Mugen MBX8 Eco
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c86e7fa154.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3997237687.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...00c7ad5b73.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...20f09a9ee2.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1c3736341f.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...02d14dfa83.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...411efa0180.jpg


Chassis:The MBX8 ECO chassis improves steering and is more consistent in bumpy conditions

.-Differential & drive train:High Traction Differentials are included in the MBX8 ECO. The Mugen Seiki HTD provides increased acceleration, longer runtime, and more consistent handling. The HTD's also increase stability, traction, and improve handling in bumpy conditions. The HTD has a new larger volume diff cup to increase consistency during long main events. This makes it easier to time rhythm sections, better in bumpy and low grip conditions, helps to increase traction, and increases fuel mileage.New straight cut 13T bevel gear & 44T conical gear.
The new straight cut bevel and conical gears increase acceleration, runtime, and efficiency. A free and efficient drive train will also increase speeds while cornering.New plastic 46T HTD spur gear.New front and rear gear box.The new gearbox makes allows you to remove and service the differentials without detaching the suspension arm mounts. Easy access to the front and rear differential.-Suspension:New suspension mounts. The FF/FR/RF/RR are new for the MBX8 ECO

.-Light weight one-piece wing mount:The new lightweight one-piece wing mount lower the center of gravity. The position of the wing and wing mount is optimized to improve the performance of vehicle. The height of the wing mount is adjustable. This allows you to control the down force on the rear of the vehicle by simply raising or lowering the mount on the shock tower.Light weight high down-force wing.The new IFMAR legal wing is lightweight and provides amazing down force and cornering. The underside of the wing uses a new design to reduced weight and creates additional down-force

.-Battery tray and receiver box:The MBX8 ECO's battery tray allows you to position a 4S battery farther forward then with previous models. The receiver box is also new for the MBX8 ECO

.-Other new parts and upgrades:Body, Clamping Servo Saver Nut, F/R Shock Towers, Front bumper, Front center and rear center universal joint.



Should start delivering soon. Let see some posts and pics on how the builds are going.

I thought they all ready have shipping them out

Amain shows stock will be available 5/24 to begin shipping pre-orders. But who knows, that date was already pushed back once.

In stock at mugenseikiracing.com

So has anyone built the new kit yet? Mine arrives tomorrow via Amain.

In stock here https://fiercercsolutions.com/E2022-MBX8E-ECO-1-8-Electric-Buggy-Kit-MUGE2022.htm

Use one discount code and free shipping to the 48 states. https://fiercercsolutions.com/Coupon...upon-Codes.htm

Editable setup sheet
 

Anybody have time to make up an editable set up sheet for the 8 Eco?

What are folks running in their diffs with their MBX8 ECO?

any one run there yet and how do they like it any reviews

Hoping to run mine this weekend. Ended up building the diffs 7/5/3 to start out with, was hoping some others might chime in.

I'm surprised this thread is so quiet all things considered.

My kit should arrive tomorrow. With the kit, I also ordered the Xerun XR8 plus and 1900kv g2 motor. This will be my first ebuggy, I started with the losi 8ight nitro buggy 6 months ago. This will also be my first big race kit. Oh and I also ordered the protek 170sbl servo. I kind of went all out....I cant wait to build this kit tomorrow.

So anyone else not get any specific MBX8 ECO decals for their kit?

Thanks, but looking for an editable set-up sheet. Anybody?

Sorry, gave you the wrong link.. try this: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/mugen/...SetupSheet.pdf

Thank you my friend!

I got a large sheet of Mugen Seiki decals, none of mine say anything else but Mugen Seiki. They look great though.

I am really liking this new buggy. I got my kit in on Saturday and spent the rest of that day building it. Yesterday I gave it a few runs in the parking lot to break it in, and to get my radio setting just right. I had a blast, my new hobby wing Xerun XR8 Plus with G2 1900kv ran so smooth.

This buggy is wicked smooth, and oh so quiet. It's belt drive quiet....it's the silent assassin. This weekend will be the first race with my completely new setup, I probably won't do much assassinating, but I can guarantee you I will be having a ball.

Setup
 

Anybody got a good starting point setup... Maifield, Drake, ect. None have yet to put up a setup, I am sure knowing the kit setup cant be great

I haven't seen any for the ECO. You said "the kit setup can't be great"....most manufacturers spend a lot of time getting the kit setup perfected. It very well could be great. I will see about that this weekend, at a series race. T&T Hobbies, Shreveport Louisiana.

