8LikesKyosho Ultima RB5 Thread
06-01-2007, 03:01 PM
#646
Tech Addict
If a magazine gives all the kits a rating of 9.9, then I would say they are unbiased.
06-02-2007, 08:29 AM
#649
Hey guys,
I need some set up advice, I am having problems with mid corner and exit corner traction. At the the moment under power it is extremely taily
It is handling the bumps well and jumping fine but just has no rear traction under power
I am running 35 weight front oil 2B pistons and 30 weight rear with 2C pistons. Springs are associated greens up front and silver or greens on the rear. I tried all of the inner positions on the rear bulkhead with no success.
When cornering the rear wheel camber changes are so different to the B4 with the outside wheel going into positive camber quite heavily. Any suggestions?
I need some set up advice, I am having problems with mid corner and exit corner traction. At the the moment under power it is extremely taily
It is handling the bumps well and jumping fine but just has no rear traction under power
I am running 35 weight front oil 2B pistons and 30 weight rear with 2C pistons. Springs are associated greens up front and silver or greens on the rear. I tried all of the inner positions on the rear bulkhead with no success.
When cornering the rear wheel camber changes are so different to the B4 with the outside wheel going into positive camber quite heavily. Any suggestions?
06-02-2007, 08:31 AM
#650
Also having trouble with the slipper, the nut is almost to the point of falling off before being able to get it to slip. I am also finding that it either slips excessively or is locked and cant seem to find a happy medium
06-02-2007, 09:48 AM
#651
Lower the inner ball stud in the rear. (or raise the outside one) This should fix the camber issue and may solve some of the on power issues.
What is your front end settings. Sometimes too much steering will cause the rear end to feel unstable on power. Can you post your whole setup so we can take a look at it?
What is your front end settings. Sometimes too much steering will cause the rear end to feel unstable on power. Can you post your whole setup so we can take a look at it?
06-03-2007, 08:54 AM
#652
B4James,
Yeah, if you could post your whole setup, that would help out. Where th battery is, if you added any weight, things of that nature help out. But to get a more standard camber roll in the rear, you do have to shorten the link a tad and lower the inner or raise the outer on the rear.
Yeah, if you could post your whole setup, that would help out. Where th battery is, if you added any weight, things of that nature help out. But to get a more standard camber roll in the rear, you do have to shorten the link a tad and lower the inner or raise the outer on the rear.
06-03-2007, 09:37 AM
#653
I am going to take a shot at the rims w/out holes. The current trend in 1/8th scale is to fill the holes w/ ca and puncture the tire. This way the tire doesn't fill up w/ dirt and when it does it will just spit out the holes on the outside. Ever had a tire filled w/ mud and dirt? It's virtually impossible to get out isn't it? When you puncture a tire it will stretch a lot and leave you with an unoticeable hole that will allow the tire to breath w/out altering the car's handling characteristics. It will also not fill up w/ that water and such.
06-03-2007, 09:58 AM
#654
8th scale guys have done the hole in the tire for a long time. It is not a bad idea. 10th scale tend not to run in the loamy conditions where dirt and water become an issue but it is not a bad idea and should not hurt anything if you are having dirt in your tires problems. The Kyosho rims do not have holes in them so this would be easy to do. Get a leather hole punch (Home Depot) which works well for puttin holes in the rubber.
06-03-2007, 06:06 PM
#655
Another thing to consider is whether or not you will ever use traction compounds on your tires. If you think you will then don't put holes in the rubber. The traction compounds will eat up the foam in a hurry.
06-03-2007, 07:31 PM
#657
Ageed, if running outdoors or loose dirt, always vent the tire.
06-04-2007, 03:55 AM
#658
Tech Apprentice
Drove the car yesterday for the first time at a club race. Must say that im really impressed with it, but there are a few flaws that i spotted.
1) the anti squad, i know that a lot of people have talked about this. I added some washers so that i have +/- 0 degrees anti squad. and the car was way better.
2) The slipper, I couldnt get the slipper loose enough without the nut getting loos from the lay shaft.
Other than that the car was great.
1) the anti squad, i know that a lot of people have talked about this. I added some washers so that i have +/- 0 degrees anti squad. and the car was way better.
2) The slipper, I couldnt get the slipper loose enough without the nut getting loos from the lay shaft.
Other than that the car was great.
06-04-2007, 06:59 AM
#659
I took a closer look at my car last night and there is a little room for the front block to move up and down. Now much but enough to make an adjustment. You should not be making huge antisquat changes anyway.
The slipper. Did you "work" the spring with a set of pliers prior to installing it per the instructions? The spring will take a set after being worked a couple times. I have been setting my slipper with the nut about flush with the end of the shaft. This is a good starting point for me.
The slipper. Did you "work" the spring with a set of pliers prior to installing it per the instructions? The spring will take a set after being worked a couple times. I have been setting my slipper with the nut about flush with the end of the shaft. This is a good starting point for me.
06-04-2007, 07:35 AM
#660
To re-stress Caspers point about the springs in the car (Slipper/Diff)...it is very important that you squeeze these springs 4-5 times a piece to work them in and getting them working well. I also ran he car yesterday and as always, a dream to drive.