301LikesTeam Associated B74 4wd buggy
08-14-2019, 10:03 AM - Wikipost
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B74 Manual
New parts list Product page petitrc set-up page Pistons explained B64 carry-over parts: - front and rear wheels - springs - pistons - plastic diff gears - shock caps - spring cups - arm mount inserts - ball cups - wing - clamping wheel hexes - generic hardware, tools, fluids - ... Fan mounts: Revolution Design Yokomo YZ-4SF Aluminium Fan Mount RDRP0474 Schelle B74 Fan Mount and Wire Clip SCH1444 (SCH1444-COMBO with Motiv fan) Revolution Design B74 Fan Mount RDRP0495 Aluminum options: front shock tower RDRP0496 rear shock tower RDRP0497 rear hub set RDRP0489 Gear chart: 
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09-09-2019, 08:05 AM
#571
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
Can someone give me a little guidance on the pill setup for the C and D block on this setup sheet? I’m just getting back into rc after more than a decade off (it’ll also be the first time for me trying racing), and I don’t think any of the previous kits I built used pills. I’m not sure if there’s info missing from the setup sheet or it’s just me. I tried looking at the back of the manual to try and figure out the pill orientation, but still couldn’t figure out what pills in what orientation.
09-16-2019, 02:04 PM
#572
Tech Adept
There is some information missing on the C-block pill setup. The A,B and D are all center insert so you can't get those wrong :-) The missing part for the c-block is whether its 1* or .5* out ... He indicated the d-block was 1* but shows center in the pill position, I will just assume he meant 1* out on the c-block. Moving the C-block out will effect the toe and the track width as shown in the manual. If you are just coming back from racing don't worry about it too much and just drive it.
09-16-2019, 03:42 PM
#573
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
There is some information missing on the C-block pill setup. The A,B and D are all center insert so you can't get those wrong :-) The missing part for the c-block is whether its 1* or .5* out ... He indicated the d-block was 1* but shows center in the pill position, I will just assume he meant 1* out on the c-block. Moving the C-block out will effect the toe and the track width as shown in the manual. If you are just coming back from racing don't worry about it too much and just drive it.
Can someone give me a starting point on what pinion to use with a 13.5T with the 78 spur? Just trying to get a ballpark idea and then I’ll start checking temps.
09-16-2019, 05:06 PM
#574
Thanks. I actually put the 1 degree blocks in a few nights ago when my extra diff shims came in. Like you, I also figured that’s what he meant. Since it was a very high traction track, not as much toe-in is needed.
Can someone give me a starting point on what pinion to use with a 13.5T with the 78 spur? Just trying to get a ballpark idea and then I’ll start checking temps.
09-16-2019, 08:53 PM
#576
Yeah, I am running the G3 Spec-R as well. I really like it by the way. I was running 22/75 or 23/78 but our new layout requires so much braking it heats up motors really quick so I went to 22/78. So, yeah, in short I would still recommend a 22 or 23 to start with.
09-16-2019, 09:39 PM
#577
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Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 07:42 AM.
09-17-2019, 10:50 AM
#579
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
09-17-2019, 01:44 PM
#580
Most people don't have the knowledge of setup to do this effectively, nor the time to spend at the track figuring it out. I rarely find a "pro" setup to be difficult to drive. They strive for the same things as we do- fast and as easy to drive as possible. I find these setups to be excellent starting points for known similar surfaces. Usually track prep and tires will necessitate minor changes compared to how they ran them at the time they were recorded.
09-17-2019, 05:06 PM
#582
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
Most people don't have the knowledge of setup to do this effectively, nor the time to spend at the track figuring it out. I rarely find a "pro" setup to be difficult to drive. They strive for the same things as we do- fast and as easy to drive as possible. I find these setups to be excellent starting points for known similar surfaces. Usually track prep and tires will necessitate minor changes compared to how they ran them at the time they were recorded.
Speaking of the servo, how are you guys setting up your servo in the mount? Pushed all the way to the top of the mount with no gap at the carbon fiber? Or down towards the chassis? It’s my first kit with a floating mount.
09-17-2019, 07:04 PM
#583
Di_spencer made a good point in an earlier post in that the stock setup is a compromise between dirt, clay, and carpet, when I asked if anyone had tried the carpet setup listed on AE’s site. I was just trying to save myself some time in the initial setup to hopefully get me close to what will work at my local track. If it doesn’t work for me, then I’ll just make changes. Which I’ll probably have to do anyway. I stopped by the track today to grab a pinion and the track layout changed. It’s still small and tight, but watching a guy tonight I noticed that the short straight isn’t smooth. It’s rippled, almost washboard now. So my ride height will probably go up, which means my diff height is going to have to change from where I have it set now to bring the driveshafts back to level. Won’t know until I run it though. Should be soon. I just need to get my hands on 15.5 25 spline aluminum servo horn.
Speaking of the servo, how are you guys setting up your servo in the mount? Pushed all the way to the top of the mount with no gap at the carbon fiber? Or down towards the chassis? It’s my first kit with a floating mount.
09-17-2019, 07:50 PM
#584
Tech Initiate
I just finished my B74 and was binding my radio and noticed the steering in the normal setting was reversed (turn right car goes left). I had to reverse the steering on the radio for it to turn as it should. This is my first 4wd 1/10 scale Kit so I was wondering if this was normal? All my other 2wd kits and 1/8 scale buggy all work as they should in normal. Servo is a Savox Black Edition 1258 TG.
09-18-2019, 02:35 AM
#585
I think we rely too much on the setups of others. Try a few different setups find out what works for you. For example, a pro who is running a mod motor is going to have a completely different set up than an amateur running stock. Plus their driving skills are also going to be different. I have stopped trying to copy the setups of other people, because I don't drive like them and they don't drive like I do. We need to spend some time trying to figure out what works for us.
Even that said a car set up to box stock or kit set up is not that far of a stretch from the Pro set up.Dont overthink it ,I tell people.As long as A driver or builder has some set up knowledge and can Get a Kit set up, the car is gonna work and well.
At best all set ups are slight tweeks off that setting, and not out in Left field somewhere Lol