I helped my buddy with his new MBX8 ECO, the box setup wasn't great... The car didn't have enough high speed dampening and chassis slapped off of every jump. We changed pistons to 1.5x5 front and rear with 550 cst front and rear, we added max droop and unscrewed the shock ends 2 turns, we also changes springs but off the top of my head I don't know which springs we ended up using. We then lengthened the rear camber link to the longest setting and the car was much better. I think the next thing we should have tried is adjusting the ackerman the the front hole and maybe try the shorter camber link setting.

I just put my MBX7r Eco setup on it and adjusted the diff oil to 5/7/3, all good.

Just run the kit set up man. They spend hundreds of hours testing set ups, they give you that set up for a reason. Because that's what they feel is best.

Tuning will always be required to get maximum performance for you, on your track. But don't tune anything until you know what you're changing it and why you're changing it! Copying a set-up that was supposedly used by a pro racer doesn't mean it is a good set-up for you or for your track.

(I seriously doubt that those set-up sheets are exactly what racers are running. None of those set-up sheets show custom drilled pistons, but I'm sure the pros are not just using the stock pistons. Just an example.)

Stock is a safe starting point that [should] work [sort of okay] in all conditions.

It's probably best to run the stock set-up until you find something that needs to be changed. Don't go changing stuff just because...

No one setup can be perfect. It's impossible. There is such a wide range of surfaces, track conditions, track lengths, and jump configurations, etc. Loose tracks require different settings from high traction tracks, and these set-ups may be the opposite in some regards. Soft springs vs. stiff springs; high camber link mounting position vs. low mounting. Shock oil changes with springs, AND with temperature.

Tuning is complicated, and it's easier to make your car worse than it is to make it better. So yes, tune the car, but only do one change at a time. Find what works; beware of copying others.

[QUOTE=symmetricon;15248302].....We then lengthened the rear camber link to the longest setting and the car was much better. QUOTE]

Your friend might want to look the car over, the kit setup for the rear chamber link IS the long setting, not the short.

I am going over my new build and I accidentally mixed matched hinge pin inserts, along with a few other setup issues.

Here is my quick paint job to get me to this weekend race.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6ccbe62d5d.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2d65a1eed4.jpg

[QUOTE=slackinoff;15248755]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d551c68f16.jpg

The stock setting is in the middle of the hub... We also switched to the upper hole in the rear hub.

[QUOTE=symmetricon;15248758]
Well shame on me, I see what you meant. I didn't even think about the hub side.

Rm

[QUOTE=slackinoff;15248927]No worries dude. The kit setup wasn't horrible, but I'm sure with time the setups will come in and the car will get even better.

Hello from Slovenia!
I'm a new member on RC Tech.

Im testing my MBX8 Eco for the past three days. I started with stock setup which was too lose on the back, so I did some changes. Most of the changes are based on MBX7r Eco
which I have been driving for the past three and a half years.

Congratulations, what kind of setup changes did you do? I have been testing my new MBX8 Eco since last Sunday, tomorrow will be the kit's first race! I am excited.

Rm

I changed shock oil from 550cst to 450cst in the back. Went from 2,7 to 2,6 sway bar, longer camber link, higher roll center on the back tower, moved the battery pack to the rear position, put on 20g heavier wing.
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My only gripe with this kit is the rear wing stay mount, the plastic piece that holds the 4 nuts for mounting the wing. The plastic is so flimsy that all four of the nuts spun inside the plastic before they are fully snug. I eventually just ditched that piece and just washers and nuts.

Has anyone tried to fit the radio tray, motor mount, and battery tray from the MBX8 onto the 7r? I would prefer to have the ability to move the battery further forward if possible. If the newer motor mount works, I would rather have that as the other mounts have been discontinued. Also the radio tray was slightly updated as well.

Thx!

He said he did this.

I wrote this in another thread but I wanted to share here.


1st race report: The buggy is quiet, very smooth in steering and driveline, and precise. ( My only other experience is with a nitro 8ight, so hard to compare). Kit setup, pro-line calibers when track was damp and loamy, then a switch to aka doubledown as the track became more grooved and polished. I was mucking around checking my ride height noticing something was being difficult ( dramatic change after runs, collar adjustments not doing much ). I first thought it was my shocks getting pumped up or something, but it was actually a bind in the front suspension. The pillow balls became a touch tight, causing some bind. I backed off the caps on the uprights a small amount until the got free again, that fixed it right up. Checking rideheight is an easy way to get a barometer on your car. I did forget to put an upper shock nut on for my first main....so that was a disaster, but it happens. I learned a lot and had a great time.


I have been disassembling the buggy when I have time this week so I can check over everything. This is a pleasure!, what a joy to work on this buggy. The design and fit is so nice, all the bearings fit perfect, yet still come out without a big fuss. I want to check on the diff fluid and see if the initial running produced any "break in" contamination. . I am really enjoying the buggy.

One question...
How did you guys build diffs? Did you build it as Drake suggests?
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