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Tamiya Toyota Hilux Libyan Technical Pickup
Ok so finished up that bruiser build but I am real excited to get this build going. So an individual approached me to build them a Toyota Bruiser body. They also said the magic words "tell me what you want to do". Well I have been batting around a few ideas recently and this will give me the excuse to do one of them sooooooo
Tamiya Toyota Hilux Libyan Technical Pickup Build! Toyota Hilux bodies have been modded so much but I don't think I have seen anything like this before so I am excited to do it. For those of you that don't know, during the Libyan war (or any African war) you will see a ton of Toyota's and other pickups modified to have mounted machine guns on them. They are common place in today's battle field. Recently with the Libyan war you saw them all over the place. As a vet and a history buff I love building pieces that tell a story. So here are some pics of the design I am going to go for: This is a dodge but the idea is the same https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...640/110380.jpg Here is a Toyota all loaded up https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...91/HILUX+2.jpg Here is a scale 1/35 model that is made my Meng https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...google.com.jpg Going to have all sorts of markings and the Libyan flag on it but really weathered to look like it was hand painted. Now of course the machine gun. Well it wouldn't be a Technical without one so I am going to scratch build an SG43 Russian Heavy Machine gun into the pickup bed. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...40/kpv01_1.jpg Going to be a lot of fun! |
Ok so right now just waiting for the body and lights to come in, but that doesnt mean we have time to sit around. Lots of custom stuff on this build so we need to get a design together to strat measuring and ordering material.
To do custom build I like to follow this work flow. 1. Gather reference materials and measurments 2. Create rough decal designs from photos 3. Create rough scratch design from photos 4. Mockup in 3D 5. Layout parts for schematics 6. By required materials 7. Create paterns for scratch parts 8. Assemble Why so much? I follow this method because it keeps waste down. Also I can save the paterns that I make incase I want to recreate the next scratch build. The next time will always be faster. If you do the old eye ball and sand method, which trust me you will be doing enough of already you run the chance of wasting material and if you want to make the same thing again you are starting over. So I already have a premade 1:1 scale layout of a Bruiser body minus the rear sleeper. Not sure if I will use it or not right now. So I layout my graphic decals in Adobe illustrator in 1:1 so I can just print them onto water slide paper. I don't know what any of it means, its from an Arab phrases font. Hopefully doesnt get me in trouble lol. If someone reads arabic and they see something crazy please tell me Also stuck in some grafiti USA, like one of our boys spray painted it on there, had to give a little nod to the red white and blue! ;-) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2---Decals.jpg if you are wondering what the Blue door is, I am going to make one door a diffrent color like it was replaced. Also I take my photo reference of the SG43 so that I can begin a trace https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...---Tracing.jpg This doesnt have to be perfect, we want it simple. The tracing should give the major shape and be done using simple shapes that can be passed to any cad program or right onto paper. If you make the tracing over complicated it will not scale well. I make all of my plans 1:1 in scale. That way if I want to measure something I can just hold it up to the paper. Tomorrow I should have the 3D muck up done hopefully. Stay tuned. |
Ok next part is to make our model a 3D mockup. Now some people are thinking, "This doesn't help me I don't own CAD or 3d software" So two things, you don't need to do this part, you can easily go old school and just use your schematics, and you can make schematics in any illustration program. Yes it will take longer, or you can get a simple CAD program for pretty cheap.
