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Old 06-30-2008, 08:04 PM
  #8071  
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call medusa for replacment. my 36-60-1600 geared for 45 has been beat on for a 7 min main, in 80+ heat with no heat sink, and all i got was 170 on the motor, there good up to 196 i believe, plus your higher kv geared lower should do a bit better than mine
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ta_man
Well, for one thing the ROAR approved packs aren't supposed to catch fire, because if they do (during the test simulating shorting), they don't get approved.

If you really wanted to, you could charge them as one pack with a balance adapter made from parts available from MaxAmps.

All that said, I run a single pack when practicing (it is simpler) but the two packs when racing because my track only allows ROAR approved LiPos.
Any lipo can catch fire if misteated by shorting, overcharging, discharging at to high of a rate, etc... Please do not think that the ROAR approved lipos can not. This would be a bad mistake. Like any lipo with common sense and some care they are safe.

They can also catch fire if the cells are damaged. The hard case does help protect the cells from inadvertant crauhing or puncture, but if they are in a proper tray, the tray does pretty much the same thing as the hard case. The reason ROAR gave for requireing hard case lipos was for safety if the lipo is ejected from the car. Strap em in boys...

EDIT: If you really want fireproof lipos try a123 cells or LiMN packs.
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:27 PM
  #8073  
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Originally Posted by Arct1k
Hyper ST Pro

- RX Sprektrum SR300
- Servo HS-5955TG
- ESC MMM (MM as stand in whilst being replaced - tested on 5S fully charged but will probably stick to 4s)
- Motor Neu 1515/2.5DF
- Battery 5s/20c 4000 or 4s/25c 5000
- RCM battery tray + Industrial velcro + Gorillamaxx Strap
- Rear Skid http://cgi.ebay.com/DE-Racing-Rear-S...QQcmdZViewItem
- Gearing 18/52 (4s) or 15/52 (5s)
- Diffs 5k 20k 3k
- Shocks 45w












I think that looks pretty Bad Ass!!
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:28 PM
  #8074  
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Originally Posted by ta_man
Well, for one thing the ROAR approved packs aren't supposed to catch fire, because if they do (during the test simulating shorting), they don't get approved.

If you really wanted to, you could charge them as one pack with a balance adapter made from parts available from MaxAmps.

All that said, I run a single pack when practicing (it is simpler) but the two packs when racing because my track only allows ROAR approved LiPos.
Well if those ROAR-approved lipos can't catch fire Mark...then why does ROAR mandate that you use a Liposack?

If your soft cell single lipo pack catches fire during practice, are you or anyone else, or any property, less injured or damaged because it was practice, and not a race?

If the club you race at is so concerned about the safety of lipo batteries, then why don't their rules also mandate Liposacks like ROAR does and the ROAR charging procedures?

These are moot questions anyway, since the club you race with doesn't even have a class that your cars can race in, nor rules for the cars you don't have a class for. Actually, they don't even have a rule about lipos at all in the cars that you run that they don't even mention....

Since the whole point of hard cased lipos is to help protect the soft cells from impact damage that could later cause them to swell when used, why would you purposely mandate a 2 pack configuration that forces the packs to be more to the outside of the car, where they are more likely to get hit? In any case, it seems like after yesterday, soft cased packs, and hard cased ESCs and capacitors might be a better way to avoid fires....

I know you're a gun guy Mark, and with lipos as with guns, anything that stores as much kinetic energy as a lipo, and has the capacity to release it so quickly, needs to be handled carefully. Lipos don't cause fires - people using lipos do. Guess how I thought that one up

And I still am fascinated by these cars, and still plan to get one together myself. Go figure!
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:45 PM
  #8075  
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Anyone know why I have burned up 3 servos in my car??? I was running probably my 5th pack for the day last week and all of a sudden my steering went crazy and then just stopped. Servo was dead, Plugged it in to my second car and got nothing. Switched around my receiver and got nothing. I got a new servo and went to install it tonight, got everything plugged up and when I turned on the car to center the servo, the servo went all the way to the left and I heard a pop like a gear broke, and then the servo motor got too hot to touch and smelled like it burned up. Now that servo is dead too.

Gear:

Spektrum DX3R
CC BEC set at 6v
Futaba Digital s351 servo
Tekin R1 w/ red wire clipped and heat shrunk
4s 6000mah Poly RC pack

I have everything run like I always did. Ran it for two weeks on this setup and it did great. Never had one problem. I had been running the new Futaba 451 brushless servo and it died all of a sudden. I bought a new one thinking the servo was new and un-proven so maybe I just had a little problem with it, no biggie. Now the same thing with the new servo. Could my CC BEC have gone bad? Maybe it switched from 6v to something higher? My laptop isn't here so I have to take the car to my LHS to use their Castle Link, but I am going to check that tomorrow. Any other ideas? I already looked for shorts or bare wires and came up with nothing . . .

- Andrew
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:00 PM
  #8076  
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Originally Posted by Racerx336
Anyone know why I have burned up 3 servos in my car??? I was running probably my 5th pack for the day last week and all of a sudden my steering went crazy and then just stopped. Servo was dead, Plugged it in to my second car and got nothing. Switched around my receiver and got nothing. I got a new servo and went to install it tonight, got everything plugged up and when I turned on the car to center the servo, the servo went all the way to the left and I heard a pop like a gear broke, and then the servo motor got too hot to touch and smelled like it burned up. Now that servo is dead too.

