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Old 07-26-2018, 08:58 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB7 Thread
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Kyosho RB6.6 to RB7 conversion kit RB66TORB7 from Conversion Kit

Parts included (and updated list for RB6.6)

UM703B Front Bulkhead

UM753-1B Shock plastic parts set x 2

UM760 Chassis

UM761 Front suspension arms

UM762 Rear suspension arm

UM763 Front hub carrier

UM764 Wing Stay

UM765 Centre bulkhead (waterfall brace)

UM766 Universal joint ring

UM767 Wing

UMB06 Body

UMD05 Decal sheet

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Old 12-24-2018, 01:53 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by todb
Just bought a rb7. Plan to run it on clay in 17.5 blinky. Dirtwebs are the tire of choice. Any upgrades that I should do to it? I have no idea what setup to put on it, so I will start with kit setup, unless someone can point me in a better direction. I'm coming from a B6.1. Thanks for all the help.
I use tebos’s setup from 2017 reedy race since I run at Ocrc. For upgrades, rear hubs and steering rack, mainly the drag link is the weak part, but using the arms and drag link together gives your steering slop free movement. If you upgrade your ball studs, tru to use the longer studs(8mm).Helps from pulling out from the plastic.I put B6 5.5mm balls and links on mine for a different look. I wish they made the plastic front tower with the same geometry as the carbon piece.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:50 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin



love that battery brace on mine, if running on clay, you can try grinding off the 2 little tabs on the water fall, so you can slide the battery back a few more mm’s
was considering doing that. My shorty fits very tight and the CF bracket bends on it to seat the nuts on the bracket. Do you feel the battery all the way back is the way to go on clay?
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Old 12-24-2018, 05:07 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz
was considering doing that. My shorty fits very tight and the CF bracket bends on it to seat the nuts on the bracket. Do you feel the battery all the way back is the way to go on clay?
I have the rb6 waterfall on because of that reason, battery all the way back is where I always run mine. That’s the beauty of that battery strap, no foam needed to adjust. Also, if you need more rear traction, take the top screws out the waterfall
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:44 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin

I have the rb6 waterfall on because of that reason, battery all the way back is where I always run mine. That’s the beauty of that battery strap, no foam needed to adjust. Also, if you need more rear traction, take the top screws out the waterfall
still have plenty of steering with battery back?
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Old 12-24-2018, 10:04 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz
still have plenty of steering with battery back?
oh yea plenty
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Old 12-24-2018, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin

oh yea plenty
Good to know. I'll put around in out of the box form, then start adding the upgrades. The only upgrade I really have is the battery hardware at the moment. The play in the steering is just as bad as the shocks. Will try to address that down the road.
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Old 12-25-2018, 06:30 PM
  #142  
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Just finished my build. Car is very light, 1473, although I do still have to add a fan. So I definitely will add some weight to it when i get it on the track. Did not like how the battery area went together. Just odd is all. Used a TLR alum servo horn. Csnt wait to get some track with it.
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Old 12-27-2018, 03:24 PM
  #143  
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Finally got some track time with it. Is really good for me on dirtwebs. Plenty of grip and steering. I still don't like the way the battery is in the car. I run my sensor under the battery and it is getting pinched right where the channel ends in the chassis.I might look at taping it in. The play between the shock caps and shock mount is huge. At least a millimeter or more on all four caps. It is way to much. Diff is really smooth. Very happy with the diff. I really like the body as well. It is really light also, 1483g, with reedy shorty servo, reedy 4800, HW Xr10 stock spec, Schurrspeed 17.5v4, Ti turnbuckles and Ti ballstuds and the big transponder. Overall the car is good imo, but there are other cars out there that cost less, more in the box, more setup help and more after market parts. That being said I knew what I was getting when I bought it and im happy with the car.
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Old 01-05-2019, 06:30 PM
  #144  
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Dose anyone know if the rb6.6 aluminum rear bulkhead fit.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:18 AM
  #145  
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Questions?? Gearing for 17.5 Stock Motor w 76 Spur

Hello,

What pinion do you recommend for a 17.5 motor and a 76 Spur in the RB7?

Thx
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:31 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by JCG1
Hello,

What pinion do you recommend for a 17.5 motor and a 76 Spur in the RB7?

Thx
Depends a lot of track size and motor used. A safe place to start would be 30, but check the temp after a minute or two. You honestly may have to go down to a 69 or 72 spur to get where you want to be. Can only move the motor so far forward.
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:53 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by JCG1
Hello,

What pinion do you recommend for a 17.5 motor and a 76 Spur in the RB7?

Thx
Like the other guy said it depends a lot on track size and motor being used. I know the new motors you gear a lot different then the original 17.5 Motors. I am running a V4 Schuur motor on a 90x55 track with a pretty long straight and I am geared 76/26 and the motor is plenty fast and temps around 125* after a 5 minute run.
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Old 01-09-2019, 01:23 AM
  #148  
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This one I deserved well and truly, but is it common? Just wondering how many to buy before a overseas event
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:12 AM
  #149  
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I have broken a couple of arms no where near as many as the old flat arms but I have had a few shock shafts break and being the only thing broken at times
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:59 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by azeroth
I have broken a couple of arms no where near as many as the old flat arms but I have had a few shock shafts break and being the only thing broken at times
^^ What he said. Def get some spares. Also C-blocks, turnbuckles, rear arms and shock ends.
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