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Old 01-19-2019, 09:54 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by lazyfortress
One question before I buy stuff on AMain hobbies: What shock oil would you suggest for my front, along with springs?
Consult the setup sheets like we’ve recommended. You’ve been given good advice here, follow it and you should see progress.
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:06 PM
  #17  
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Alright so I bought 42.5 wt shock oil for the front, and 32.5 wt shock oil for the rear. The set up sheets varied from 35 wt to 45 wt shock oil for the front, and 30 wt to 35 wt shock oil for the rear.

I haven't bought any springs yet.

Also I noticed that I run 17.5T stock in the mod class, and everyone else runs anywhere from 13.5T to 7.5T. Not sure how I can make a 17.5T work in mod.

There's also stock that runs on Thursdays, but the track is an hour away, and I can't make that work every week because of school.

Should I switch from a ball diff to a gear diff on carpet? I'm currently using a ball diff.

I checked the set up sheets and suspension guides, and I'll be making a few changes to my set up in the following few weeks once parts arrive.
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:17 PM
  #18  
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Just realized that the Factory Lite is meant for dirt and clay. Is there any way I can make my Factory Lite work on carpet?

I already bought heavier shock oils. What else do I need? Weights?
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Old 01-22-2019, 02:41 AM
  #19  
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17.5 in mod... only driving an using the handy cap system. or inverted starting..
light is light.. adjustments will make it work.

move over to 17.5 stock..
going crazy over setup.. will only drive you crazy..

after last season.. I was asked to move to Mod... running a stock 17.5 SC5M.. 45 truck field. running the out of the manual settings.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Just realized that the Factory Lite is meant for dirt and clay. Is there any way I can make my Factory Lite work on carpet?

I already bought heavier shock oils. What else do I need? Weights?
Gear diff and springs
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:46 AM
  #21  
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Get a setup off of petit or team associated and start there first start there the pros are "pros" for a reason and is always a good place to start , Or talk to a local fast guy running a associated they should be able to help with setup . Dont be afraid to ask most people are happy to help and if there sponsored that is what they are kinda supposed to do anyway . with the s+ you should be closer to 27/75 , 26/72 (somewhere in that range) and 42-48 degrees timing . driving on carpet is very different from dirt also you dont want to "drift" or get loose . What has helped me in every form of racing (besides drag racing lol) is "slow is smooth , smooth is fast" . Meaning focus on hitting your lines and braking points . go a little slower through the corners focusing on the line you are taking . You will find once you get used to taking proper lines and not over driving the car you will crash less and speed will come just be patient it is not going to come overnight .
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Old 01-23-2019, 12:36 PM
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Especially to get the car around the tight corners quickly, you will need to use the brake. On carpet you can slow the car down quickly and accelerate quickly too. You can use this to your advantage as sometimes it is faster to run the shortest inside lines rather than the theoretical racing line designed to maintain momentum. Practice when the timing is on and compare your lap times using different lines focusing on improving one corner for a while.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:58 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Also I noticed that I run 17.5T stock in the mod class, and everyone else runs anywhere from 13.5T to 7.5T. Not sure how I can make a 17.5T work in mod.
If you are able to compete with a stock motor against guys running the mod motors you are using, you'll find that you will be getting better at your driving lines and keeping corner speed up versus them, since you have less power to effectively "save you" when you screw up. They probably are looking at out-torquing you in general coming out of corners. Watch how "slow" they go in those corners versus when they punch out of them. It could be that your line is good, but its that torque they are using on those more powerful motors to get out of there quicker.

You could see about doing some adjustments on your motor relative to timing setting to get a bit more punch, as well as some gearing adjustments. Also, look at what your motor is temping at too, so you are not experiencing motor fade. If they have some guys at your track running stock you can talk to with similar motors, they can give you some advice relative to your track on timing settings and gearing.


Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Should I switch from a ball diff to a gear diff on carpet? I'm currently using a ball diff.
Personally I would look at a gear diff, probably more so out of the fact it should wear better and be more consistent on its settings versus a ball diff. You can make a ball diff work on carpet though, don't think that you can't. Just more work from what I saw maintaining it.


Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Just realized that the Factory Lite is meant for dirt and clay. Is there any way I can make my Factory Lite work on carpet?

I already bought heavier shock oils. What else do I need? Weights?
the fact that the car is a dirt and clay car isn't going to be the true deciding factor in my opinion relative to you getting around the corners faster. Start with a good setup as much as it fits what you have, and see what you think at that point. Having a nice starting point to tune from can save you some headaches hunting down a setup.

I also like the xray setup helpers for the xb2 and xb4 in my binder, it helps to give a quick reference.
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:16 AM
  #24  
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Can’t drive 2wd buggy like 1/8 scale. Brake before turn. Roll on the throttle on the way out. Gotta brake in a straight line. Slow is fast. How many times did you crash? Literally have to get to the point where you don’t crash once in a race before set-up will do much for your lap times. If set-up gets u 20 seconds faster over the length of a race, 2 crashes (maybe even one) will negate that gain. Gotta drive smooth without crashing.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:45 AM
  #25  
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The factory light has the pucks style diff outdrives and axles. If you get a gear diff (which you should for carpet driving plus the pucks system isn't durable for carpet) you will also need the standard 67mm axles.
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RCSteveH
Here’s another link... since I like tanks 😎

https://www.teknoforums.com/misc/Tek...etup-Guide.pdf

Just a F.Y.I. , I also run Tekno (EB48.4) and discovered SEVERAL very wrong setup adjustments and even a couple of obvious contradictions (read ALL of the Camber section carefully and you'll see one of them) that will, at best utterly confuse a novice or at worse, make it impossible to improve the car's performance.

I called Tekno this summer to ask about these anomalies and before I could get started the tech told me to .......... "please ignore that setup guide, it's NOT OURS...we started it but someone hacked it before we had a chance to finish and filled it with their opinions, and now it's on the web. I suggest the Hudy setup guides,or (users.telenet.be/elvo/). I apologize for the inconvenience".

We talked a while after, but that's almost exactly how the conversation started out.
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:19 PM
  #27  
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Being relatively new to racing, try to watch the fast guys run ANYTHING at the track. Watch where they brake, their turn in points, pay attention to their line. I believe one has mentioned going to a gear diff, that will help along with a full carpet setup. A second battery for more track time after electronics cool will be very useful in the coming months too.
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Old 07-07-2019, 02:23 PM
  #28  
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I would suggest looking at the B6.1 carpet buggy and using that setup as a starting point. It will be setup to handle the much higher traction and corner speeds associated with carpet racing.
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Old 07-07-2019, 02:59 PM
  #29  
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Like others said, seems like the new Reedys like high RPMs.. I had the same gearing you do, and went to 27/72 at 38deg timing on the motor can, started getting faster, more consistent laps with lower temps. Tried 26/72 as well, they were pretty close on lap times. Is your motor the Torque or the Spec version? The label on the box should say.

Another thing that really improved my lap times was upgrading from the Justock ESC to the Spec Pro. It really made my buggy faster, quite noticeably. You can also try a negative exponential on steering to make your cornering a little smoother.

But my final thoughts would be don't underestimate the importance of practice. I spend hours a week practicing racing lines only at the local track instead of trying to lower my lap times, and my B6.1 is 100% box setup. I'm on the top half of the A main only practicing to be a better driver
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:27 PM
  #30  
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Interesting no one asked the question “How many times did you crash”? The answer isn’t setup or hop up parts when you’re starting out. If you can’t run a race without being marshalled then you need to slow down, hit your lines, and the speed will come. Adrenaline can totally screw up the way you drive. Gotta be calm. Lots of practice. Unless you’re one of the very few that have god given natural talent, practice is the only way to get faster IMO.
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