Axial RBX10 Ryft!
 

Anyone else got one?

Here’s mine

https://i.postimg.cc/J4jrJWhc/EB3-A8...0-EA51-AF7.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/prbNXpKN/A6-BEB...3-E94-B531.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/63K8g7nb/B144-D...-A816487-B.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4N52PsNv/416316...6-D78-C156.jpg

Ive also added reinforcement tubes to the axles

https://i.postimg.cc/htP5N07W/3-F065...0-E1-EB603.jpg

Plates to the trailing arms

https://i.postimg.cc/N061j2Lh/83-C17...B504-ED5-E.jpg

I did run the truck a few times completely stock, but only on 3s, I had no issues really, but I did manage to bend a shock shaft...

https://i.postimg.cc/qM0rqHy4/2-BC86...-DCDC4-FCB.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/X78by1kF/AEDF25...C3-A254386.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/0N1xnHZZ/BBB5-D...-B6-D2-C78.jpg

I wasn’t a fan of the stock electrics in slightest, the servo was weak and was made even worse by the terrible servo saver, the motor and esc cogged like crazy and lacked any real control or finesse, the radio was normal Spektrum junk, I did sell it all and it paid for 2/3rd’s of the Castle combo and HH servo

Also I’ve refilled the diffs properly with 500k, added 10mm limiters under the shock pistons and gone 25/50wt with the shock oils

https://i.postimg.cc/zX1bncrX/04-AE0...A50-A5-F73.jpg

I have one but waiting for 3s battery to run. How did you fit longer motor in? Looks like motor hits trailing arm if go more than 2-3 mm longer than stock? What tubes did you put in axles? Thx.

Any broken axles yet?

I made the axle tubes myself out of 3/8 od, 1/4 id aluminium tubing and machined them to fit, so no axle breakages so far lol

Thx. How did you fit 74mm can? Did you file down trailing arm support or did smaller pinion raise motor and give you clearance?

I’m running a 13t pinion and it sits ok on the link mount, but rubs slightly on the rod end, so i shaved about .5mm off it

Great. Thank you.

For people wondering, battery tray dimensions are 140x40x40.

What batteries are people using? I'm having trouble finding lipos that fit battery tray. This is another fail on the vehicle...especially since it easily could have been more standard sized.

Dp

3 or 4s?

3s.

There is one for sale local for $300 debating wether to get it.

I’ve got some Zee 5200mah 80c 3s and a Gens Ace LCG 4000mah 50c 3s that both fit

At that price it would be hard to say no, looks like horizon are restocking the sorted axles now anyway and everything else wrong with the truck is just standard rtr stuff :)

Made up a sway bar from a cheap rr10 kit I found on eBay, it needed a longer torsion bar, longer drop links and some bushes to go in the chassis mounts

https://i.postimg.cc/8CRMms6R/59-A3-...70-C47-FE1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Vkbj5KsH/DDA59-...46-D98-BF8.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Bv92F2XZ/EBE604...-AE6192453.jpg

And a quick vid I made talking about the upgrades I’ve done, I forgot to mention the axle tubes and trailing arms braces though.....

I picked an orange one up. My first bouncer/crawler type RC. Always been 2wd offroad. First thing I did was change receiver to Sanwa, did run a couple batteries with stock motor and ESC, it sucked when you are used to sensored motor ESC. Changed the servo to a Reedy 1508 until my better servo shows up and did away with the servo saver. Have a XR8SCT and 3660SD motor coming tomorrow for it. Can't wait to see how much better it is with a sensored motor ESC. I am just going to run 2s shorty packs since I have a bunch of them for racing. So far 2s didn't disappoint. Did make a lexan roof to protect the roll cage. I been running on asphalt and concrete for lack of anything else and the cage was getting scent up good.

New to this. I would like some high ground clearance trailing arms for it. I do not know what would or wouldn't fit from other Axial vehicles.

Will be watching this thread to learn all I can.

Took mine for its first run with the upgraded electrics and sway bar, I’m well happy with the performance

https://i.postimg.cc/sXnpS05N/1-C617...DD47-E53-C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/B6ZTjGPF/079-A2...-A9-D279-D.jpg

Vid on the way

I got the XR8SCT and 3660SD motor installed and that really smoothed it out. Sway bar on like posted in this thread. For crawling 2s with the punch set low on the ESC is real smooth and controllable. With the 3s batt in it and punch set to 7, it will pull the front tires and track straight. Also added a 500oz .08 speed servo with no saver. Makes a big difference. Dropped gearing to a 14 tooth pinion as the ESC motor on 3s is 44,000 RPM vs stock motor ESC on 4s being 35,000.

Been pilling up logs/firewood to crawl over. Planning on going to a friends crawler course and hill climbs next friday to put the Ryft through it paces against their crawler/ rock racers and a couple other Ryfts that are still stock.

Having alot of fun with the Ryft as my first non racer. I turn the EPA down and my 4 yo son is really like it. More than his race SC truck.

