guinnes.s

regarding the diff assembly ,from witch side you insert the screw and trust bearing?
from the short or the long diff joint?
thank you

SpeedKills25

The thrust bearing goes into the shorter half of the Diff joint.

Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know the caster angle of the front hubs?

SpeedKills25

Why do you need to know the angle of the hub? You have three options to choose from for the angle. The first hole, middle hole and third hole.

guinnes.s

what pinion should i use with a 5.5BL motor?
any suggestions?
thank you
Salvo

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

depends on the track and motor, I am running a Vortex 5.5 sintered rotor and on a short track, 17, then through to about 19 on larger tracks.

bender

iTrader: (4)

I think (not 100% sure) that the standard caster is 10 degrees in the hub.

Tamiya have some 12 degree optional hubs ont he way.

Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

Erm.. Sorry I don't get you..
I didnt know I can adjust the front hub caster via a certain 3 holes.

Maybe I can play with the shims below the suspension mount (the triangle shape thingee) to get different caster angles.. but that also change the arm angle.. giving it a certain kick-up angle.

Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

Alright.. Ive heard differently that it's less than 10 deg.
The 501X blue aluminium hubs are 10deg. But I maybe wrong..

12 deg...

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Caster is 10' as I understand it.

Shimming out the rear mounts on the front suspension will affect kickup AND caster.

oople

hubs on the 501X and Durga have always been 10degrees - plastic or alloy - it's just that the alloy actually state what caster it is where the plastic don't.

Azman Azam

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys..

Carlos69

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone else upgraded their DB01 to c/f reinforced chassis, diff and spur covers and centre one way ? I only tested for a few laps (forgot my charger)but found the centre one way does a great job...it engages alot more predictably than the front one way (which I found too quirky and went back to the diff).
On the handeling side the c/f chassis/gear covers make it a little bit more responsive...needed more laps to test

Goodie

nice to see some tamiya folks on here

NitroStar

I race on very slick, loose surfaces. I'm pretty sure that I will be better off with the extra flex that is in the stock plastic chassis & gear covers. Most everybody changes out the graphite chassis on the Associated Factory Team RC10B4 buggies with the plastic one to get some flex for slick surfaces. I do want to get some of the thinner graphite shock towers though.