I have the tools available to me so I use them, the 3D mockup lets me see how everything fits together. Does it even look right? When comparing it to my photos did I make my scale assumptions generally correct. The 3D part lets me quickly verify this before I begin building and doing layouts. So taking my vector sketches I basically extrude the components in the 3D app. For my work I use Autodesk Inventor, but it is down to what you are used to. Try to keep details to a minimum, you are just looking for glaring issues with proportions and scale. It should take you an hour or less if you are used to the app, if it is taking longer than that you are getting to detailed and your layouts and patterns will be to difficult to use. So this is how the SG43 turned out https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...hine-Gun-1.jpg Now an isometric view of the SG43 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...hine-Gun-1.jpg So we kept it pretty simple, using broad geometric shapes that we can easily trace to plastic from our plans later. I see some errors on the trigger I will fix but the proportions look good especially since the only reference material I used was a photo and Overall length and barrel length. Without schematics we are always guessing a bit, just because it says Barrel length is X doesn't mean that is the visible Barrel length. Also many weapons have multiple variations and overall length may listed in Wikipedia or somewhere else may include a butt stock. So its all educated guessing. Now the real test to see if it looks OK on the truck, we are going to slap it onto a bruiser mockup I have from another project. Also I am going to use this as an opportunity to set my mount height. I haven't been able to find a reference to that besides photos so we will have to wing it. Side View https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y...-Mockup--1.jpg Isometric view https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...mockup---2.jpg So I am pretty confident by our mockup I can begin the gun layout for the parts. Some edits will have to by made but I think the scale is right on. I had to guess the width of the SG43 but I was able to eye ball it based on the barrel profile and assuming diameter. So detailed plans and patterns as well as a shopping list is up next. By the way I will start proofreading my posts a bit more, damn I have some terrible spelling and grammar |
hi hexnutracing.... nice project u have here....
just an input regarding the decals... the phrases on the blue door and also on the rear side panel are 'Allah' which is the muslim's god's name... i think it would not be appropriate to have that on as it can be deem disrespectful... the flag is nice... i don't know bout the other phrases... sorry, if u are offended but these militants normally use religion as a tool to justify their acts and to gain followings.... regarding the gun... how bout using those rc tanks gun so that u can shoot BB bullets... would be nice eh? |
Originally Posted by suchap69
(Post 11231296)
hi hexnutracing.... nice project u have here....
just an input regarding the decals... the phrases on the blue door and also on the rear side panel are 'Allah' which is the muslim's god's name... i think it would not be appropriate to have that on as it can be deem disrespectful... the flag is nice... i don't know bout the other phrases... sorry, if u are offended but these militants normally use religion as a tool to justify their acts and to gain followings.... regarding the gun... how bout using those rc tanks gun so that u can shoot BB bullets... would be nice eh? |
SG43 Layout Drawings!
Now we move on to the layout, but before that I made a slight change to the decals. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...2---Decals.jpg Now since we created our 3D model we can pretty easily create our layouts. When I make my laout drawings I try to add as many dimensions as I can without clutering it up to much. Also since we are working in 1:10 scale you should print your drawings out at the size you are making the model. That way you can just check sizes on the plans. Isometric View https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...-Isometric.jpg Top View https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...7-Top-SG43.jpg Side View https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...-Side-SG43.jpg Handle Detail https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...G43-Handle.jpg I will have to make some on the fly changes to the handle, but the layout is pretty solid. No not all details are there. That's not the point. The point is to make something that generally looks like an SG43. All the details and fine tuning will be added in the finishing stage. You won't find styrene in exact sizes for this build so we will be making a bunch of custom pieces, but that's the fun. Those parts have been ordered so just waiting for them to come in, but I have plenty to do besides the SG43. The Tamiya Bruiser Body, and lights have arrived so while I wait for the Styrene, I can start on that. This build will be dirrrrty! Lots of weathering, but the weathering has to be more desert than dirt so more oxidization and dust. Not much rust. Hopefully some pics soon. |
So let's get the build part of this started, no more planning fort the time being.
First up we have a standard Tamiya Bruiser 2012 Toyota Hilux. Nothing special to see here. This beginning part is going to be pretty basic. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...3/IMG_9493.JPG I bolt the body together but also put a bit of CA in there to keep the fit tight and reduce the rattling. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...3/IMG_9494.JPG This body is going to fit the default mount points on the bruiser so no crazy putty work this time. Make some clean snips of the molding material https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...3/IMG_9497.JPG Then we start the sanding process and get all those nasty mold lines off this great body https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...3/IMG_9499.JPG Finally I use some rubber bands to squeeze the bumper separation and then this time I am using ProWeld to plastic weld the joint together. Should make for some non putty seems https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...3/IMG_9500.JPG Still getting used to using the welding solvent with the touch and flow applicator. But after using it I may be hooked. The applicator may be slightly a mute point with 1:10 scale but it may be a god send for 1/35 and 1/72 stuff I like to do. Ok more pics soon, sorry but every build begins with the basics! |
Ok so body is all cleaned up, now to begin the painting. Yes I know the body is all white, but we all know that if you don't paint it, it always looks like plastic. Sooooo I airbrushed it a flat white.
