4LikesTLR 2wd Spec buggy, which one
07-20-2018, 06:57 PM
#1
TLR 2wd Spec buggy, which one
I have bought a tlr 22 4.0 and a 22 4.0 SR roller. I know the SR was built lighter and no slipper but I see guys shedding weight on the non SR to run 17.5. Which is better, I’ll be running on indoor clay.
Thanks.
Thanks.
07-21-2018, 07:29 AM
#2
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Take this with a grain of salt as I have limited Clay track experience because I’m just getting back into racing. My son has a 22 3.0 SR that is very close to minimum weight out of the box and that is with a relatively heavy ESC. His car compared to my B6 with the same motor definitely accelerates better off the corners. At the track I race at some are going back to running a slipper on their cars because I’ve been told that with the LiHV batteries and newest generation motors it is becoming needed to reduce wheel spin. This info was from one of the fastest racers at the track. If it were me I’d get the SR and add a slipper set up to it.
07-21-2018, 08:10 AM
#3
Thanks For your input. I have both right now, was going to sell the SR roller but having a lighter car and being able to place weight where needed makes sense. That’s what I do with the slot cars I race. The non SR I bought from a guy who had a shop put it together RTR and never raced it 😳
07-21-2018, 09:52 AM
#4
You have to be an incredibly good driver for the small gains of the SR to translate into better race results.
Equally, the lighter weight stuff on the SR is much less durable than the stuff in the standard 4.0, which means a very inexperienced racer will break a lot stuff on the SR.
Both cars will produce the same lap times for an inexperienced racer, because the lack of driving ability means you are not getting anywhere close to the performance limit of either car. Basically, unless you can drive to the limit of the standard 4.0, the SR will be no faster. You can't buy your way to the front, you need driving ability to get you 95% of the way first.
I would run the regular 4.0, as it will be able to handle the inevitable beating much better than the SR. I would sell the SR, as it is still a current model. Something else will be out by the time you develop your driving ability enough to need something more than the standard 4.0
This advice is based on my 29+ years racing 1/10th scale electric off-road.
Equally, the lighter weight stuff on the SR is much less durable than the stuff in the standard 4.0, which means a very inexperienced racer will break a lot stuff on the SR.
Both cars will produce the same lap times for an inexperienced racer, because the lack of driving ability means you are not getting anywhere close to the performance limit of either car. Basically, unless you can drive to the limit of the standard 4.0, the SR will be no faster. You can't buy your way to the front, you need driving ability to get you 95% of the way first.
I would run the regular 4.0, as it will be able to handle the inevitable beating much better than the SR. I would sell the SR, as it is still a current model. Something else will be out by the time you develop your driving ability enough to need something more than the standard 4.0
This advice is based on my 29+ years racing 1/10th scale electric off-road.
07-21-2018, 10:09 AM
#5
That’s what my oringinal thinking was after reading about the SR and it being less forgiving parts wise. I bought a (what I thought was 4.0) roller on here and when it arrived it was an SR �� A couple days later I found the non 22 4.0 great deal. I’ve been on the road a lot lately and haven’t put either on the clay yet. I figured I needed to decide which one and sell the other. I guess my ego thinks I’ll be expert in a short period of time �� It’s been 25+ years since I raced RC.
Thanks
Thanks
07-21-2018, 10:39 AM
#6
Tech Addict
The SR has some less durable parts. I would run standard and lighted in with titanium stuff.
07-21-2018, 01:22 PM
#7
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
I disagree on the SR with the parts breaking. They use the same rods and ballends, the same arms and shock towers as the std version. My son is just learning to drive and has several practice days and races under his belt. He has yet to break the car even after slamming the wall a few times at the end of the main straight. The weight reduction is all in the drive train and chassis.
07-21-2018, 03:58 PM
#8
I disagree on the SR with the parts breaking. They use the same rods and ballends, the same arms and shock towers as the std version. My son is just learning to drive and has several practice days and races under his belt. He has yet to break the car even after slamming the wall a few times at the end of the main straight. The weight reduction is all in the drive train and chassis.
But, I guess because your kid has run his car a few times without anything bending or breaking anything none of that matters.
07-21-2018, 04:13 PM
#9
I have a nice roller Xlmracer if you’d like to add to your fleet
It is the composite out drives, aluminum drive shafts, narrowed gears and lack of slipper that cause a problem. There are a lot of people that bend the aluminum drive shafts, so many that TLR came out with steel SR drive shafts.
But, I guess because your kid has run his car a few times without anything bending or breaking anything none of that matters.
But, I guess because your kid has run his car a few times without anything bending or breaking anything none of that matters.
07-22-2018, 08:23 AM
#11
My sr has been very durable. Only one broken outdrive and that is because I didn’t have the plastic ring around the outdrive and I run a certified monster . Very powerful motor. That’s the only part I have broken on mine since the car was released. I can def notice a difference accelerating compared to non sr 4.0
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