rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Just touching on that there, I just bought myself a DB01R for bashing around and am after some cheap but durable wheels/tyres, preferably ones that come pre mounted, any recommendations?

Cheers.

NOFX

iTrader: (25)

there arent many 1/10 tires that come pre-mounted, i cant think of any actually, the tires that come with the db01r are hard and should be quite durable

cuboi

iTrader: (2)

Look for 3racing tire.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-DB01-Whit...item563ad1b7f7

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Cool thanks for that, exactly wat i was looking for. One more thing. Does the DB01R come with hex screws?

Thanks.

cuboi

iTrader: (2)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Yeah-Racing-Alum...item5884201406

i have them installed on my car. but the stock wheels wont fit. so you can look for other aftermarket wheels which is more cool

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Ah sorry i meant the actual screw in the kit, are they hex type or philips?

flybyuin2.2

iTrader: (15)

Well it's been 2 months since I have upgraded the chassis, motor mount and a heat sink. The motor will not go over 130 degrees, the heat sink on the chassis gets nice and hot and it does the job, I assume the Tamiya upgraded motor mount is also doing it's job. I was dealing with the heat issue for quite some time but not no more


rnd_tang, they use the philips screws.

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Cool thanks! I ll order some hex ones. Cheers.

NOFX

iTrader: (25)

thanks for the report back, i too got the blue motor mount, i'd say it brought my temps down by about 15 deg F maybe 20, in stock racing, the lower temps help, so im happy to have it, and ive pretty much gotten over the fact that its $50, lol

flybyuin2.2

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, I couldn't justify the price either, the aftermarket is half the price but there were fitment issues and the cooling fins were not as deep on the aftermarket one, in the end I say it was worth it.

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Finally got my DB01R up and running, one problem though.

The steering binds when I turn full lock either direction, one side is worse than the other. It seems that it is turning too much and going past a particular point so when the servo goes to centre, the binding side will abruptly flick back to centre.

If I m turning full lock right, it is the right wheel that will bind (looks like somewhere around the steering arm ball joint) and flick. Same deal with turning full lock left.

Anyone have this problem? Fixes?

Thanks!

prorace

Did you cuted the ball adjuster (servo to steering), to avoid touching the transmission tunnel<?

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Yah, that part is fine, nothing touching at all.

I fixed it by setting the EPA, I guess I just had to sacrifice some of the steering.

Would you happen to know what kind of turning circle diameter should I be looking to set my car to?

Thanks.

prorace

ckeck the knuckles king pins...Maybe too tigth.

Try 1/4 turn less

rnd_tang

iTrader: (6)

Awesome, I'll give that a go. It's not so bad when you're actually moving coz the car going forward kinda pushes it back into place without too much of a jolt, its more when the car is stationary.