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Old 10-22-2006, 04:10 PM   #1
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Default Problems with LRP7.1

Has anyone run into problems with a 7.1 where it's really twitchy if regardless of motor or radio setup?

My radio range recently has become drasticly decreased when I have the 7.1 in there and if I get more than about 10 feet out, it just starts to surge the throttle and erratic steering control.

This thing has run fine in the past with both my P2K2 Stock and Velocity 10x2 modified. I thought it may have been my radio, so I took the complete setup from my nitro and tried that. Still the same problem, so the only thing left to blame is the ESC.

Thoughts or suggestions? Neither motor is supposed to require caps and it had been working without them.

Thanks
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:17 PM   #2
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Is your chassis graphite? Mine did the same thing when i had the graphite chassis, it was causing a "short" to the cchassis, nothing but glitching, then poof..no more 7.1
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:34 PM   #3
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Don't forget that the 7.1 REQUIRES a schotky diode on the motor...
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Old 10-22-2006, 05:11 PM   #4
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Stock BK2 chassis which I dont' believe is graphite...

Did not know about a diode necessary. I don't have the original documentation on the 7.1 and what I found online isn't much more help so far. Could you elaborate?

Thanks all!
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Old 10-22-2006, 10:20 PM   #5
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Here is a pdf of the LRP 7.1 manual... The diode is referenced under 'Installation'...
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File Type: pdf LRP_User-Guide_IPC-V71.pdf (280.0 KB, 111 views)
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:17 PM   #6
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bk2 chassis is a graphite composite.

7.1 doesn't "require" a schotky diode, i've never run mine and my 7.1 is something like 4 years old.

probably needs to be serviced by LRP if they still support that esc.

the bk2 routes the esc to receiver wire under the battery, make sure the wires are well insulated and not showing bare wire anywhere at all. you could try routing the wire another way using an extension so it doesn't go under the battery.

before i switched to spektrum, i used to run a ground wire from battery negative to the chassis (if it was cf, graphite composite, anything conductive). this can really cut down on glitches, but make 100% sure you don't have anything positive touching the chassis.
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:52 AM   #7
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tfrahm, thank you for the manual...was having a hard time finding that yesterday before I realized that LRP was actually Associated. I should just go back to my 15 year old Novak no limit esc, but I wanted something smaller/lighter so I picked this up from another member here and it worked great for a while and then started doing this.

Russ, good information. I'll have to take a look at all of the connections. All of the battery ends are open as on most packs, so maybe something is rubbing there...the esc wires are already run up and over rather than under the batt.

If it keeps up, I'll send it in for service or just replace it completely.

Thanks for the input all
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:03 AM   #8
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gndprx: the only esc's i haven't ever had problems with are my 7.1's. send it in to LRP for service and it will last you a long time after that.
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Old 10-25-2006, 10:59 PM   #9
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WHAT YOUR KIDDING ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH AN ELECTRONIC PRODUCT FROM LRP.!!!!!!! OH MY. YES GO BACK TO WHATEVER NOVAK PRODUCT YOU HAVE IMMMEDIATELY.





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Old 10-26-2006, 06:58 PM   #10
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thanks for such a productive post, it's folks like you that makes boards like this hit or miss when you ask a question...i hope you never have to encounter someone with your type of attitude when you ask a serious question....
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Old 10-26-2006, 07:55 PM   #11
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So back on track...Does it sound like I'm best served contacting Associated and sending it in for service? I have eliminated any wiring or shorting issues I can find...

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-27-2006, 08:57 AM   #12
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I sent back my lrp 7.1 and received it back in one week, will two weeks because of holiday issues. LRP has a life time limited warranty on all of their products and rebuilt 9 yr old 7.1 for $35 w/o sales reciept.

send it in or carry it in.
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