Man airbrushing on white to white can be a pain to ensure you have good coverage, but I didn't want to use a different color primer and risk that bleeding into the white. I guess we will know if I made the right decision based on the result. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...3/IMG_9501.JPG Now we aren't going to use chrome wheels so we have to get rid of that. The body is going to end up mounted on a bruiser. It is going to look crazy MadMax with those 2.2's. But I will also mock it up on standard 1,9's for a more scale look I have seen a million methods for stripping chrome but for me Super Clean De Greaser from Walmart works great. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...3/IMG_9503.JPG I put the wheels in a Chinese food Wonton Soup container with the Super Clean covering them. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...3/IMG_9504.JPG Then 15 minutes later all naked! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...3/IMG_9517.JPG After that I wash them in a good bath of Dawn dish soap to remove all the residue. All done for now. Next up the windshield treatment. |
Ok now moving from the body for one second lets take a look at that windshield. If we are going to get the right effect then we have to weather the wind shield.
First step we have to measure the windshield base. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...4/IMG_9505.JPG The using my other bruiser body I measure out the location of the windshield wipers https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...4/IMG_9506.JPG Using those measurements I use adobe illustrator and make a template that reflects the proper arc with the windshield. I use that to make a paper template. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...4/IMG_9508.JPG That paper template I then transfer to a frisket film that is placed on the windshield https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...4/IMG_9509.JPG Now I start the airbrushing first. Really light misting of the tan over everything https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...4/IMG_9510.JPG BRB have to do something and I will post the other half |
Ok so continuing, you want to do some light passes with the pressure low to get the sand effect
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...4/IMG_9511.JPG Now to make it more realistic of a finish I need to add a different texture. Sand and mud is not uniform. So I put a paint brush into one of my jars and sop it up a bit. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...4/IMG_9512.JPG Then I pull back the brissles so the paint gets a light splattering. But this paint is going to be thicker and provide us a different texture. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...4/IMG_9513.JPG Then when you are done and everything is dried, you peal the mask off https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...4/IMG_9515.JPG A once clean windshield now looks properly dirty. More posts tomorrow! |
Flat body has been sprayed and windshield done, so now lets get back to some of the body details.
First lets get those Red Yota letters going https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...4/IMG_9534.JPG Not my neatest work, should have gone slower, but I will touch it up later plus I think the weathering will correct my poor O's Now I wanted to add one blue door so that it looked like the door had been replaced. I am using the same Tamiya blue as the bruiser to highlight this trucks roots ha ha. So I mask the area off and use shopping bags to keep the over-spray down. I might have been paranoid but it is a white body so any over-spray would be obvious https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...4/IMG_9523.JPG I made sure that I didn't do a great job of the airbrushing so the tones were uneven. That way the paint look pretty battered. The result looks great even before more of the weathering. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...4/IMG_9539.JPG Now a full shot to show the Yota and door, and the black handle and grills https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...4/IMG_9537.JPG A little closeup of the door https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4...4/IMG_9542.JPG Its just starting to come together now. |
Quick detour now to the interior.
I am going to do the same interior mod that I did in the last bruiser build. insetting the main dashboard. Using care go and cut out the dash https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...4/IMG_9518.JPG The carefully cut out and begin to glue the a new dash board from a piece of styrene. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...4/IMG_9519.JPG If you have an gaps after adding it, you can fill it in with classic green putty and sand afterword. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...4/IMG_9520.JPG Now for the floor of the interior, in my last build I used modeling flock to give it a carpeted look. This time I am using my imagination and thinking a modified fighting vehicle is probably taking a pretty decent beating. So it calls for a diamond plating floor. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...4/IMG_9521.JPG I airbrush this guy silver and then get ready to mount it into the interior after painting. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...4/IMG_9522.JPG More pics soon of the interior, I also have my decal sheets printed and ready so almost decal time. |
Ok so dashboard work is complete. I painted it a nice Matte black and then mounted the diamond plating
https://plus.google.com/photos/10863...17493515015906 Then I put the decals on, and can you believe it I mounted the stinkin console upside down again. I think at this rate it is going to be my trademark https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...4/IMG_9525.JPG I also tried to add a decal that was the Arabic word freedom in red spray paint, but with a clear decal sheet the red just didn't pop https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...4/IMG_9533.JPG Might mask and spray it |
So looking back diamond plate may have been a bit to nice for a technical, but I don't want to rip it out.
