Milkdudd

iTrader: (13)

I think it's a good idea but like I said don't wait too long. If you buy $30 or so additional to get to $250 you can use a $25 coupon at Absolute Hobbyz. The way I look at it, if I was going to buy that other stuff anyway it's like getting the car for $195. Plus they are really great guys that are a pleasure to do business with.

Changing gears, I was able to get a nice selection of upgrades from a terrific forum member here. Actually I have met a couple of really great guys here with Kyosho parts and accessories. For now I was focused on upgrades rather than spare parts but that will likely change in the future. The aluminum steering arms that were part of the package are from the rb6 not the ones specifically for the rb7 which seem to be longer. At least that's what I assume the "L" engraved on them means. Does anyone know how the rb6 arms will affect the handling on the rb7 buggy? Likely the two guys I mentioned will see this here but if not I will PM them

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Excluding price, which one is easier to use? This one or Exotek?

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

This site will pretty much let you know how flat arms will affect the RB7.

Razor RC blog: Team Associated B6 / B6D flat arms vs. gullwing arms

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

Exotek is by far easier to use. You only have to turn the tabs. However, you will have to drill holes in the plastic sides to mount it, if your running the battery sideways. I put foam strips on the outside of the channels to allow a tighter fit. Make sure you put the arms on right-side up. The Exotek is also cleaner because you don't use foam for spacing.

Milkdudd

iTrader: (13)

Thanks that looks like a good read and is pertinent to my buggy build however I was referring to the aluminum steering arms. Maybe I should have used the term bellcranks rather than arms

Milkdudd

iTrader: (13)

Installed my aluminum steering components on the rb7 tonight. Dimensionally they are identical to the original plastic parts. So I haven't had any changes in geometry. The rb7 specific bellcranks are 2 mm longer than the kit versions so those would be the ones to change geometry. I'm glad that by pure dumb luck I ended up with the standard kit geometry aluminum components

M.Boos

The steering bell cranks on the RB6/6.6/7 are the same. The 2mm longer aluminum version UMW752.

Milkdudd

iTrader: (13)

Thanks. I did figure that out but not until I held the aluminum ones next to the ones that came in the kit. Do you know what difference the longer ones make when used on the rb7?

=Arise=

The longer length units are supposed to smooth out the initial turn-in steering from what I can gather.

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone experienced breakage of the factory steering components on the RB7? I heard of the servo horn breaking, but nothing else. I'm curious if I should swap mine out for aluminum.

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

I've only ever used the stock servo horn, never had a problem. On turf, carpet or dirt.

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

Good to know.

Have you ever known of anyone breaking their steering rack?

Milkdudd

iTrader: (13)

Thought thought I saw it happen to a lot of guys when the RB6 was first released. Had them wanting the aluminum one. Might have been a first batch thing because I don't think I ever heard of the 6.6 or the 7 having that issue. I just kind of go aluminum from the get-go. I just have a thing for anodized aluminum in cool colors. Especially the chocolate brown Kyosho color

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

Never seen one break personally, but I have always used an aluminum steering rack, be it Kyosho or Exotek, but have used both aluminum and the stock wiper arms with no problems.

I would go with at least the rack if you can. It will definitely be a more direct feel and you won't have to worry about pulling a ball stud out of its threads.

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

Not sure if they are still available, but the Exotek aluminum C hubs are great to have. The stock plastic ones are the part I broke most often. And you always break the same side...