Tamiya DB-01 Durga. The next budget racer?
#872
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People still run these?
I am thinking of getting the DB01R, I think I would want belt over the Shaft DB02
I am thinking of getting the DB01R, I think I would want belt over the Shaft DB02
#875
Tech Rookie
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Still running mine now with TeamC shocks and Tamiya gear diff at rear and front one way.
#876
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
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I picked up a new DB01R for a price I just couldn't refuse; its a solid piece of kit.
At the same time I built it I installed the gear diffs in the front and rear, sway bars, aluminum steering, and shimmed out all the sloppiness and the car seems very solid.
I've driven it twice now at the track and I'm still trying to find a good setup for carpet but the car drives really nice. I've crashed it a few times too and its been really durable so far (my B44 would have broke under the same circumstances).
I'm impressed!
At the same time I built it I installed the gear diffs in the front and rear, sway bars, aluminum steering, and shimmed out all the sloppiness and the car seems very solid.
I've driven it twice now at the track and I'm still trying to find a good setup for carpet but the car drives really nice. I've crashed it a few times too and its been really durable so far (my B44 would have broke under the same circumstances).
I'm impressed!
#877
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I picked up a new DB01R for a price I just couldn't refuse; its a solid piece of kit.
At the same time I built it I installed the gear diffs in the front and rear, sway bars, aluminum steering, and shimmed out all the sloppiness and the car seems very solid.
I've driven it twice now at the track and I'm still trying to find a good setup for carpet but the car drives really nice. I've crashed it a few times too and its been really durable so far (my B44 would have broke under the same circumstances).
I'm impressed!
At the same time I built it I installed the gear diffs in the front and rear, sway bars, aluminum steering, and shimmed out all the sloppiness and the car seems very solid.
I've driven it twice now at the track and I'm still trying to find a good setup for carpet but the car drives really nice. I've crashed it a few times too and its been really durable so far (my B44 would have broke under the same circumstances).
I'm impressed!
You may like it better without the sway bars.
Andy
#878
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
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I've run it at Universal and up at Northern RC. I'll definitely give it a shot without the sway bars.
I wish I was going tonight to check out your setup. Every time I've been there (even before I got the DB01R) I never saw one run.
Do you have any setup sheet's done for Universal? What times are you running with it?
Thanks.
I wish I was going tonight to check out your setup. Every time I've been there (even before I got the DB01R) I never saw one run.
Do you have any setup sheet's done for Universal? What times are you running with it?
Thanks.
#879
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I've run it at Universal and up at Northern RC. I'll definitely give it a shot without the sway bars.
I wish I was going tonight to check out your setup. Every time I've been there (even before I got the DB01R) I never saw one run.
Do you have any setup sheet's done for Universal? What times are you running with it?
Thanks.
I wish I was going tonight to check out your setup. Every time I've been there (even before I got the DB01R) I never saw one run.
Do you have any setup sheet's done for Universal? What times are you running with it?
Thanks.
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
Just out having fun. Lap times at Universal 20.0 - 20.5 with an LRP X-11 9.5
As for set-up it is the same one that Steve ran at Fastcats. It was posted on the tamiya.ca site but it seems to have vanished with the new site.
I will look at home and see if Steve or I kept a copy. If not I will copy the set-up. It is very easy to drive but it is a little under powered to do the double/triple so I just double/single/double
#880
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
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That'd be really awesome, I appreciate it.
I've only briefly run there with the car and didn't have a transponder on while doing it so I'm not sure what I was running. I run high 18's with my 22 and I know I was no where near that. I just couldn't go fast around the corners without the car rolling.
Since this is my first 1:10 4WD I was almost thinking it'd handle like my 1:8 scales (TRF 801x/xt) but it doesn't.
Are you running yellow mini pins front/rear?
I've only briefly run there with the car and didn't have a transponder on while doing it so I'm not sure what I was running. I run high 18's with my 22 and I know I was no where near that. I just couldn't go fast around the corners without the car rolling.
Since this is my first 1:10 4WD I was almost thinking it'd handle like my 1:8 scales (TRF 801x/xt) but it doesn't.
Are you running yellow mini pins front/rear?
I'm not one of the "fast" guys but I'm sure I'm the oldest ![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
Just out having fun. Lap times at Universal 20.0 - 20.5 with an LRP X-11 9.5
As for set-up it is the same one that Steve ran at Fastcats. It was posted on the tamiya.ca site but it seems to have vanished with the new site.
