Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Same as clutch bearing but flanged - 5 x 10 x 4 (but best to check 1st) That is what my 1512 2.5D is

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

The 125A and 78A ratings are not how many amps the motors pull at a constant rate. Those are the maximum number of amps the motors can pull at maximum power output (in watts) at a specified voltage. If you exceed those number of amps you will burn up the motor.

The amount of internal resistance is very low in our 1/8th electric setups. The wires are very short and of a very heavy gauge. The cells are soldered end to end in the packs. The heavier connectors can handle over 250 amps. Whether you run 4S or a 6S setup, if you make things all equal they will have almost the same efficiency. But the way we set up our cars the folks using 4s "typically" pull more watts. Doug is the perfect example of soemone who does not. He draws the same low 200mah per minute as jhautz and edumakated do running 5s/6s. He accomplishes this from a number of reasons (motor selection, gearing, car selection, ESC settings, battery selection, wiring and even his driving style has an impact). I guess the real question we need to ask ourselves is exactly how much power (in watts) do we really need in this class. That's the magic question and why so many of us on this thread have spent countless hours and money testing this stuff.

Actually if you just want to compare the battery packs the 4S packs only have 3 connections cell to cell and the positive and negative leads are the same short length off one end of the pack. In a 5S pack you have 4 connections cell to cell and since the positive and negative leads are on opposite ends, one of them is ran down the entire length of the pack. The only way to eliminate this would be to have the positive and negative leads come out of opposite ends and then plug them into the ESC. This is what I was going to do if I went to 5S. It shortens the one lead, knocks off weight and keeps the pack narrower in width. If you look at 3S or 5S packs you'll notice they jump up in both weight and width because of this.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

My 1512 2.5D bearings are 5x11 and not flanged. I got spares from Avid RC.

eXraycer

I did notice weight difference having just setup my friends losi with a 4s 5000mA zippyH and compared it with my own 5s 4000zippy H which should have the same energy density and thus weight but did not. The 4s was noticably lighter when you picked it up so 60-80gms would be a good estimate. Although I will say, about the 5s Zippy, from a low V cutoff point of 3.2v per cell I normally put in about 4150-4250mA. I think the figures stated on those packs were very conservative so this may also explain the weight difference somewhat. I might just put the LVC up to 3.3v on my 5s to preserve it a little longer while I don't need the additional minute or so of runtime....

I'm not going to run out and get a 4s pack though unless I'm forced to, so that I can race. (Not an issue right now). I am extremely happy with the 5s set-up, feels like the right choice for me but I'm not putting down any of your 4s or even 10s setups because the variety and freedom of thought is what drew me to this unique scale in the first place.....

I spend more time now tuning my chassis and handling than worrying about a 'poofteenth' of power or being 30 grams heavier than the next guy. It may seem funny but with all the variety that we're seeing, the massive power in these cars has led to a very level playing field where the game has come back to driving skill and car handling because the cars are probably 20% more powerful than they need to be to see any performance advantage with having a more powerful set-up.

I also think, for racing, the single best thing that they could do is keep the minimum weight at a higher level. This will ensure that there are less handling difference across the field of new and older cars and also it will keep costs down because manufacturers will have a framework to build their production models adequately strong enough to take a beating and thus break less parts.

RBMike

Just wanted to show off my D8 conversion, I've run it a couple of days now & can say it is a great car to convert. Heres what it is:
-Neu 1512 3Df (1700Kv)
-Locally made Motor Mount (RCM style)
-Losi Conversion battery tray (modified)
-MMMv3
-5S Lipo (3300mAh)
-Kyosho 46t spur/ 17t pinion
-HB Longer rear shocks

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-01.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-02.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-03.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-04.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-05.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-06.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/RBMike/D8-07.jpg

motomanpat

iTrader: (2)

Hello all,

Well I am here to ask if anybody knows if there is a conversion kit for a Hyper 8 or 8.5 ? I know that Novak has one but I am not sure if that is the way to go. Am I able to use say a Jammin or a Hyper 7 conversion kit ? I have read most of this thread but I have not seen any info.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Some of the other guys may be a bit more helpful but I know you are in luck for the most part. Check out http://www.teknorc.com and look around under the brushless conversion kits. You may also look at rc-monster electric motor mounts--they be an alternative to the Impakt/Tekno setups. Good luck!

glassdoctor

iTrader: (4)

ROAR weight 3200-3600g rule.

I've been told by ROAR basically we don't need to worry about the weight rule, which brings up 2 simple questions if this is the case.

1. why not change it?
2. why make the rule at all?

Anyway... the reason for posting is to list a couple weights I took on the Caster Fusion EX-1R. The final running weight varies a lot of course, depending on setup choices.

My car as it sits tonight: 7.75lb (7lb 12oz) or 3524g
setup: MMw/Koolflight UBEC, Neu 1512f, 1015 servo, Maxamps 4200ss hardcase packs (2), Jconcepts body, Panther switches, big bore shocks, and most of the factory alum hopups...

Car #2: 8.4lbs (3815g) with a big Hobbywing esc, 4s 6000mah packs, full aluminum parts, and Moab tires. That's too porky for ROAR, but it's very "normal" as electric 1/8 cars go... not a crazy setup at all.

stfitzgerald

iTrader: (20)

I think that looks fricken awesome i was told that the kyosho motor mount from rc monster would work also.Looks factory.

glassdoctor

iTrader: (4)

Very nice RB!

I need to get a pic of my new ride I just put together... tomorrow!

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Hey fellows, i need you guys help. I have having braking issues. My problem is, when going FULL speed down the back straight and I hit the brake hard, both my buggy and truggy front flips hard and quick. My buggy, i have 50% braking and my truggy has 75% braking. at first, by buggy didn't feel like it had enough brake, that is why i put 75% on my truggy. but last night, both of them was doing hard front flips.

Does the MMM work with the brake adjustment on your controller? OR, can I adjust the abs breaking on my controller? What should I do? I like A LOT of brake, but I don't like front flips.

Thx

rice_man

iTrader: (112)

When I was running motor braking I had that same issue. You're right. It is a matter of finding the right amount to dial in either with the ESC, radio or both. Unfortunately, you wont be able to dial in front/rear brake bias as you would with mechanical braking. I know how you like to run a complicated setup - why don't you give the mechanical brakes a try? Very easy to do with the Tekno chassis.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

unfortunately, i do not have that option for my buggy.

for the truggy, i was thinking still using direct drive (pinion) and manual breaking. that would work, right?

BlueWalker

iTrader: (15)

Neu sent me replacement bearings for a 1.5d and they are 5x11x4

They are NOT flanged

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Yes, that will work. All options are available with the Tekno conversion:
Direct drive - motor brake
Direct drive - mechanical brake
Clutch - mechanical brake

You'll find the mechanical brakes are a lot more consistent since they don't depend on how fast the motor is spinning to determine the amount of braking power available. Mechanical brakes will feel the same at any speed, plus you pick up front/rear brake bias for faster/more aggressive cornering.