny -- ours run free & quiet.
Anyway, we use Stealth Lube liberally on all the gears in the tranny -- ours run free & quiet.
#10
lubricants
well thanks for the responses me and my son are new to r/c racing only a couple months and i just started driving at the track a couple of weeks ago, I use tsr diff lube and clean my motors each day we go to the track we are really learning alot about setup and maintanence. I turn my stock motors about every three to four weeks and use a comm stick each time I clean them. I use Trinity royal purple on all the bushings and bearings. I soak all the bearings in solvent and then blow them out with air. I am curious about lubrication at the shocks and pins for the arms and the axles in the rear, and what about the spur and pinion does it make a difference cooler is always better so I take all the labels off the motors and have even considered Heatsinks on em do they work and will they stay on. I know I ask alot of ?'s but that's the best way to learn. Thanks
#11
Tech Elite
Questions always good -- answers sometimes!! I'll try.
Paul uses Racer's Edge comm sticks for stock & mod. For stock, he pulls the motor after every battery pack, takes it apart, uses buggy blast on can, arm, and endbell, lets 'em air dry for a minute, re-oils the bushings, re-assembles, and uses the red & green sticks on comm and brushes. This includes practice. He usually cuts the comm sometime during the heats or just before the main. Cutting every week like this means he can take a very small cut each time. When he cuts, he always installs new brushes and springs. This is relatively cheap and very fast -- motor is always at its best. Comm lasts as long as the magnets do -- no decrease in effective motor life.
With mod, you don't buggy blast the can or endbell so as not to blast the bearings, which would require removal and drying. We oil them every week -- just one drop from the inside. Comm stick (blue & green) the comm and brushes every battery pack. Again, we get an entire race day out of one cut & maintain peak performance. At a big race, we'll cut and re-brush every 2 - 3 battery packs.
We use Trinity Royal Purple for both stock & mod motors.
We leave the labels on & don't use an heat sink -- they won't fit on the XXX. Used to use a sink on the XX-4, but found no difference and stopped. Haven't used one on the XXX-4. Most of the factory drivers seem not to use them.
For non-motor bearings, we carefully clean the outside with an hobby knife and add a drop of oil every few weeks. We feel that frequent cleaning with solvent & oiling builds up oil and attracts dirt. Bearings seem to last plenty long enough the way we do it.
Use Associated Green Slime for the O-rings in your shock cartridges. Install hinge pins DRY -- any lube will attract the demon dirt, which will pit the pin and ruin the hole in the arm or hub carrier. Arms should be plenty free without lube.
Nobody we know lubes the pinion/spur. Plastic spur makes lube not really necessary, and there's plenty of dirt in there without adding magnetic grease.
Hope this helps.
Paul uses Racer's Edge comm sticks for stock & mod. For stock, he pulls the motor after every battery pack, takes it apart, uses buggy blast on can, arm, and endbell, lets 'em air dry for a minute, re-oils the bushings, re-assembles, and uses the red & green sticks on comm and brushes. This includes practice. He usually cuts the comm sometime during the heats or just before the main. Cutting every week like this means he can take a very small cut each time. When he cuts, he always installs new brushes and springs. This is relatively cheap and very fast -- motor is always at its best. Comm lasts as long as the magnets do -- no decrease in effective motor life.
With mod, you don't buggy blast the can or endbell so as not to blast the bearings, which would require removal and drying. We oil them every week -- just one drop from the inside. Comm stick (blue & green) the comm and brushes every battery pack. Again, we get an entire race day out of one cut & maintain peak performance. At a big race, we'll cut and re-brush every 2 - 3 battery packs.
We use Trinity Royal Purple for both stock & mod motors.
We leave the labels on & don't use an heat sink -- they won't fit on the XXX. Used to use a sink on the XX-4, but found no difference and stopped. Haven't used one on the XXX-4. Most of the factory drivers seem not to use them.
For non-motor bearings, we carefully clean the outside with an hobby knife and add a drop of oil every few weeks. We feel that frequent cleaning with solvent & oiling builds up oil and attracts dirt. Bearings seem to last plenty long enough the way we do it.
Use Associated Green Slime for the O-rings in your shock cartridges. Install hinge pins DRY -- any lube will attract the demon dirt, which will pit the pin and ruin the hole in the arm or hub carrier. Arms should be plenty free without lube.
Nobody we know lubes the pinion/spur. Plastic spur makes lube not really necessary, and there's plenty of dirt in there without adding magnetic grease.
Hope this helps.