you don't run any arm covers?

I tried them on the RS and E8T when I first got both platforms many years ago and I didn't appreciate having the inserts crack and need replacement too frequently which was very cost prohibitive so my setup accounts for the added grip without the inserts, I also don't run the stock center braces either because the flanged ball ends also tend to crack and are high maintenance. I choose to run the 6MIK center front brace and no rear brace which hits the sweet spot of extra stiff 6MIK brace which over compensates the soft arms and no rear brace to get the perfect amount of chassis flex without the inserts in the arms.

The only high maintenance item was the spacers in the spindles but the WS spindles no longer wear those out like the RS did so kudos to HB for improving the design where my lap times are averaging 0.5 sec lap faster with the WS after comparing my lap times back to back with my old RS doing subsequent runs... in fact I don't even want to drive my RS anymore because it just can't rotate in the corners like the WS can, though I do keep my RS available as a rental and spare. Also worth noting that I'm still averaging 98% runs with the WS too (see race#2 results throughout the day here for reference), my setup is very stable and great for an old man driver like me :)

I zip tie the foam to the battery strap. Never had a problem.

E8
 

Running my E8 first time tomorrow! Looking forward to shaking it down

Lucky you we still have too much rain in norcal :(

Any guys still race these

Yes, I have a build thread here with recommended upgrades that I have done:

• HB Racing E8 WS

I am having trouble with the motor mounts on my E8 WS. Where the mounts our attached to the chassis and having a used blue loctite the screws are very hard to remove. I sometimes resort to drilling the screws out. At $100 a pop for the mounts it gets very expensive. Even using heat does not work all the time.
Thanks in advance

I have had problems with snapping the heads of the screws on the top mounts if I don't properly align the raised motor fins on HW motors. I have learned not to apply so much thread lock that it pools below the threads because it will gum up over time and prevent the screw from securing tight. If that happens then I use my micro-torch to melt the thread lock and drive a screw deep into the slot to remove any pooled thread lock. I use red thread lock on the lower screws that adjust the mesh and always use heat to remove any screws being careful to verify screws can reach full depth if I ever have to make any adjustments. It's a little extra effort but I once went through 3 spur gears in the same race day once not realizing that the pooled thread lock was preventing the screws from locking in place :(


In a perfect world, the mounts will have the threads tapped all the way through the mounts so any excess thread lock can be pushed out the other end.

4S Lipo Shorty
 

Can you use a 4S lipo in this chassis?

Thanks Bill where did you get a mini torch. And yes Jay you can run 4s packs shorties or stick packs no problem.

I use this one here and it has lasted me 10+ years and still going!
https://www.amazon.com/Refillable-Bu.../dp/B0733SWJQL

Do you have any setups for the E8WS or E8T Evo 3?

Yes, they are posted on my build threads here:

• HB Racing E8 WS
• HB Racing E819RS
• HB Racing E8T evo3

Note that the current WS kits being produced have changed the angles of the front caster/steering blocks which will likely require some minor tuning adjustments from what I have posted if you get a newer kit:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7&postcount=22

Are you running 3S in both?