Rear Toe - Slash
#1
I have a question about Rear Toe-in.
What's a general good starting spot? I'm building a slash conversion with the TRX-272R trans and it has almost 3deg rear toe-in with the Bandit rear arms I'm using. Does this seem like too much? Most of the build pics from an eyeball look like 1deg~ish
I see a couple of options out there from STRC to reduce the rear toe from the stock 3deg to around 1deg but it's not adjustable (and Alum). Pemberton RaceWorks has "The Final Answer - BANDIT Edition" adjustable rear arms, but they are 70$ (and out of stock). another option is from CW racing as well for adjustable arms. If I can use static arms it'll be less of a hit to replace when the car eventually takes a hit (haha..) and I typically stay away from aluminum parts when I can.
Also out of curiosity does anyone know the stock slash arm length (2555) vs. drag slash arms (2750A) vs. bandit arms (2750R)?
Looking to let my fingers do the walking before I order a bunch of parts I might not need. (I'm also running the PL Reaction+ which is the main reason I'm not suing the stock slash arms, they are too long to tuck nicely under the body when the suspension is compressed).
Thanks!
-jmike-


What's a general good starting spot? I'm building a slash conversion with the TRX-272R trans and it has almost 3deg rear toe-in with the Bandit rear arms I'm using. Does this seem like too much? Most of the build pics from an eyeball look like 1deg~ish
I see a couple of options out there from STRC to reduce the rear toe from the stock 3deg to around 1deg but it's not adjustable (and Alum). Pemberton RaceWorks has "The Final Answer - BANDIT Edition" adjustable rear arms, but they are 70$ (and out of stock). another option is from CW racing as well for adjustable arms. If I can use static arms it'll be less of a hit to replace when the car eventually takes a hit (haha..) and I typically stay away from aluminum parts when I can.
Also out of curiosity does anyone know the stock slash arm length (2555) vs. drag slash arms (2750A) vs. bandit arms (2750R)?
Looking to let my fingers do the walking before I order a bunch of parts I might not need. (I'm also running the PL Reaction+ which is the main reason I'm not suing the stock slash arms, they are too long to tuck nicely under the body when the suspension is compressed).
Thanks!
-jmike-


#2
I like this question because it is a perfect example of how the RC world makes up problems to find solutions... for a price.
Rear toe on the 2wd Traxxas models is built into the arm mounts on the transmission. Rear toe on the 4wd Slash is built into the hub/axle carrier. 4wd Slash hubs fit the 2wd models, swap them left to right to almost cancel out toe, resulting in .5-1° in.
Or yeah, get those fancy adjustable toe arms for the same price as a new motor
Rear toe on the 2wd Traxxas models is built into the arm mounts on the transmission. Rear toe on the 4wd Slash is built into the hub/axle carrier. 4wd Slash hubs fit the 2wd models, swap them left to right to almost cancel out toe, resulting in .5-1° in.
Or yeah, get those fancy adjustable toe arms for the same price as a new motor
#3
I didn't know the slash 4x4 hubs would work on the 2wd arms. That's a way cheaper fix.
RPM Slash 4x4 Rear Bearing Carrier Set (2) [RPM80732] - AMain Hobbies
Something like this run opposite will remove the toe. Nineball I owe you a beer saving me 60$ on "adjustable arms"
RPM Slash 4x4 Rear Bearing Carrier Set (2) [RPM80732] - AMain Hobbies
Something like this run opposite will remove the toe. Nineball I owe you a beer saving me 60$ on "adjustable arms"
#4
I guess it's an old dirt oval trick. There is a lot of unadvertised parts cross-compatibility.
I do know the traxxas aluminum ones are labeled L and R. It would be silly if the stock 1952's or RPMs would be any different from the 1952A's but I can't see an L or R in those pictures.
I do know the traxxas aluminum ones are labeled L and R. It would be silly if the stock 1952's or RPMs would be any different from the 1952A's but I can't see an L or R in those pictures.
#6
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1
custom works arms is your best bet or the 0degree arms from drc and their transmission is an awesome upgrade . I just updated my anza build with an r1 and a maclan 4pole motor can’t wait to go testing!
#7
Replacement arm RPM for Bandit shorter arm for drag car, and have good warranty on parts. As for toe-in, look into Hot Racing Aluminum Trans, or Composite Gear box. 5 years ago, I converted Slash 2WD to on-road. Using HR Alum gear box. It also brought toe-in .5-1deg.









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