b.j.a

iTrader: (2)

It'll likely always be a heavier car than the TLR or Xray due to the adjustable diff height system - it's one of the reasons I sold my B74.1 for a 22x-4 elite. On top of the other items mentioned (LCG battery and stock spec esc), you'll be able to save a decent chunk of weight by by using the carbon side pods (link). Other than that it's various carbon and titanium goodies but you're only talking a few grams here and there.

{tpc}

iTrader: (26)

Thank you! I'm not that worried about the weight because sometimes that effect handling too much and negatively. My yokomo 2wd cars always liked to be heavy, and any attempts to cut weight on them negatively effected performance. With the 1588 gram minimum, I'm more like 1700+ grams. So even 30-60 grams of savings would at least get me closer.

If running on astro, any benefit to running the plastic gears in the diffs? Right now its set up with the stock stuff. I could see a weight savings there too I bet.

b.j.a

iTrader: (2)

Oh 100% you should be running plastic internals in your diffs if you're running 13.5. It makes a noticeable difference and the car feels way punchier. Also, it could be worth considering the MIP puck system for the center diffs as they'll reduce rotating mass as well. I just grabbed them for my 22x4 and it makes the throttle/brake feel smoother and more connected link.

foosoomin

Hi all,



Is there anything that was left out in the installation manual ?


Heard that


1) shock absorber, AE did not tell users to add in limers (or whatever)

2) rear arm spacer too thick, need to file it thinner

3) pills not labelled

4) servo horns indicated wrongly in manual

+ YouTube Video

Has this issue been solved ?​​​​​

HOTROD716

1) Depends on the setup if you need limiters or not.

2) I personally did not have to file anything down on this build. I have the dirt version

3) pill are labeled by dot location, and whether it is .5 or 1. Setup dependent.

4) Stock is a 20 mm horn, some people run 18mm. I would suggest a aluminum horn.

I hope that helps.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

I LOVE the 18mm horn. Makes the car much smoother to drive.

Had to adjust the length of the link between the horn and bellcranks, though.

HOTROD716

In what way? I run the 20mm, and all things being equal, would you not have to adjust for anything? I cannot picture what would need adjusting, maybe the spacer to clear on the shorter throw.

BigBuckORamma

Shorter horn makes for a slower steering ratio, which calms down the steering.

Same is true on all of the copy cat 4WD's. If you can run a shorter horn it takes the edge off. Or like in the case of the 22X-4, they run a longer Pivot Arm on the servo side of the Bell Crank, which has the same effect.

And depending on the angle the link between the bell crank and horn sits, it will have to have the length adjusted slightly so that on center with the servo is still on center with the bell crank.

With a shorter horn, the link will drop slightly, which would move the ball stud away. As the link dropping down, would also swing it away from the center line of the servo horn.


If you need to visualize. Take a ball point pen, and set it on a piece of paper. Mark where each end of the Pen is on the paper. Now on one end of the pen, draw another dot one inch directly below the first dot. Keeping the other side of the pen on the dot, swing the other end toward the dot you just drew one inch lower. Notice there is now a gap between the end of the pen, and the dot. This is because the pen is not long enough to reach that length, because as it swings down, it also swings away on the radius.

Now shrink that down so the fixed end of the pen is the bell crank arm. The pen is the turn buckle link. And the two dots represent the 20mm and 18mm servo horn. So shrinking the length of the servo horn means you lengthen the connection, and vice versa.

Make sense?

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

The shorter horn makes it so you don't get full lock in one direction (I don't remember which).

If you put the 18mm one on, just check that you get full lock (at the wheel) in both directions and adjust accordingly.

HOTROD716

Thank you it does make sense. At first I could not picture it, but once explained, it was clear. Thanks!

RogerM

This seems odd, I'm at less than 95% at full throw using any of the available steering plates with an 18mm horn.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

It wasn't because of 95% vs 100% of throw on radio, the servo horn hit the top of the servo before the outer steering plate hit the caster block (ie. even if I tried my radio at 120% it wouldn't have mattered - would have just damaged my servo)

Maybe I started off one click left/right of you on the servo itself. Or maybe we have servos with different numbers of teeth. Or maybe different servos are at different angles. Or maybe you or I have more/less spacers between the horn and the ballstud.

Either way, it's perfect now on both our cars and made a positive difference in handling

Madpayas0

What are the lightest (read best) titanium turnbuckles for thr 74.1?

Cromulent

iTrader: (8)

I don't think I've ever seen weights published. I've used Lundsford on 5 builds, never bent one - they've been making turnbuckles for a few decades, and doing it right. I usually get mine through WallieBuilds in sweet colors, with rod ends, pre-built for the same money as just the parts to DIY.

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (16)

1UP I think has the best IMHO. Never an issue with Lunsford.