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Element Enduro Builder's kit
04-02-2020 | 06:30 AM
#1
Element Enduro Builder's kit
Figured I'd share my pandemic project. Picked up the Element Enduro builder's kit some weeks ago with a bunch of factory upgrades. Been some time since I built a trail truck, and this one peaked my interest enough.
I wanted a Class 1 tire. So Pro-Line's BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM3 sounded pretty good. I'm second guessing my decision to be cheap and buy the Element Bronze wheels. I tried applying a flat clear coat to hide the swirls to no avail.
White lettering is a must on a nice set of BFGs. This took a little patience. I've done it to a few vintage Tamiya buggies. Tried using one of those tire pens. That was like trying to scribe a fine line with a jackhammer. So I broken out the Proline lexan paint, and a fine paint brush. Some hours later this is the result. I'm ok with it.
The IFS conversion was the biggest reason for purchasing the Endure. Really peaked my interest. It built very easily with no manual issues at all. It assembled very nicely. Love the fact that it has spiral cut gears. I did purchase the FT steel pivot ball set for this kit. The thing about the SCX10s that killed me aside from the Rubbermaid flexy plastics was the plastic suspension balls. Decided to take care of that right away this time. Went together without any of the typical AE ball cup issues I've read about in any of their other kits. I really wanted to use a Tekin servo since they are really powerful and butter smooth. Budget would have been blown out of the water so a cheaper, almost as powerful Sävox SW-1210sg was it.
Chassis built is what I guess it typical of a trail truck kit. Two rails and a bunch of cross braces. The included braces are of the "soft" plastic, but are still harder than what was in the SCX10 kit I built years ago. No issues here other than me installing the battery tray brace in upside down because I'm a fool.
I didn't take any pictures of the diff and link assemblies. Mostly because the night I decided to continue with the kit I just stuck my nose back into the assembly manual without paying attention. I assembled the front diff and all of its links only to remember I had the IFS kit.. idiot. So the next images are of the electronics and finished chassis. Went with Tekin's BXR, and T35 HD brushed motor. Figured the size of the BXR would allow me to hide it in the RX box, then I thought about temperatures. Decided that was not going to be a good idea. Did my best to keep wiring as neat as possible and used what I've learned on all my Kyosho 10th scale offroad builds. Less is more. I also purchased the FT spur gear plates, and 6mm steel hexes. I don't feel that the plastic spur gear plates and hexes are a good idea to use since those two things will more than likely be under a bit more stress than most things. Unwittingly I also ordered the Machined Driveshaft parts not realizing the Builder's kit came with them. As stated earlier, I'm an idiot. lol
Distractions, distractions... She always likes to hang out and provide comedy while I build kits or wrench.
Fitting the Proline Chevy Colorado ZR2 body. I did need to trim back the Enduro inner fenders wells as the Colorado is rather narrow. It looks like the tires will contact the body. To my surprise they don't, at least in the rear. Front is a different story. I'm thinking of purchasing a set of bronze Vanquish wheels and taking advantage of their different offset SLW hubs to try and bring in the wheels a little. It looks pretty badass with them sticking out like that though.
On to paint. Wheel wells are painted with Proline Black. Painted them on both sides to give that plastic look like an actual truck. Notice how much narrower the wheel wells are to fit the Colorado body.
Painted the Shapeways head and tail light buckets after finishing off the body. Body is painted with Proline Pearl Green, and black. Black is painted on the outside and finished with Proline flat clear. Tail lamp lenses where shot with Tamiya TS Clear Red. I figure the body is thick enough it will be fine. Unfortunately I neglected to mask off the reverse light section.
I wanted a Class 1 tire. So Pro-Line's BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM3 sounded pretty good. I'm second guessing my decision to be cheap and buy the Element Bronze wheels. I tried applying a flat clear coat to hide the swirls to no avail.
White lettering is a must on a nice set of BFGs. This took a little patience. I've done it to a few vintage Tamiya buggies. Tried using one of those tire pens. That was like trying to scribe a fine line with a jackhammer. So I broken out the Proline lexan paint, and a fine paint brush. Some hours later this is the result. I'm ok with it.
The IFS conversion was the biggest reason for purchasing the Endure. Really peaked my interest. It built very easily with no manual issues at all. It assembled very nicely. Love the fact that it has spiral cut gears. I did purchase the FT steel pivot ball set for this kit. The thing about the SCX10s that killed me aside from the Rubbermaid flexy plastics was the plastic suspension balls. Decided to take care of that right away this time. Went together without any of the typical AE ball cup issues I've read about in any of their other kits. I really wanted to use a Tekin servo since they are really powerful and butter smooth. Budget would have been blown out of the water so a cheaper, almost as powerful Sävox SW-1210sg was it.
Chassis built is what I guess it typical of a trail truck kit. Two rails and a bunch of cross braces. The included braces are of the "soft" plastic, but are still harder than what was in the SCX10 kit I built years ago. No issues here other than me installing the battery tray brace in upside down because I'm a fool.
I didn't take any pictures of the diff and link assemblies. Mostly because the night I decided to continue with the kit I just stuck my nose back into the assembly manual without paying attention. I assembled the front diff and all of its links only to remember I had the IFS kit.. idiot. So the next images are of the electronics and finished chassis. Went with Tekin's BXR, and T35 HD brushed motor. Figured the size of the BXR would allow me to hide it in the RX box, then I thought about temperatures. Decided that was not going to be a good idea. Did my best to keep wiring as neat as possible and used what I've learned on all my Kyosho 10th scale offroad builds. Less is more. I also purchased the FT spur gear plates, and 6mm steel hexes. I don't feel that the plastic spur gear plates and hexes are a good idea to use since those two things will more than likely be under a bit more stress than most things. Unwittingly I also ordered the Machined Driveshaft parts not realizing the Builder's kit came with them. As stated earlier, I'm an idiot. lol
Distractions, distractions... She always likes to hang out and provide comedy while I build kits or wrench.
Fitting the Proline Chevy Colorado ZR2 body. I did need to trim back the Enduro inner fenders wells as the Colorado is rather narrow. It looks like the tires will contact the body. To my surprise they don't, at least in the rear. Front is a different story. I'm thinking of purchasing a set of bronze Vanquish wheels and taking advantage of their different offset SLW hubs to try and bring in the wheels a little. It looks pretty badass with them sticking out like that though.
On to paint. Wheel wells are painted with Proline Black. Painted them on both sides to give that plastic look like an actual truck. Notice how much narrower the wheel wells are to fit the Colorado body.
Painted the Shapeways head and tail light buckets after finishing off the body. Body is painted with Proline Pearl Green, and black. Black is painted on the outside and finished with Proline flat clear. Tail lamp lenses where shot with Tamiya TS Clear Red. I figure the body is thick enough it will be fine. Unfortunately I neglected to mask off the reverse light section.
Last edited by Knockoffracer; 04-06-2020 at 06:02 PM.
04-04-2020 | 06:14 PM
#5
I'm going to say no, I have not seen nor have I read of anyone having an issue with the driveshaft angles. They are of a ball, pin, and socket design, and what little I have driven mine(basement crawling) there has been no binding, or squeaking to talk about. Extremely smooth drive train, and QUIET.
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