I will look at home and see if Steve or I kept a copy. If not I will copy the set-up. It is very easy to drive but it is a little under powered to do the double/triple so I just double/single/double
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
Just out having fun. Lap times at Universal 20.0 - 20.5 with an LRP X-11 9.5
As for set-up it is the same one that Steve ran at Fastcats. It was posted on the tamiya.ca site but it seems to have vanished with the new site.
I will look at home and see if Steve or I kept a copy. If not I will copy the set-up. It is very easy to drive but it is a little under powered to do the double/triple so I just double/single/double
#882
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
#884
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I dropped this in another thread which is much more out of date than this one so I am posting it here again to get a little more visibility.
I've had mine for a while and raced it a bit, but unfortunately the local track was designed for 1/8th stuff so the jumps were huge and the track long and a little 1/10th didn't fare too well. You can see my old XB8EC sitting there which turned into the main vehicle for a while.
Now after moving again my local track is a 1/10th indoor so the TRF801X might be getting the shelf treatment and the DB01 will move back up to main vehicle.
I am wondering, after not running this car for almost 2 years, how many people still are? I have upgraded a few things as you can see in the photo to try and get the durability or adjustability up: TRF shocks, alloy bulkheads, custom laser cut alloy shock towers (because the 3R ones are complete junk and crack/delaminate/shatter upon impact), slipper, CV joints, and the alloy wing mount (which I am thinking about turning back to the stock plastic one to keep from tearing apart the rear tower mounting holes). I have done some nips and tucks around the chassis to get things fitting better, the CG lower, and a little more easy access to adjustments.
Are there any other good tricks out there to get things working really well? I have the suspension set up pretty well, rebuilt the diffs recently, the slipper needs a bit of attention but is still pretty nice, the CVs are nice and smooth still, and I have the arms shimmed up to keep the play to a minimum.
Back when this was my main car brushless hadn't really set in completely at the local track so I was running a 12 turn brushed Orion which I could get a lot of good speed out of, but there never seemed to be enough cooling getting to the motor even when gearing down more than I would like. On more than one occasion I actually got an old motor so hot that it melted the solder right off the terminals and the armature in the Summer sun. Would this be best kept to a Stock or Superstock type of class now?
I've had mine for a while and raced it a bit, but unfortunately the local track was designed for 1/8th stuff so the jumps were huge and the track long and a little 1/10th didn't fare too well. You can see my old XB8EC sitting there which turned into the main vehicle for a while.
Now after moving again my local track is a 1/10th indoor so the TRF801X might be getting the shelf treatment and the DB01 will move back up to main vehicle.
I am wondering, after not running this car for almost 2 years, how many people still are? I have upgraded a few things as you can see in the photo to try and get the durability or adjustability up: TRF shocks, alloy bulkheads, custom laser cut alloy shock towers (because the 3R ones are complete junk and crack/delaminate/shatter upon impact), slipper, CV joints, and the alloy wing mount (which I am thinking about turning back to the stock plastic one to keep from tearing apart the rear tower mounting holes). I have done some nips and tucks around the chassis to get things fitting better, the CG lower, and a little more easy access to adjustments.
Are there any other good tricks out there to get things working really well? I have the suspension set up pretty well, rebuilt the diffs recently, the slipper needs a bit of attention but is still pretty nice, the CVs are nice and smooth still, and I have the arms shimmed up to keep the play to a minimum.
Back when this was my main car brushless hadn't really set in completely at the local track so I was running a 12 turn brushed Orion which I could get a lot of good speed out of, but there never seemed to be enough cooling getting to the motor even when gearing down more than I would like. On more than one occasion I actually got an old motor so hot that it melted the solder right off the terminals and the armature in the Summer sun. Would this be best kept to a Stock or Superstock type of class now?
#885
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
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I still run my DB01R! I also have an 801x that I converted to electric, love the car (it's a carpet queen).
I run my 501x indoors on carpet (never driven it outdoors) and I run the DB01R outdoors. It's perfect because of the parts interchangeability and I actually like the fact the DB01R is sealed up for use outside.
I have all the DB01R factory upgrades on the car along with alloy spindles, caster blocks, and rear hubs. I've also found running the standard DB01 arms to be the most durable (I even run these on my 501x).
I have in both my 501x and DB01R the Tamiya gear diffs. With the DB01R sometimes getting the one-way up front. The gear diffs have been invaluable for tuning, especially indoors or on high-grip tracks. It's far easier to get the car to drive the way I want it to with the gear diffs as opposed to the ball diffs. I'm also run SC10 heavy duty slipper pads in both cars.
Like you, I have it all shimmed nicely with minimal play.