Got to take the Ryft out against some guys climbing ATV/SxS hill climbs. Walked up a couple climb way easier than a stock Ryft, 2 modified Bomber's, 1 Yeti, and a Rock rey. Another hill I made the highest staying in the right lane. Had a ledge 80% up the climb. I started hitting it with speed and jumping on up. After the 4th or 5th time my Ryft bounced high and landed on its side and snapped the rear axle. Have extra axle housing on the way. The front is the one that breaks alot and I end up breaking the rear one. lol Had Jcon scorpions for tires and they was really hooking up well. Can not wait to go back out. I got the bug, have parts coming to build a DB48. lol

Finally got needed batteries. Ran 2s and several 3s packs. Installed rear link plates, axial sway bar, filled up diffs and shocks, and put 15mm limiters in rear and 10mm limiters in front shocks to lower it some. EDIT - DONT RECOMMEND REAR LINK PLATES.

Heard HH is warranting axles and have updated them for weaknesses. EDIT-GOT A AXLE WITH NEW PART NUMBER AND NOT SURE IF POSSIBLE BUT MAY BE WORSE THAN ORIGINAL.

I think its super fun. After my exo terra, promised i'd never get another Axial so hope this is better.

Thinking about 2 spd mainly because never had 2 spd before.

Received my rear axle housing week before last. Started to replace it and the the set screw in the universal stripped. Had to drill it out and ruined the universal. Also found out the slider for the rear drive shaft had fell out when the axle housing broke. Put new axle housing together and it had a real tight spot, pulled it back apart and found short side axle bent slightly. Had to order axle set, drive shaft set, and universal set. Got those this past week. Took Ryft out for a little run on a dirt pile and about 5min in the left side lower control rod end broke at the chassis. The one with the angle. Had a straight rod end from a sway bar kit and switched to those. So Ryft back together. Looking at the rod ends, AE's 1/8 scale rod ends will fit I believe. Going to order some and see. From racing ebuggy and truggy I know they are tough. Got the bug so I built a DB48 also. Playing on the dirt pile it work good, can't wait to get out to some hills again. I have the Tenacity DB Pro cage mounted, waiting on body panels for the cage for it. Hoping to go out this weekend and hit some hills.

For bashing, servo needs more power and servo saver is lousy. Been fortunate that no issues with radio binding but it really needs end point adjustment as wheels hit trailing arms at full lock.

I was having trouble jumping it, but turned drag brake to zero and huge difference.

Glad you did not tear much up.

Got to go back to the hills I broke my Ryft on. Was able to make the hill I broke my Ryft on one time and no one but me made it all the way. Made it with my DB48 multiple times also. Did not break anything on the Ryft, but stripped 2 cheap servo horns, put a AE horn on the servo and no more breakage. Took my DB48 along also and once I made the hard hill with it one time, I was able just to run it up and down the hill like running laps. Other climbs the Ryft made easy the DB48 would not think about. DB48 has to have some speed and momentum, so on technical climbs the Ryft was better. I do not have near as heavy oil in the diffs on the DB48 as the Ryft. So it diffs out and loops out to easy.

I picked up a set of Treal axles :flaming:

https://i.postimg.cc/4N0fcyc2/958-A6...B690-DA1-C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/T2CYRC36/BA93-A...A13-C5-A90.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/m2kZhCPF/CA301-...30-E033-BB.jpg

very nice. Looks like you got the full Treal treatment. What do you think of the treal parts?

Excellent, ive run their parts on other models before and never had any problems

I will check them axle housing out.

Started breaking rod ends. Bought some AE RC8B3E rear camber link ends. Had to mod them a bit to fit, have them mounted and hope to try them out today sometime. Will report back if they last better than the stock ones,

I’ve broken a couple of the bent ones on the front links, I just replaced them with straight ones and they have been ok since

I did that also, but then started breaking the straight ones. A friend broke the bent one, changed to a strait and broke the new straight one with in 10min without a bad crash. The RC8B3E is made out of better plastic in my opinion, race grade vs RTR grade. Have not got to take my Ryft out since I changed the rod ends.

Good to know. What is part number of AE rod ends you're using? Thx.

Team Associated 81399 RC8B3 Rod Ends 4 mm. To make the rods short enough I had to cut the rod end down where the rod threads in. I cut like 1/4 off. I had to buy 3 sets to do the whole Ryft. 2 in each pack are of set, I put them on the lower front rods to gain a little ground clearance. Other 2 offset ends I put on rear rods at the top of the rear axle housing.

Fitted the 2 speed kit to my truck, I left out the shift fork guide rod as recommended to me and the shift works like silk

https://i.postimg.cc/8cdBQyNx/07-CE4...4-DA912-D9.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ZY6Ldqpj/DB3957...EB5-F7-FE4.jpg

Ive spent ages setting the end points on the servo and even checked with my temp gun to make it doesn’t fight the end points and overheats, fingers crossed it lasts longer than 10 mins :D

You use the balls out of the stock ryft arm ends.

For what?

For the RC8B3E rod ends. Just use the balls out of the stock Ryft rod ends.

Who is making hop ups for the Ryft?
I know of Treal and Vitavon and looks like some random Chinese ebay companies but not sure who else. Even Axial hasn't really released any.