badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

+2

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

ok guys these are the questions you need to ask yourselves. this is for anyone who actually has a buggy already and has run it for a while.

1..are the cars durable enough already, not electronics but the chassis?

2...are the cars plenty fast enough already?

3...can the cars be set up to get around even small 1/10 style indoor tracks and even be as fast as a 1/10 4wd?

4...does it really matter if it still looks too much like a nitro 1/8?

my experience of them comes not only from myself but the 15+ guys i have run them against for the last 2+ years. the answer is yes they are durable, yes they are fast enough, yes they can handle plenty well and no i dont care that it still looks like a nitro with an electric motor.
there is an old saying...if it aint broke dont fix it. keep the min weight at 7.09lbs and companies will make lighter cars that are either more expensive than needed or more fragile.
people will also be more inclined to start using lower capacity packs to reduce weight. that will lead into people needing to replace their packs more often because they will be stressing them more.
so many bad issues can be easily fixed with one simple rule change, but then again that would be too easy.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I agree about the battery and motor on the same side. I am curious what packs they plan to run for balance.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

A plastic chassis could work, but it will definitely require some serious engineering. The aluminum works just fine. I think the Hyper 9 approach is the type of innovation we will see in the future where they are trying to optimize balance and handling. I am expecting to see changes in the drive train, diffs, and other things as the class evolves.

Right now, the mfg's are just trying to say they have an electric car, not really that they have a properly designed car. However, I do applaud HB for thinking out of the box with the plastic chassis. You don't know if it will work until you try.

Light, Fast, & Cheap. Pick Two. A rule that can't be broken.

Thopper

Where is a pic of the HB plastic chassis?

RBMike

Kvrc, I agree with 90% of what you are saying but I can tell you this, Lighter IS better. I have an MBX6 running a 1700Kv Neu on 6S 2600mA. This is a race set-up and our local track never runs more than 10 Minutes. I need 12 minutes of run time, that's all. I decided to lighten the car. It started at 7lbs/14oz converted ready to run. I've gotten it down to 7lbs/6oz and the car is even better handling now and I thought it was great before I started. Everyone who drives it agrees. The D8 is a TANK (I have one), it needs a pound removed from it some how. Maybe plastic is the only way for them. The battery & motor on the same side??? well I would have to see a ton of data to make me beleive that could ever work. Not sure what they were thinking there.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

I can't be so fast to make that decision. Many companies, it may be ALL, release products and are hoping it works out and find issues with durability. So, it may need a little material added to it. Who knows... The most recent plastic chassis issues I've heard of is the EA3 in a XXXT. The chassis would crack. It's fixed now as I imagine HB will do with theirs. Along with balancing out the chassis (I would hope).

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

what have you had to do to get it that light, a bunch of aftermarket lightweight hop ups? if so how much did you spend on them? also at 7lbs 6 oz. are you running the above electronics in your post?
maybee you can get away with a 2600 6s pack but i can tell you that setup pushes the system way too much from what i have seen for 10 minute races. a 2600 6s pack has approx 25% less overall energy compared to the more common 4s 5000 setup. yes i think 6s is a better overall system as well but i still feel that the pack needs to be closer to 3200 or so to keep the packs from being abused in a longer race.
this coming outdoor season many of the fast guys i race with are scratching their heads trying to figure out how to "safely, without abusing their packs" make a 10 min main with 4s 5000 let alone less.

RBMike

The batteries are never more than 110/115deg F after 12 minutes, The motor gets to about 150 to 160 on a HOT day but normally comes off the track around 130. The MMM fan never comes on. That's on a big outdoor track, in the winter (dec thru march) we run on a smaller covered track & the temps are lower with longer run time. I spent about 120 bucks on to lightening it (Mugen aluminium Axles & center shaft drive cups, Ty screw kit, Losi battery tray). The car was heavier when I started but the motor/esc/battery set-up has been in the car since last September & I run at least 1 day a week & some times twice. I alternate between 6S & 5S packs depending on how I feel the track is handling the power. I am using Thunder Power V2 packs rated at 25C continuos/50C burst. Tire selection will alter the weight +/- 1 to 2 oz. The lighter the car gets the less the power systems have to work.

Mister-T

There is plastic and plastic. I have seen Xray spring steel fail before the ball joint part does.

Plus, it's pretty much the first try for a manufacturer to do a full plastic chassis. The first try can't be perfect ...

I work in plasturgy. I would make the chassis in different material for front and rear end. A there is a lot of work to do to find the right compound.
In last resort a solutionn like HB D2 could work. A center base made of aluminium and all the rest in plastic

Sylvéris

Hi, I'm very furious : I have an Xcelorin 1/8 ESC and a Neu motor, and I have run them on my RC8 only 4 times !!! The first time I have connected my Neu to my ESC, I have seen on this forum an other guy with this combo, then I have placed the motor wires in the same order as this guy, because the Losi manual doesn't recommend any order, it's written to try different orders ! Today, because of a radio change, I have unmounted the motor... When I have re-mounted it, I have change the order of the motor wires on the ESC, and when I have switch on my ESC it has smoked and stoped to run ! My Xcelorin is out, just because of a bad motor wires order !!! But who knows what is the right wires order with the differents ESCs ? Is it the same case for everybody ? Do you all guys have to be carefull with your motor wires order on your ESC ?

I have an other problem, with my Neu 1515, it's new, and the sticker on it for the date: 01/22/2009, then I would like to know if somebody had nearly order one of those Neu 1512 or 1515, because of the Front End Cover ? I would like to know if somebody has a problem with it , because my front end cover has'nt been tighten enough. I have tighten a little more because the front end cover was moving. I have run like that 3 times before seen the problem. But I think the front bearing is out ! ( I have a little play when I push on the shaft and attempt to move it ). Has anybody got this motor and this problem ? What do you think about this design for a motor which is mounted via this front end cover ?
Thanks

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

The Hot Bodies chassis did not break in half..

It was tboned on the side and the rear brace broke. I dont think it was a failure on the chassis and the end of the experiment .

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Motor wire order does not matter on sensorless motor/esc setups. If when connected the motor spins backwards from the desired direction, just switch any 2 wires and it will reverse the rotation direction.

Its not likly your esc failed becasue of wire order. More likely a short in the setup somewhere or some other problem that caused the failure.


I do agree with you that the newer Neu motor front end bell with the threads is not as good as the original solid design. I had a old Neu 1515 motor for 3 years that I sent in for PM and new bearings a month ago and they told me that they did not have bearigs for that old motor can any more and they needed to replace the whole motor can to replace the bearings. When I got it back it was the newer style like you haev with the threaded on front end bell. I have not had any problems with mine so far, but yes I do agree. Its not as good as the old style and I am afraid of the very problem you are having. I would contact Neu and see if they have a solution for you.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Hmm, Hara is running a HB in the electric 1/8th class at the Neo'09 race. Be interesting to see if its the plastic chassis one and how he does.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

He should have plenty of room to run 10 minutes with that setup. You guys are scratching your heads because you guys like the high kv setups up in Michigan. They aren't as efficient hence the need for larger packs. I am moving down to a 5s 3300 setup for my 10 minute races and I still should have nearly 1000mah cushion left after I am done. I only use up about 210/mah a minute and I am sure a good 6s setup is probably closer to 175/mah a minute or less. So 2600/175 = 14.8 minutes of run time. Plenty of cushion for a 10 minute main.

There is less total energy in the 6s 2600 pack, but you don't need as much energy to make the same run time or generate the same power as the 4s setup since the voltage is higher and the motor isn't as power hungry. Therefore, no need to carry the extra unneeded weight around.