what temp is too high
#2
what engine? check the manual?
#4
My V-Spec is screaming fast around 240 degrees. But it has been up to the 280's a few times on the longer Mains (20+ minutes )while the weather conditions were changing (Air getting Heavier/Denser)
I personally don't like mine to get above 280, but the most important thing is your blowing a blue smoke trail! If your doing that your getting good lubrication. But like I said, the sweet spot for my V-spec seems to be around 240's
I personally don't like mine to get above 280, but the most important thing is your blowing a blue smoke trail! If your doing that your getting good lubrication. But like I said, the sweet spot for my V-spec seems to be around 240's
#5
If it's brand new you should be most concerned with getting it hot enough. Lots of times it is hard to get an engine hot enough during break in and the engine's life is shortened. Use a heat gun to pre-heat the block and wrap the head in foil to keep heat in the thing. This way you can get it above 200f while running it very gently to break it in.
#8
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
DONT tune by blue smoke! Tune by what feels the fastest, then back down an hour or 2 on the needles... Temperature is misleading unless your using an Exergen temp gun. The $20-$40 temp guns are for reference ONLY, as they are quite inaccurate. Youll be safe however if you stay around 230ºF.
#10
230 on my cv-r.
#11
rezenclowd3,
So your saying "IF" your not blowing any visible smoke out of your stinger richen the motor by 2 hours, and go for it?? And or tune it by the fastest a motor can peak out in RPM's, and then richen it by 2 hours??
To each there own, but IMO talk about extreme tuning....
I'll stick with a light visible smoke trail......
So your saying "IF" your not blowing any visible smoke out of your stinger richen the motor by 2 hours, and go for it?? And or tune it by the fastest a motor can peak out in RPM's, and then richen it by 2 hours??
To each there own, but IMO talk about extreme tuning....
I'll stick with a light visible smoke trail......
#12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Tuning by how much smoke trail you have is wrong. First tune the high speed needle to get max rpm, then to play it safe, drop (richen) it down 1-2 hours (all depending on your carb of course) THEN tune the low speed needle to get the fastest spool up without bogging or stuttering, then I recheck my HSN (high speed needle) then recheck again the LSN. Also check that your idle is relatively low and consistent when coming in from a hot lap. It may come in a little fast, then drop down slowly, that means the LSN is a little rich. If the idle steadily rises, your too lean on the LSN. Of course, this assumes that your HSN is close to ideal.
I can not give credit to myself for this info, but I found out from Rody who makes the RB Concepts engines. I have been following his advice on his forums and he is correct. I can feel that my tuning is much more accurate and that my power delivery is much better. Now just to get the right pipe for my WS7II....
Remember, if you change pipe, header, gearing, and or clutch, you may need to retune a little. (sometimes alot!)
I can not give credit to myself for this info, but I found out from Rody who makes the RB Concepts engines. I have been following his advice on his forums and he is correct. I can feel that my tuning is much more accurate and that my power delivery is much better. Now just to get the right pipe for my WS7II....
Remember, if you change pipe, header, gearing, and or clutch, you may need to retune a little. (sometimes alot!)
Last edited by rezenclowd3; 05-23-2007 at 12:29 AM.
#13
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
I forgot to say, when "playing it safe" by richening by 1-2 hours, it depends on what you think may happen during the day as far as tempature, humidity etc. Our track races in the morning and it gets much hotter in a matter of the first hour that races start. Because the air becomes less dense, less air enters the carb, therefore you can run a little leaner. If you tend to race mid afternoon or night, the air gets colder (denser) and more air enters the carb so you need to richen up you needles a little so that as you race, your tuning becomes more ideal to the outside air temp.
#14
i have been doing this a while and have never ever heard of that method but ok. i just find it to be a bit crazy for the new guy to "turn er til shes ballastic" then back it down 2 hours. IMO i would tune via that 30.00 temp gun before i would use that method. i personally tune by power and smoke, then use the exergen for a reference. i usually run my v-specs around 220 i feel that allows the best life from the engines and they scream.