Ok guys, I just ordered an Axial SCX10 RTR Kit, and was wondering what are the best/most reasonable batteries t o run, also, i was thinking about upgrading some, so was wondering what the top 3 upgrades OTHER than the esc and motor.
LMK, All advice would be appreciated! TY

either lipo or nimh should be fine but i found out some people like nimh to give a bit of weight to the truck.

upgrades, u can start looking into alloy links, alloy shaft and shocks.
axial alloy links should be enough for the truck, as for shaft u can use 3racing, junfac, or mip alloy shaft.

shocks, depending on how high u want the truck to be u can change it to any alloy shock depending on the length of it.

best uprgrade is loosing the plastic links and doing better tires i got proline tsls on my with axials aluminum link set also the servo and esc

I have no idea why people spend money on "Upgraded" shafts just to keep the set screw BS. Convert to the Wraiths "Pin through" diff inputs, and trans outputs, and Maxx driveshafts, and never have an issue again. I am confident I will make it 100 runs with this set-up with no visible signs of wear other than scratches on the d-shafts.

You have never ran with us...we deal in high traction rock and high horsepower motors, keeping the pins in is NOT our issue, we actually twist the stock plastic shafts into pretzels and break the ears off. Running in our area DEMANDS metal shafts period! Buy MIPs one time and NEVER worry about them again, not after 50 runs, not after 100 runs, not after 500 runs.

ive ran a ttc rig with summit trans and holmes 10t puller with maxx shafts never spun one. the maxx shafts are stout for plastic if you do the axial yoke mod they bolt right up with no slop. ive had wheels wadded up in holes bad enough that ive had to move rockes to get it out and never spun a shaft. the axial shafts and small traxxas shafts on the other hand come out like candy canes

OMG, You guys are so hardcore! I have all driveshaft issues solved, not just one of the three like you mention. Have fun spending your hard earned money solving only 1 of the 3 known issues with the driveshafts! LOL! "You have never ran with us..." I literally "laughed out loud"! Good times.

Well, I solved my original issue- I bought an RC4wd trans, re aligned my driveline-pinion angle and put MIP's in it!

Which trans did you end up using? I really want to use the dig trans as a 2/4wd transfercase, and possibly even the 2 speed! I was getting ready to order the Vanquish product Dig kit for the same reason, but it utilizes the old set screw method, and my truck is converted to the new pin-through design. It could be modded, but I just don't want to mod a kit I am paying that much for (Same issue with most, but not all of the RC4WD R2's). Any pics of it in your truck?

LOL I guess it is funny....because I have no other driveshaft issues

Many people snap the factory trans outputs, and have set screw issues as well. Maybe you guys arent running as hard as you think.

The only upgrade needed is replacing the stock drive shafts with Traxxas Stampede or MIP if you don't mind the cost. The Traxxas uses the same yokes as the Axial so it's less than $10 and solves the driveshaft breaking/twisting problem. If yours is an RTR you may wish to replace the lower links with stronger ones either store bought or homemade. The gear cover is a nice item.

The stock shocks work well but have very little bling value.

OTC steering looks cool but messes up the handling.

Buy what you need to complete your scale build, it will never be a comp crawler so don't waste money trying to make it one. It rock crawls pretty good for a scaler.

the factory output shafts were replaced with steel units when the truck was new...but that was a tranny issue in my book...and threadlock cures any set screw issues

I guess if you don't run too hard, threadlock would be fine.

It's fine even when you run hard, especially then.