JAM MaxAmps

Look at the Cater Fusion, the E parts will work on the Mugens.

Jason

warpig

iTrader: (7)

I used to race for them... haha.. I should be checking that... thank you!

JAM MaxAmps

You can get the e parts needed right here:
http://www.casterracingusa.com/produ...6&cat=6&page=8



Jason

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

I'm runnin the RCM conversion. I love it so far.

Been playing with a custom mechanical brake setup, but the way this thing handles I havent found much benefit with it yet. Wiht the XT8 I needed the rear Bias just to get it around the tight corners. The RC8T corners like a buggy so I can drive it around the corners faster than I can slide it around the corner.

In case you are interested...Mike (RCM) can make you one. I drew it and he machined it for me. Now that he made the first one, making more is pretty cheap for him. Works pretty nice and I can see it possibly being a bigger benfit for me when I get to the outdoor track on a low traction day. On the high traction indoor track for the winter the brake bias isnt really showing much benefit for me.

Speed_Freak_039

iTrader: (10)

Thats a sweet setup. How much that run ya? Is the RCM motor mount modified or his regular one? Just a new to plate then? I have a eight but maybe he could make one.

Also what FP battery is that? 1800?

Jamie007

Don't know yet, broke 2 hub carriers in less then 10 min...Waiting for parts and will try again...

I have an RC8 and a RC8T and IMHO the Castle 2200kv (1515 1Y) is too much for a buggy. But if your going to run it in a buggy I would say 4s should be fine. I ran my RC8T with my 4s pack and 5s yesterday for the first time. 4s is nice and had great power, on 5s front wheels are optional, because they hardly ever touch the ground! I could be going like 20mph and punch it and it would want to flip over backwards! In a buggy I think that motor would be just too much power. If your not going to go over 4s the Castle 2600kv would be better since its a smaller series motor, 1512. The 1515 is more for a monster truck or truggy. If you think you might want to go 5s I would get, what I have which is the NEU 1512 2.5d/f. It's a great motor and I get somewhere around 20 min runtime on my 4s and 5s packs (a little more on 5s). Just my .02

rhino420

i heard from a caslte employee that running a 2200 kv in the buggy is a great idea since it a longer motor its instant torgue as opposed to the 2650 needs a little more room to get to the same amount of torque the 2200kv puts out.. im not expert so if i explained this wrong excuse me but let me find the thread where he says a 2200kv is good for bug and trug..

Jamie007

I'm sure the 2200 would be OK, but might be a bit much. But when I first starting looking into converting, and was deciding on motors, I got my info from here:

http://www.rcproductdesigns.com/EightScaleFAQ.htm

Jamie007

[QUOTE=Cain;5380940]

Anyone seen this happen to anyone before? Conversions or not? I had a crash with a couple of tangled up vehicles about 3/4 down the long straight. this also broke the little plastic front chassis brace part that goes into the front aluminum top plate. (broke this part twice).QUOTE]

Yep got sick of changing those on my RC8 and started using the RTR plastic ones, haven't had a problem yet. That's what the factory guys use. I just ordered a set for the SC8 plastic chassis braces for my RC8T, and then use the metal balls from the links to do the steering mod...

Uncle Cliffy

iTrader: (8)

I've been curious about trying another motor for my buggy. I have a 1512/2DF that is a tad on the extreme side for the racing I've been doing. I was thinking of getting a 2.5D instead until I saw the Castle 2200. (1515/1Y I think?)

Anyway, I compared the weight between the 2 motors and the Castle is 3 ounces heavier! I know it uses a 1515 can, but I don't think I want the weight penalty. I haven't weighed my car yet, but I know it's a touch heavier than the comparable nitro car. (I try and set up my suspension accordingly to compensate for the extra heft.) Food for thought...

rhino420

yea i saw that too but i think with the new stuff coming out for bl 1/8 things are changing becuase that how to guide is talking about running these motors off the mm esc not the mmm esc that handles a lot more power also i think motor choice is also depending on track size i run a huge outdoor track so i think i am going with the 2200kv and if its to much ill turn it down some through my epa.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I am pretty set with the motor braking. Use brakes very little and the RC8T has so much steering its insane.

I went ahead and ordered the Kings headz pieces, CarolinasRC told me that they will have them in stock next week. I did order some more of the ends though just in case I decide to go back to the tubes on my RC8 as that is where I got the parts from.

Looking at your pic, maybe what I am seeing is a slight optical illuzion or something. its like at the very end of the motor mount closest to the chassis mud guards, on mine it has a very slight curve. Will post and get opinions.

One tip for those with the RC8T RCM conversion, what how your attenna pokes out the body. Mine was fairly stiff antenna and someone came down on it I am thinking and managed to slightly bend the plate the reciever was sitting on. force was enough to breake the antenna, I will from now on just let her dangle as its a nomadio tranceiver and it has that covering on it already. Just an FYI for those with long antennas

Let us know how the RTR braces hold up on the RC8T.

The 2650Kv that Castle is selling is nuts. Jason @ Maxamps ran this on his Caster Fusion and it had insane power. more in the buggy than what I could see in the truggy. So keep that in mind if you think it will be a mild motor, as its not. Its driveable though, just like the 2200Kv, especially if you play with your punch control settings. I am looking to sell my 1512 2.5D/F motor for the 2200KV motor.

Speed_Freak_039

iTrader: (10)

Surely the 2650 is being used on 4S. Otherwise thats a lot of rpm.

uncle everett

iTrader: (15)

This race includes 1/8th electric. Tight track with big powerful machines should be a riot!

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Doesnt look bent in ral life. I think its an optical illusion.

As far as the antenna, I just curve the tube and keep it under the body completely so its not sticking out and in harms way.

I might try the RTR braces too if the King Headz turn out to be too stiff and I loose traction.

Here is the best top view photo I had. the mtor mount doesnt look bent from the top view here.




Thats a 5s 4350 FP pack in the picture.

Yea, standard RCM motor mount with the custom top plate and mini servo. They arent that expensive, but I'll let Mike quote the prices. Also you will need the brake spacer for the motor to make room for the brake disk. See the part I have attached to front of the motor that allows the disk to go between the motor and the motor mount. Its installed in the picture above and here is a picture of the part by itself on a motor so you get a better idea of what it looks like.



One note... you need a very high quality mini servo to work this setup. I tried with some cheaper ones and didnt get enough braking power and the servos burnt up after not too long. This JR servo really holds up well. I ran one in my XT8 truggy all last summer with no issues.

Another note, this configuration doesnt work very well for a buggy cuz it hits the body. if you want to run this mini servo in a buggy you should look at doing something like the picture here. This is how I had it set up in my XT8, it puts the servo in front of the center diff rather than off to the side but it requires using a funky lever arm in the linkages. I'm sure there is another way to do that too.