Gear:

Spektrum DX3R
CC BEC set at 6v
Futaba Digital s351 servo
Tekin R1 w/ red wire clipped and heat shrunk
4s 6000mah Poly RC pack

I have everything run like I always did. Ran it for two weeks on this setup and it did great. Never had one problem. I had been running the new Futaba 451 brushless servo and it died all of a sudden. I bought a new one thinking the servo was new and un-proven so maybe I just had a little problem with it, no biggie. Now the same thing with the new servo. Could my CC BEC have gone bad? Maybe it switched from 6v to something higher? My laptop isn't here so I have to take the car to my LHS to use their Castle Link, but I am going to check that tomorrow. Any other ideas? I already looked for shorts or bare wires and came up with nothing . . .

- Andrew
If you have a volt meter I would check the actual V ouput of the BEC. I have been hearing about a few of them failing lately and putting out more than the voltage they are set for.
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:02 PM
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RacerX
Your BEC is probably broken. It seems that broken BEC will short and allow full pack voltage to your receiver and servos.

I had one failed and burned my servo too. The spektrum receiver was ok.
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:02 PM
  #8078  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
If you have a volt meter I would check the actual V ouput of the BEC. I have been hearing about a few of them failing lately and putting out more than the voltage they are set for.
Will do, If that was it will Castle buy me two new Futaba servos? haha
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:09 PM
  #8079  
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Just an update on my EMBX5.
I ran about 15 minutes the other day on the track before my motor thermaled.
My setup:
Medusa 200kv
MM with 2 fans and caps.
polyquest 4500 30c 4s
gearing was 48/11

The car was not very fast but very drivable. A bit slower then the nitros on the straight but still able to keep up on the infield. I was able to navigate the track fine and clear all the jumps easily. The track was small for racing 1/10 mostly.

After 15 minutes the motor thermaled at 80C. Battery was about 105F. The outside temperature was about 100F
The battery took in 2350mah after the run. I figure I could get almost 30 minutes with this setup.

I have Neu 1512/2d to try next. I'll post how that goes.
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:53 PM
  #8080  
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i'm done with my rc8 conversion..but i'm running by now a neu 1512/2,5d with A 14t pinion...and 44 spur it's snappy as soon as i hold the trigger but it,s not going as fast i want it to be fast...i'm not a speed pass freak in front of my house..im running on a big open track with some long straight a more fast than technical track...should a go like 16t or 17t?? i'm running on 4s 5000 25c dont want to over load the motor on acceleretion...any help thx a lot!!
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:21 PM
  #8081  
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Yes gear up, try the the 16 first.
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:45 AM
  #8082  
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hi i have the kyosho 7.5 and i want to change it to electric. i have already picked out the motor and the esc which are the neu 1512 2d and the Castle Creations Mamba Monster, the 5mm bore pinion mod1 the CastleCreations 6.5mm Bullet Connectors, Hyperion EOS0606i Balance Charger,Lipo 6000HV 2S2P 7.4V Pack. now what im askin is what else do i need now? i know i need a motor mount and a battery case but i dont know which ones will fit.and what else i need? if some one could pm me with this or reply to it i would much appreciate it.
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:50 AM
  #8083  
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You can use this motor mount:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...rcmkyoshomount
And this battery tray:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...MFPbatterytray

Thanks Tekno for the reply. Do you have a rough estimate for the release date of the Associated conversion kits?
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Old 07-01-2008, 01:13 AM
  #8084  
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thx
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Old 07-01-2008, 03:17 AM
  #8085  
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Originally Posted by Racerx336
Anyone know why I have burned up 3 servos in my car??? I was running probably my 5th pack for the day last week and all of a sudden my steering went crazy and then just stopped. Servo was dead, Plugged it in to my second car and got nothing. Switched around my receiver and got nothing. I got a new servo and went to install it tonight, got everything plugged up and when I turned on the car to center the servo, the servo went all the way to the left and I heard a pop like a gear broke, and then the servo motor got too hot to touch and smelled like it burned up. Now that servo is dead too.

Gear:

Spektrum DX3R
CC BEC set at 6v
Futaba Digital s351 servo
Tekin R1 w/ red wire clipped and heat shrunk
4s 6000mah Poly RC pack

I have everything run like I always did. Ran it for two weeks on this setup and it did great. Never had one problem. I had been running the new Futaba 451 brushless servo and it died all of a sudden. I bought a new one thinking the servo was new and un-proven so maybe I just had a little problem with it, no biggie. Now the same thing with the new servo. Could my CC BEC have gone bad? Maybe it switched from 6v to something higher? My laptop isn't here so I have to take the car to my LHS to use their Castle Link, but I am going to check that tomorrow. Any other ideas? I already looked for shorts or bare wires and came up with nothing . . .

- Andrew
Andrew, at the june 21st morl race I watched a good friend burn up four $100 jr servos due to his cc bec passing line voltage (16.8v) sraight thru too his servos. I suggested after the first one he check the output voltage, but, he waited until the fourth one.
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