Both my cars are running LRP 6.5 turn brushless motors and the Orion R10 ESC. Everything runs cool and fits will.
I love these cars. They're different but still very competitive and parts are still readily available. I have no problems keeping up with the B44's and dex410's (the dex410's struggle to complete a race without breaking something)!
Go run it!![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
I run my 501x indoors on carpet (never driven it outdoors) and I run the DB01R outdoors. It's perfect because of the parts interchangeability and I actually like the fact the DB01R is sealed up for use outside.
I have all the DB01R factory upgrades on the car along with alloy spindles, caster blocks, and rear hubs. I've also found running the standard DB01 arms to be the most durable (I even run these on my 501x).
I have in both my 501x and DB01R the Tamiya gear diffs. With the DB01R sometimes getting the one-way up front. The gear diffs have been invaluable for tuning, especially indoors or on high-grip tracks. It's far easier to get the car to drive the way I want it to with the gear diffs as opposed to the ball diffs. I'm also run SC10 heavy duty slipper pads in both cars.
Like you, I have it all shimmed nicely with minimal play.
Both my cars are running LRP 6.5 turn brushless motors and the Orion R10 ESC. Everything runs cool and fits will.
I love these cars. They're different but still very competitive and parts are still readily available. I have no problems keeping up with the B44's and dex410's (the dex410's struggle to complete a race without breaking something)!
Go run it!
![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
I dropped this in another thread which is much more out of date than this one so I am posting it here again to get a little more visibility.
I've had mine for a while and raced it a bit, but unfortunately the local track was designed for 1/8th stuff so the jumps were huge and the track long and a little 1/10th didn't fare too well. You can see my old XB8EC sitting there which turned into the main vehicle for a while.
Now after moving again my local track is a 1/10th indoor so the TRF801X might be getting the shelf treatment and the DB01 will move back up to main vehicle.
I am wondering, after not running this car for almost 2 years, how many people still are? I have upgraded a few things as you can see in the photo to try and get the durability or adjustability up: TRF shocks, alloy bulkheads, custom laser cut alloy shock towers (because the 3R ones are complete junk and crack/delaminate/shatter upon impact), slipper, CV joints, and the alloy wing mount (which I am thinking about turning back to the stock plastic one to keep from tearing apart the rear tower mounting holes). I have done some nips and tucks around the chassis to get things fitting better, the CG lower, and a little more easy access to adjustments.
Are there any other good tricks out there to get things working really well? I have the suspension set up pretty well, rebuilt the diffs recently, the slipper needs a bit of attention but is still pretty nice, the CVs are nice and smooth still, and I have the arms shimmed up to keep the play to a minimum.
Back when this was my main car brushless hadn't really set in completely at the local track so I was running a 12 turn brushed Orion which I could get a lot of good speed out of, but there never seemed to be enough cooling getting to the motor even when gearing down more than I would like. On more than one occasion I actually got an old motor so hot that it melted the solder right off the terminals and the armature in the Summer sun. Would this be best kept to a Stock or Superstock type of class now?
I've had mine for a while and raced it a bit, but unfortunately the local track was designed for 1/8th stuff so the jumps were huge and the track long and a little 1/10th didn't fare too well. You can see my old XB8EC sitting there which turned into the main vehicle for a while.
Now after moving again my local track is a 1/10th indoor so the TRF801X might be getting the shelf treatment and the DB01 will move back up to main vehicle.
I am wondering, after not running this car for almost 2 years, how many people still are? I have upgraded a few things as you can see in the photo to try and get the durability or adjustability up: TRF shocks, alloy bulkheads, custom laser cut alloy shock towers (because the 3R ones are complete junk and crack/delaminate/shatter upon impact), slipper, CV joints, and the alloy wing mount (which I am thinking about turning back to the stock plastic one to keep from tearing apart the rear tower mounting holes). I have done some nips and tucks around the chassis to get things fitting better, the CG lower, and a little more easy access to adjustments.
Are there any other good tricks out there to get things working really well? I have the suspension set up pretty well, rebuilt the diffs recently, the slipper needs a bit of attention but is still pretty nice, the CVs are nice and smooth still, and I have the arms shimmed up to keep the play to a minimum.
Back when this was my main car brushless hadn't really set in completely at the local track so I was running a 12 turn brushed Orion which I could get a lot of good speed out of, but there never seemed to be enough cooling getting to the motor even when gearing down more than I would like. On more than one occasion I actually got an old motor so hot that it melted the solder right off the terminals and the armature in the Summer sun. Would this be best kept to a Stock or Superstock type of class now?