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Team Associated B74 4wd buggy

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Team Associated B74 4wd buggy

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Old 08-14-2019, 10:03 AM   -   Wikipost
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B74 Manual
New parts list
Product page
petitrc set-up page
Pistons explained

B64 carry-over parts:

- front and rear wheels
- springs
- pistons
- plastic diff gears
- shock caps
- spring cups
- arm mount inserts
- ball cups
- wing
- clamping wheel hexes
- generic hardware, tools, fluids
- ...

Fan mounts:
Revolution Design Yokomo YZ-4SF Aluminium Fan Mount RDRP0474
Schelle B74 Fan Mount and Wire Clip SCH1444 (SCH1444-COMBO with Motiv fan)
Revolution Design B74 Fan Mount RDRP0495

Aluminum options:
front shock tower RDRP0496
rear shock tower RDRP0497
rear hub set RDRP0489

Gear chart:

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Old 09-09-2019, 08:05 AM
  #571  
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Can someone give me a little guidance on the pill setup for the C and D block on this setup sheet? Iím just getting back into rc after more than a decade off (itíll also be the first time for me trying racing), and I donít think any of the previous kits I built used pills. Iím not sure if thereís info missing from the setup sheet or itís just me. I tried looking at the back of the manual to try and figure out the pill orientation, but still couldnít figure out what pills in what orientation.
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon55 View Post
Can someone give me a little guidance on the pill setup for the C and D block on this setup sheet?


There is some information missing on the C-block pill setup. The A,B and D are all center insert so you can't get those wrong :-) The missing part for the c-block is whether its 1* or .5* out ... He indicated the d-block was 1* but shows center in the pill position, I will just assume he meant 1* out on the c-block. Moving the C-block out will effect the toe and the track width as shown in the manual. If you are just coming back from racing don't worry about it too much and just drive it.
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Old 09-16-2019, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nesbot View Post


There is some information missing on the C-block pill setup. The A,B and D are all center insert so you can't get those wrong :-) The missing part for the c-block is whether its 1* or .5* out ... He indicated the d-block was 1* but shows center in the pill position, I will just assume he meant 1* out on the c-block. Moving the C-block out will effect the toe and the track width as shown in the manual. If you are just coming back from racing don't worry about it too much and just drive it.
Thanks. I actually put the 1 degree blocks in a few nights ago when my extra diff shims came in. Like you, I also figured thatís what he meant. Since it was a very high traction track, not as much toe-in is needed.

Can someone give me a starting point on what pinion to use with a 13.5T with the 78 spur? Just trying to get a ballpark idea and then Iíll start checking temps.
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon55 View Post

Thanks. I actually put the 1 degree blocks in a few nights ago when my extra diff shims came in. Like you, I also figured thatís what he meant. Since it was a very high traction track, not as much toe-in is needed.

Can someone give me a starting point on what pinion to use with a 13.5T with the 78 spur? Just trying to get a ballpark idea and then Iíll start checking temps.
If it's one of the newer gen motors then 22-23 if it's a previous gen motor then a little bit higher.
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Di_spencer View Post
If it's one of the newer gen motors then 22-23 if it's a previous gen motor then a little bit higher.
Itís a Tekin G3 Spec-R, which states to use a pinion 4 to 5 teeth smaller than what would normally be used. So would you still recommend a 22 or 23?
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon55 View Post

Itís a Tekin G3 Spec-R, which states to use a pinion 4 to 5 teeth smaller than what would normally be used. So would you still recommend a 22 or 23?
Yeah, I am running the G3 Spec-R as well. I really like it by the way. I was running 22/75 or 23/78 but our new layout requires so much braking it heats up motors really quick so I went to 22/78. So, yeah, in short I would still recommend a 22 or 23 to start with.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:39 PM
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I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon55 View Post