So to complete the interior I finished up the steering wheel in all black https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q...4/IMG_9590.JPG Then I used a tan acrylic paint mixed in with water to begin a brown wash https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...3/IMG_9595.JPG After letting it dry the interior had a muddy water effect https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...3/IMG_9596.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...3/IMG_9599.JPG |
Quick detour now to the interior.
I am going to do the same interior mod that I did in the last bruiser build. insetting the main dashboard. Using care go and cut out the dash https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...4/IMG_9518.JPG The carefully cut out and begin to glue the a new dash board from a piece of styrene. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...4/IMG_9519.JPG If you have an gaps after adding it, you can fill it in with classic green putty and sand afterword. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...4/IMG_9520.JPG Now for the floor of the interior, in my last build I used modeling flock to give it a carpeted look. This time I am using my imagination and thinking a modified fighting vehicle is probably taking a pretty decent beating. So it calls for a diamond plating floor. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...4/IMG_9521.JPG I airbrush this guy silver and then get ready to mount it into the interior after painting. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...4/IMG_9522.JPG More pics soon of the interior, I also have my decal sheets printed and ready so almost decal time. |
Now I am just finishing up the steering wheel
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...3/IMG_9590.JPG Then to make the interior more rustic I apply a thin wash of acrylic tan watered down https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...3/IMG_9595.JPG It really gave it a dirt vibe even though black can be very hard to weather and still look like fabric. Metal is easy because you can use silver https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...3/IMG_9596.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...3/IMG_9599.JPG |
Ok now onto the decals. this will really make the model pop and start to make it look like out actual modeling subject. The decals I created using adobe illustratr which you saw in the first parts of this build. Sizing was done by using the mockup drawings that I made and then superimposing them inside of Illustrator. I thne use a laser printer to print them on clear Laserprinter Sheets from decalpaper.com
The one that will catch everyone's attention is the Libyan flag. The bruiser roof is not flat, and the decal is very large, so after soaking it in water I transfer it over to the body, then blot it. Finally I begin to brush on Micro-Sol onto the decal https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...3/IMG_9540.JPG Micro-sol is a light acid, sort of like Vinegar but without the smell and residue. This causes the lacquer in the decal to slightly separate and then allow the decal to sit into the grooves of the roof. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...3/IMG_9543.JPG You then need to let the decal dry for a while. To speed up all of my drying times I use a very small for your desk size space heater to slightly speed up the process. Once the decal is completely dry and I mean COMPLETELY, I grab a super fine grit sand paper and begin to lightly sand it. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...3/IMG_9547.JPG This will make the dull white underneath begin to show through and age the decal as if it was spray paint beginning to where off of the Toyota Hilux. This is exactly the look that I am going for. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...3/IMG_9548.JPG After you may have to wipe it down with a cotton ball to get rid of the white residue and some die that comes off of the decal. |
A few more pics
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...3/IMG_9543.JPG This one shows the rest of the decals added https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z...3/IMG_9545.JPG Looks like our boys spray painted the good old USA on there! |
Obviously our body is just way to clean at the moment, even though we have sanded down the decals we still do not have the look that we are looking for. So first I want to give the truck a good dark black wash
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...3/IMG_9551.JPG Not only does it help with the panel lines but it also brings down the overall white color of the body. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...3/IMG_9555.JPG Next we have to add some texture. Not exactly the easiest thing with a material like sand. But I did find some photo references on youtube that had a bit more of caked on mud. To create a texture that will stick I take spackling paste and blend in the brown/tan paint. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...3/IMG_9559.JPG Then using a hard brissled brush I begin to fleck the paste that we made across the body, keep in mind common places that mud may collect. Splattered up along the wheel wells, on the grill and so on https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...3/IMG_9561.JPG As long as we don't get to large of a glob we will not have to worry about the spackle coming off of the plastic |
