DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Yup

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I'm picking up a YZ-4 SF to run 13.5 spec. Are the must have hop-ups? Also, what is the RTR weight?

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

what you see above is all I have done for 13.5. I did get TI screws, turnbuckles and ball studs but I dont think those are needed. Also trying the plastic BD8 diff gears.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

She’s a fatty like 1750 plus. It’s an athletic fatty though like a NFL Lineman...

The bd8 gears work great and are a good move for 13.5.

psycho02

iTrader: (14)

Don’t you worry about that. Your ex girl is getting a 5.5 for Valentine’s Day.:-)

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Plastic diff gears; aluminum diff pins, titanium screw kit, titanium turnbuckles, titanium ballstuds, XR10 Pro Stock Spec Speedo, 3900mah LCG shorty, LW Body or reg XB4 body will get the weight down right around 1600 actual 10g to 18g under. Fella’s SF weighed in at just under 1600 with the above mentioned. Add some chassis weight behind the motor to balance it out and your over 1600g.

I have yet to weigh mine which I built with titanium screw kit, titanium turnbuckles, Ti ballstuds, however it’s going to be a good 22 grams heavier as I am running steel gears with aluminum diff pins. Actually more as I have a CGDiff installed.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Id be about 1640 with a LCG battery but it seems guys are adding weight in the back anyway. Still might get something lighter to balance it out left to right. Also thought about going back to an Evo style wheel up front to calm the steering down a bit and lighten it up

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Yeah lots add a bit of weight out back via lipo weight and stick on chassis weights. I have 20 grams running up the side of the rear chassis brace motor side. Honestly I do not worriy about cutting weight however that’s just me as I know peps that really love to cut weight. Great thing about this hobby is one gets to do what they want. Agree I like the EVO fronts as they do calm down the steering. 10 degree casters will calm the front down. I just threw some on recently and the extra 2 degree helps while not over mellowing out. On another note it appears that JCON is soon releasing the F2 or S2 body per the SF. Not sure if it’s the F2 or S2

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I guess it’s the F2 body JCON is releasing

mes

That's what their teaser looks like!

blwaz23

Anyone run a Motiv 13.5 in their yz4 sf? Wondering what gearing to run. If not what is everyone running for gearing with 13.5?

blwaz23

Thanks for the pics. Could I get a link to the crush tube if you don't mind? Also are those a bunch of shims in front of the tube behind the bearing?

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Not sure if your Motiv is high rpm or high torque. Most 13.5t motors have a suggested FDR per 10th scale 4wd buggies of 6.5 through 7.5. The newer high rpm motors require a higher FDR (higher rpm(KV) higher FDR)

To figure out your FDR take spur gear size divided by pinion gear size hence take that number and multiply by the vehicles IGR (internal gear ratio) 2.5

Example: 84t spur divided by 29t pinion = 2.89 Multiply 2.89 by IGR being 2.5 = FDR of 7.24

Endbell timing plays a role depending on how much your running thus speedo settings do as well. In general use the FDR formula above as it will get you dialed in close to were u need be. Remember with lots of the new 13.5 motors some are super torque and some are super high rpm. EX Tekin 13.5 Spec r is very high end hence requiring one to drop down pinion size a few teeth.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Not sure when Yok will have optional Slipper spurs and CGDiff spurs. See peps using other spurs per modified slipper hence 80t/28t, 78t/28-25 etc. The 84t slipper spur has been working well for 13.5 thus not optimal but good enough for many until more are released. If you build a CGDiff you can use the XB4 center gear diff spurs, hence you have some smaller spur size choices.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

I got the crush tube from Jackie at OCRC so im not even sure what kind it is. Yes its just a bunch of shims. sorry not a lot of help here! lol