Itís a Tekin G3 Spec-R, which states to use a pinion 4 to 5 teeth smaller than what would normally be used. So would you still recommend a 22 or 23?
yes. I run a 22 and my kid a 23 with the spec r. either is fine, 22 runs a tad cooler.
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
Most people don't have the knowledge of setup to do this effectively, nor the time to spend at the track figuring it out. I rarely find a "pro" setup to be difficult to drive. They strive for the same things as we do- fast and as easy to drive as possible. I find these setups to be excellent starting points for known similar surfaces. Usually track prep and tires will necessitate minor changes compared to how they ran them at the time they were recorded.
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Old 09-17-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Most people don't have the knowledge of setup to do this effectively, nor the time to spend at the track figuring it out. I rarely find a "pro" setup to be difficult to drive. They strive for the same things as we do- fast and as easy to drive as possible. I find these setups to be excellent starting points for known similar surfaces. Usually track prep and tires will necessitate minor changes compared to how they ran them at the time they were recorded.
Agreed. As with anything in this hobby, don't take it as absolute gospel but use it as a guide to help stay in the right direction.
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Old 09-17-2019, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Di_spencer View Post
Yeah, I am running the G3 Spec-R as well. I really like it by the way. I was running 22/75 or 23/78 but our new layout requires so much braking it heats up motors really quick so I went to 22/78. So, yeah, in short I would still recommend a 22 or 23 to start with.
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
yes. I run a 22 and my kid a 23 with the spec r. either is fine, 22 runs a tad cooler.
Cool. Iíll start with the 22 then. Good to hear that about the motor. I canít wait to try it out.
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Old 09-17-2019, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Most people don't have the knowledge of setup to do this effectively, nor the time to spend at the track figuring it out. I rarely find a "pro" setup to be difficult to drive. They strive for the same things as we do- fast and as easy to drive as possible. I find these setups to be excellent starting points for known similar surfaces. Usually track prep and tires will necessitate minor changes compared to how they ran them at the time they were recorded.
Originally Posted by Di_spencer View Post
Agreed. As with anything in this hobby, don't take it as absolute gospel but use it as a guide to help stay in the right direction.
​​​​
Di_spencer made a good point in an earlier post in that the stock setup is a compromise between dirt, clay, and carpet, when I asked if anyone had tried the carpet setup listed on AEís site. I was just trying to save myself some time in the initial setup to hopefully get me close to what will work at my local track. If it doesnít work for me, then Iíll just make changes. Which Iíll probably have to do anyway. I stopped by the track today to grab a pinion and the track layout changed. Itís still small and tight, but watching a guy tonight I noticed that the short straight isnít smooth. Itís rippled, almost washboard now. So my ride height will probably go up, which means my diff height is going to have to change from where I have it set now to bring the driveshafts back to level. Wonít know until I run it though. Should be soon. I just need to get my hands on 15.5 25 spline aluminum servo horn.

Speaking of the servo, how are you guys setting up your servo in the mount? Pushed all the way to the top of the mount with no gap at the carbon fiber? Or down towards the chassis? Itís my first kit with a floating mount.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon55 View Post





Di_spencer made a good point in an earlier post in that the stock setup is a compromise between dirt, clay, and carpet, when I asked if anyone had tried the carpet setup listed on AEís site. I was just trying to save myself some time in the initial setup to hopefully get me close to what will work at my local track. If it doesnít work for me, then Iíll just make changes. Which Iíll probably have to do anyway. I stopped by the track today to grab a pinion and the track layout changed. Itís still small and tight, but watching a guy tonight I noticed that the short straight isnít smooth. Itís rippled, almost washboard now. So my ride height will probably go up, which means my diff height is going to have to change from where I have it set now to bring the driveshafts back to level. Wonít know until I run it though. Should be soon. I just need to get my hands on 15.5 25 spline aluminum servo horn.

Speaking of the servo, how are you guys setting up your servo in the mount? Pushed all the way to the top of the mount with no gap at the carbon fiber? Or down towards the chassis? Itís my first kit with a floating mount.
Just heads up, the kit horn is 15.5mm. I usually try to center the mounting holes over the mounts but I don't think it's a very big deal.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:50 PM
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I just finished my B74 and was binding my radio and noticed the steering in the normal setting was reversed (turn right car goes left). I had to reverse the steering on the radio for it to turn as it should. This is my first 4wd 1/10 scale Kit so I was wondering if this was normal? All my other 2wd kits and 1/8 scale buggy all work as they should in normal. Servo is a Savox Black Edition 1258 TG.
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Old Yesterday, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
A Great point.What I call driving style , no two people have the same driving style.
Even that said a car set up to box stock or kit set up is not that far of a stretch from the Pro set up.Dont overthink it ,I tell people.As long as A driver or builder has some set up knowledge and can Get a Kit set up, the car is gonna work and well.
At best all set ups are slight tweeks off that setting, and not out in Left field somewhere Lol
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