Ok back in business weekend is over so now more pics and more progress. Plaster/ Paint combo has completely dried so we can now enjoy the full effect of our weathering.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...4/IMG_9563.JPG You have to make sure that you have the right combo of parts already on the model or else you won't get the realistic splattering and mud build up that we are looking for . But I think this came out rather well and the Hilux body is starting to actually look like something from the desert. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...4/IMG_9571.JPG The white body washes out some of the details because the camera is slightly over exposing it, but it still looks great and in person even better. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...4/IMG_9573.JPG With the pictures you also miss the finer detail of the black wash. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H...4/IMG_9578.JPG I really fell in love with how the windshield came out. So next we stick the interior in and begin lighting this guy up. I know everyone wants to see the machine gun build but that is going to be towards the end. ;-) |
So we have to color in those lights now. This is going to be a quick post. If you need more details you can check out my Tamiya Bruiser Build
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...4/IMG_9581.JPG I ask out the edges using Plain Masking tape for the airbrush Then to fill in the color I use Acrylic paint mixed into future floor polish to make sure the lights are translucent. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...4/IMG_9582.JPG I am spending way more time masking these because the light set I am putting in includes reverse lights. So I want to make sure that they actually show up and hopefully don't catch to much of the red brake lights https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...4/IMG_9583.JPG Final installation is going to be a bit different because I want to experiment isolating the light color too https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...4/IMG_9584.JPG |
If you remember I talked about how this build had an extra set of lights. So I want to make sure that they do not bleed into each other. I have never really done this so we are going to try a new idea. I am going to use some styrene to seperate the reverse and brake lights
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...4/IMG_9585.JPG First I measure it out a bit to see if I can get most of the space filled in with a divider. Then I cut it down with the Table saw mount I built for my dremel. I love this thing I post the link for the instructions if you want. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...3/IMG_9586.JPG After glueing them together I add a bit of green putty to finish off the last gap. Now we are ready to mount them up https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...3/IMG_9587.JPG |
Very Awesome Build, I stumbled across this thread looking for on road Tamiya cars, Im gunna take some of your Ideas and Put them to use on some onroad bodies!
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Sorry for the delay on my posts guys, just had a project I had to work on techy related.
That makes me happy! Spreading the RC Gospel lol Some people have been asking about the Dremel Table saw you can find out instruction on how to build it here from instructables, the guy who did it did it did an awesome job. It works great. http://bit.ly/X9cjaT Just got my self an actual mini table saw because Micromark had a sale so I will convert the table into a shaper. |
So now I am working on the final portions of the lights.To mount in the lights from the kits I have to install some light buckets to hold them in securely. One issue that I had is some of the light fixtures stuck through the back so I had to grind them off.
http://www.hexnutracing.com/wp-conte...n/img_9588.jpg Then similar to the same way that I built the light wells in the others I had to measure out the size. http://www.hexnutracing.com/wp-conte...n/img_9589.jpg Like before I knew that it was going to take two pieces of styrene that I had to then glue together and clamp. http://www.hexnutracing.com/wp-conte...n/img_9591.jpg Then I drill the holes for the lights.You have to measure them just right so that you can get the LED's in there pretty tight but not crack them. http://www.hexnutracing.com/wp-conte...n/img_9602.jpg You may be asking why did you drill the holes after?Well I had to because it was just to hard to get everything to line up.Better take your time if you use this method because the opportunity is high for you to break something. |
Ok time to put the lights down for a second. Now we are going to start the build part that everyone has been waiting for. The machine gun. This is where it was so important for us to have proper drawings so that we don't struggle with the scale. If you are off scale buy a hair things can quickly start to look ridiculous.
