39LikesHow much is to much $$$$$$$
07-13-2018, 09:42 AM
#31
[QUOTE=joelm;15258706............ grease on the shocks........winning at all cost comes into play.........Come on leave it alone and drive it...... ....... blah blah blah....... RICH MANS GAME. .[/QUOTE]
If you think money makes that much of a difference, then you don't understand what it takes to be competitive. You are holding on to a false notion. Things are not as they seem.
If you think money makes that much of a difference, then you don't understand what it takes to be competitive. You are holding on to a false notion. Things are not as they seem.
07-13-2018, 09:46 AM
#32
07-13-2018, 11:12 AM
#34
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 17,634
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
The “ claimer” idea has been suggested a few times in different threads over the past year plus. Always has been rejected. What it misses, at least to me, is the time consideration. Sure technically you can put a value on the vehicle. But what about the time spent setting car up, and now having to rebuild to race again. Only to what, do good and have to start over again.
Figure 6-8 to build, depending on ability. For some another few hours in setup. Now try squeezing that into our already busy weeks.
I get the idea. Especially on for low end, entry level class. If a price of say $300 was put on car in total. I theory I should keep cost down. But as been seen with experienced drivers trying to bend rules in what was supposed to be box stock Euro truck, reality is never theory
Figure 6-8 to build, depending on ability. For some another few hours in setup. Now try squeezing that into our already busy weeks.
I get the idea. Especially on for low end, entry level class. If a price of say $300 was put on car in total. I theory I should keep cost down. But as been seen with experienced drivers trying to bend rules in what was supposed to be box stock Euro truck, reality is never theory
07-13-2018, 11:48 AM
#35
The “ claimer” idea has been suggested a few times in different threads over the past year plus. Always has been rejected. What it misses, at least to me, is the time consideration. Sure technically you can put a value on the vehicle. But what about the time spent setting car up, and now having to rebuild to race again. Only to what, do good and have to start over again.
Figure 6-8 to build, depending on ability. For some another few hours in setup. Now try squeezing that into our already busy weeks.
I get the idea. Especially on for low end, entry level class. If a price of say $300 was put on car in total. I theory I should keep cost down. But as been seen with experienced drivers trying to bend rules in what was supposed to be box stock Euro truck, reality is never theory
Figure 6-8 to build, depending on ability. For some another few hours in setup. Now try squeezing that into our already busy weeks.
I get the idea. Especially on for low end, entry level class. If a price of say $300 was put on car in total. I theory I should keep cost down. But as been seen with experienced drivers trying to bend rules in what was supposed to be box stock Euro truck, reality is never theory
I will say this, if that was something you didn't think about and then our vehicle did get claimed, it sure wouldn't be forgotten on the next vehicle
07-13-2018, 12:32 PM
#36
I just got back into this hobby 2 years ago now after like 18 years away. I had no clue how much things had changed and I'm in my 40's now lol. I cant keep up and run at the top I got a b5ml to start out with now moved up b6 t 6.1 and 64 for carpet and dirt. I like working on and tinkering with my cars that is all most the most fun part to me yes I'm a dork lol. I really like going to the track and hanging out with like minded people and just having fun I don't care if I'm top 3 or dead last. It's the people and the friendships made for me.
07-15-2018, 09:15 AM
#37
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Things you need to be successful at racing in descending order are 1. Driving skill 2. Car set up/prep. 3. Proper tire for the track. All of the modern cars are close enough to the minimum weight that very little performance can be gained by dropping a few grams. I once built a Kyosho Ultima 2wd buggy by buying all the high performance/ lightest parts you could get. It had a CF chassis, Ti/Aluminum hardware, MIP transmission. I closely copied the car that was driven by the top factory Kyosho driver who happened to race at my home track. When I was done I had a car that was several ounces under weight. The car would pull wheelies at will so I then had to add a lot of the weight back to make it easier to drive. The things I’d like to see for the current stock class is cost controlled sealed can, fixed timing motors. Back in the day ROAR had cost limits on motors ($25 stock and $80 for mod). Back then the stock motors were sealed and fixed timing. This made for a much more cost effective and level playing field than we currently have.
07-16-2018, 07:28 AM
#38
A claimer class is really just an elaborate control class. People exploit the loopholes in rules, or the rules create too much of a burden to garner interest in the class. These classes fail often because people get burnt out by the rules. Getting the rules correct for a sustainable class is a lot tougher than just saying let's run a claimer class.
07-16-2018, 07:55 AM
#39
You had to buy numerous stock motors to get a good one, and that was just the beginning, right? Before twister and cobra came out with their stock comm lathes, stock motors were still largely throwaways. Sure, you could change the brushes and clean the comm, but eventually the comm got out of round. So, your only choice was to throw the motor in the practice bin, or crack open the can illegally.
Nowadays, 17.5 motors are in reality a lot cheaper over the long haul than old school stock motors. Sure, the $150 motors are probably a little better than the $100 motor, but really most of us don't need that miniscule gain in performance. Even if you decide that you want the blinged out motor, think about it this way.... As long as you take care of that motor, it will last you a season, if not more. No comms to cut, no brushes to change, just a minor cleaning and oil every now and then. You can also sell that motor for a few bucks at the end of the season, and recover some of your costs as well. That ends up being cheaper than buying a handful of motors, several dozen sets of brushes, springs, and having to bring a lathe and soldering iron to the track every weekend. I'll take today's brushless motors over the "good old days" no question.
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