Jeremy Blair

iTrader: (23)

Hey Scott that paint does look awsome.
later Jeremy

trashedmaxx

iTrader: (10)

The body looks nice but wheres the rest of the car? Will it be ready for the jefferson trophy race?

eddie10

iTrader: (26)

are there any setups posted for a us style track thats a little loose and medium bumpy?

scott54

iTrader: (5)

Thanks everyone, I'll get a pic up with it on the car when I finally get it! Yeah, it'll be ready for the Jefferson race this weekend. It's been built for 2 weeks. The body should be here on Tuesday and I'm still waiting on my mamba..... should be tuesday or wednesday as well. As for practicing before the race, I might be able to make it out on Saturday.

Arn0

Look here http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=7888
Maybe not exactly what you are looking for, blue groove / clay, low-med traction and slightly bumpy but that might help.

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (221)

ask Mike B about the cogging he had with the mamba in his B44

scott54

iTrader: (5)

Wasn't he running a novak motor though? I've heard that combining a Novak with a Mamba will usually result in cogging. But Doug ran a novak with his and it was fine. So I'm not sure.

Jeremy Blair

iTrader: (23)

I haven't had any cogging with mine the last 9 months I have been runing them. Also with the new download they have out its real smooth, my d4 has had a mamba 5700 in it since it was built three weekends on it no problems at all. later Jeremy

scott54

iTrader: (5)

That's pretty much what I heard with the new software. I've also been told that if you need a slower motor than what Castle offers, the Orion motors are a better match than the Novaks... and that's straight from Castle.

Jeremy Blair

iTrader: (23)

I havent ran a orion motor but a friend does and I havent seen it cog. I think the castle motors are the way to go I run the 4600 in my 2wd and the 5700 in everything else. I think you will like it Scott if you need less motor try the 4600 a little less top end but it still has plenty of torque.

scott54

iTrader: (5)

That's what I kind of thought but one of the tracks I race at is about 40 x 60 and a 10.5 is about as much motor as anyone needs so I have bought an orion 10.5 just in case. I have a 4600, 5700, and a 6900 on it's way for 2wh, truck, and 4wheel. It sounds like the 6900 might be a little too much but that's what the Endpoint is for!!

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

The New shock cap can use in old shock ?

Thanks!

Jeremy Felles

Hi guys,

I posted this on my thread, but forgot to put it up here. This is the setup we were working on last weekend and it was very good. We were running on a med to high bite track during racing, but I ran it when the track was loose and dusty as well.

"Here is the setup that we worked on this last weekend. It greatly improved stability while maintaining aggressive steering response. Please note that if you are running in temperatures above 75deg Farenheit that you’ll want to run 35wt oil as opposed to 30wt. You may also want to experiment with that oil change if you’re running on an extremely high bite track with slicks."

Front:
Spring: Black (stock)
Oil: 30wt
Piston: #2
Camber Position: Outside on bulkhead (short camber link)
Ball-stud washers: None inner ballstud/ 1mm under outer
Shock Position: Next to inside on tower/ Outside on arm (unscrew shock bottom 3 turns)
Camber: -1deg
Toe In/out: In 1deg
Caster Blocks: 10deg (13deg Aluminum will be better, but I didn’t use them. Josh our engineer tested them and they felt and looked better)

Rear:
Spring: Black
Oil: 30wt
Piston: #3
Shock Position: Next to outside on tower/ Outside on arm (To get desired down-travel remove the inner shock limiter and unscrew the shock bottom 3 turns)
Camber Position: Inside on Hub (short link)
Ball-stud Washers: None under inner ball-stud/ 1.5mm under outer (This may not allow enough threads to thread into a plastic hub…I ran the aluminum hubs and loctited them. If running plastic I’d recommend 1mm under the outer ball-stud)
Rear Arms Spacing: Forward (This is important, run both shims behind the rear arm)
Rear Hub Spacing: Forward
Rear toe in block: 3deg (I actually ran the 2.5deg rear block with .5deg hubs but the stock 3deg block should work about the same)

Misc: Batteries Back, Wing Wicker cut down half way.

Motor: Banzai Brushless by Speed Passion 5.5
Gearing: Stock Spur/18t Pinion

DustinR

iTrader: (10)

I would assume that this setup is useing Losi oil and Stock HB springs in the rear?

peakman

iTrader: (12)

stock kit springs front and rear