First we grab a strip of Styrene. Surprisingly I couldn't find a styrene block or something similar in size to the body of the machine gun. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...chnical3-4.jpg To bad I wish evergreen made them it would have made my life a lot easier. So instead we are going to have to cut the lengths then stack them together To get the proper width it is going to take a about 3 pieces. This time I am going to bond them together using MicroMark Same Stuff, this solvent type is known by a bunch of other names as well. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...chnical3-1.jpg Then we start the tedius process of sanding the thing down. I lock it into a vice and then us a Dremel detail sander to start slowly bringing it down to the right size. Make sure that you keep measuring it up to the drawing to maintain the proper width. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...chnical3-2.jpg Ok don't bust on me to hard about those edges. I really spazzed in the cutting. I had my daughter bumping into me. I just got a small miniature rip saw so that should make life alot easier going forward. |
Ok so to clean up the edges on the machine gun I add some putty which makes them smooth.
http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9490.jpg Oh yea jumping around for a sec I forgot to add a pic of the wiring almost complete http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/IMG_9603.JPG Now with my completed and smooth main body I start to add the top plastic components to keep adding to the shape. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/IMG_9604.JPG Basically this is making a ton of sanding! And measuring the smaller parts is tedious http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/IMG_9605.JPG |
Ok so now I have to cut out more pieces to match the size of the drawing. I used to do this by hand but luckily I just got a new saw. Makes pretty short work and cleaner edges than what I did before.
http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9606.jpg Everything that I used on the machine gun had to be 2 pieces thick to make it fit properly. A major pain and meant lots of solvent and lots of sanding to make it seamless http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9607.jpg http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9608.jpg I am cutting the front muzzle flare/break out of a larger pieve of styrene evergreen rod. But I don't have a lathe so to give it the cone shape I am using the drill http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9610.jpg Then spinnning the drill while using sandpaper and sometimes a file to slowly shave the rod down till I have a cone. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9611.jpg |
Ok so after running the barrel flare with the drill and sanding it I was able to get a pretty uniform cone end that I could mount onto the barrel.
http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9612.jpg Because of the design for the barrel I thought it was best for barrel pieces to be split into three parts. To increase the strength though I am drill into the main part of the machine gun and recessing the barrel into it http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9613.jpg After using my dremel drill press attachement (which isnt exactly the most accurate) I was happy to see that the first segment of the barrel was pretty square. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9614.jpg I did the same thing with the lower gas piping. Incase you didnt realize that this is a gas cycled machine gun. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9615.jpg Doing this portion reminded me how small this thing is |
Guys sorry for the lack of updates but hurricane sandy messed me up good. I just got power on last night thank god. I am in NJ close to the coast so it was a bit like the stone age with people fighting for gas and crap. I had a generator but there was no cell service and no internet. Thank god I am a bit of a survival nut so no major damage.
So lets get back to assembling this gun. Next part up is for me to create the handle assembly. I start off by measuring and gluing together two pieces of styrene to create the rough shape. http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9616.jpg Just to make it even edges I use the mini table saw to start really shaving it down http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9618.jpg Then I use the dremel to cut some guide holes to begin cutting out the center portion and create the top assembly http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9621.jpg Then I use a micro chisel to knock out the center piece http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9622.jpg And now we have the finished top assembly! http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9623.jpg |
this is a fantastic build! great work!
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Thanks man!
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Ok guys so the basic shaper of the main gun assembly is done. Doesnt look that bad for the base shape.
http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9630.jpg Also this is the completed handle assembly http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9631.jpg |
I normally just read on the Rctech forums but this build I had to say something. That is a impressive build and skill set you have. I am looking forward to seeing more of this.
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Thanks man, I am glad I can bring out the lurkers ;-) I am about to post some more pics
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Ok so now I have to add the top part of the 1/10 machine gun receiver body. Once again I have to combine multiple pieces of styrene and then sand them down
http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9634.jpg Now I go back to my plans and cut out the templates for the side groove configuration and vents http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9635.jpg Making sure that my plans were in 1/10 scale made it so much easier to build the physical model http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...img_9636_0.jpg The I airbrushed through the template to give me the guide marks to begin chisseling out the grooves http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...g?i=1116703438 And here is the completed rough design of the 1/10 scale machine gun that will be mounted on the Tamiya Toyota Hilux Body http://www.hexnutracing.com/rc-image...n/img_9638.jpg |
this is a awesome Build Cant for the finished project!!!!!!
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So close yet so far to being done. You know the devil is always in the details
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Great build and updates, looking forward to seeing the finished products.
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Wow, Awesome, simply amazing....just wow! :nod:
I stumbled upon this thread like many others, and it's amazing looking at all the detail and attention you have put into this project. Can't wait to see more updates Steve |
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