syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

VTA really is the best choice, used touring cars are cheap, lots of people already have them, and you can use the cars in regular sedan classes if you decide to go that route.

That said, you guys will rue the day the TA05 came to your happy little VTA party!

al dente

i really like the idea of adding weight to the better drivers cars to keep them in check. i forsee a run on lead weights for xray owners. if anyone is going by hobbytown, give me a call, i need a body, wheels and tires. 303.564.6677. i will gladly repay you at the track.

flatusboy

iTrader: (42)

oops

flatusboy

iTrader: (42)

Ill be going by there today, since I need to get a servo horn for that ragged '09 I got last week.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

If someone could buy the rest of the lead weights at Hobbytown for me, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need them.

Okay, so seriously though, where's the best place to look to know what wheels/tires I should buy, and what bodies are available to me?

Also, is any 21.5 motor okay? Can I use an LRP TC Spec on profile 1?

flatusboy

iTrader: (42)

From USVINTAGETRANSAM.com

Body Specifications:
Late '60s to early '70s American pony car Vintage Trans-Am bodies only.

HPI part numbers:

17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro

Parma part numbers:

10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:

PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang

Body provided deck lid spoilers allowed (not wings). No additional skirts or raised/extended wings or air control surfaces allowed. Body must be trimmed at body trim lines. Full rear bumper required. It is highly preferred that bodies are detailed in race type livery in period-correct paint schemes. Fluorescent colors, wild graphics, chromes and non-period correct paint schemes are frowned upon. All cars should have a number on the hood, both doors and trunklid. Wheel covers of any type are NOT allowed.

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 front and #4797 rear, using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860 are all legal wheels.

Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed.


Colpar had a few bodies earlier this week, may have a few sets of wheels/tires left as well?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

When we first started VTA we institued a "success ballast" formula much like you're proposing. We added the weight of a NIMH cell to the top three finishers at each race because with the 4-cell formula all TC's had room for two unconnected cells as easy to apply ballast, THEN they had to hit the lead. The key was that instead of slowing the cars down exactly the opposite happened. The missing aerodynamic downforce was being replaced with good ol' gravitational downforce. The cars continued to gain speed PLUS they were obvious winners in any fender rubbin' contest. We had our series leader's car up over a pound of additional weight (mine was just under a pound) before we abandoned the idea as "great idea, too bad it didn't work".

An idea that might take a little more thought/preparation would be to institute something we used VERY successfully in a slot car racing series. We added a dropping diode (half volt or so iir) to the power feed of the top three finishers. Finish top three again and you scored another diode, etc. Penalties "dropped off" after three weeks so the most you could "carry" was three diodes. Not sure EXACTLY how you'd do this on an RC but I'm thinking you could put them directly in the pos. battery lead.

Gatherin' stuff like mad for our trip to Minot for their 2-day this weekend. Pretty sure we'll be seeing the new Advance speedo in use there as we saw one un-named racer from there advertising he'd pay $500 for one...

al dente

syndrome - no speedos with timing advance.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Did the TC Spec advance timing? I thought that didn't start until the SPX came about. Either way, I've got a GTB in a buggy somewhere I think.

al dente

its just gonna be for the better if everyone is on the same page. gtb's are easy to come by and easy to use. wait till you guys have to glue these tires. what a cluster f%^k.

we need tyo stat pushing this outside the club, let the guys at westy know, get a flyer out. do something. we had a very light turnout last night and i am scared from what i see.

T3

I was curious to see what combinations are working well for you guys running in vintage with the 26mm or 31mm options. Same all around or mixed front and back etc.?

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

No problem, works for me. I'll get the stuff ordered soon.

I think last Thursday's turnout was a record for that night, so maybe there's a bit of a lull (and the bitter cold and crappy weather). I think we'll see things pick back up after the holidays.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Actually, I don't think there's any options on the tires, just the wheels you mount them on. At least in the official rules, which I think we're following in that regard.

"The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 front and #4797 rear."

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

26mm wheels and tires are for the front and 31mm wheels and tires are for the rear.

If you buy the Satin chrome or chrome wheels sand all the chrome off where the tire will glue or they'll fall apart when racing. Basically the chrome overcoat peals off under stress.

Man this is going to fun even thou I'm not looking forward to putting a GTB in my car after running a MMP.

I haven't seen any argument about putting static timing in the motor so I'm assuming this will be allowed?

FYI, as noted earlier only the Novak ss21.5 and Ballistic motors are allowed in VTA. Other people have tired the LRP and Trinity motors and they suck anyway

al dente

we have decided to let any 21.5 in the class (as i have to run trinity gear) lol

static timing will be allowed.