I'm intrested in finding out what type of techniques people use to charge and dis-charge their 3000mAh battries.

Charge rates, discharge rates, how do you store them, that sort of stuff.

Well here is what i do with my 3000's

PreCharge: Prior to charging my cells, i dischage and equalise on a tray with a 5.4v cut off, this is only done on the day of intended use.

Charging: 5.0amps (i use a Novak Mellinium Pro, but i do not use the NIMH2 mode, i use the NICAD mode with a .12 cut off.) I recommend 6.0amps for stock.

Storage: After each raceday i put 1000mah minimum back into each pack. So this means during storage my cells are stored with a minimum of 1000mah. Now if two weeks have passed since a pack was last used i again put 1000mah into the pack just to be sure that the pack is not stored flat.

notes:

1. storing the packs with change ensures the pack stays as close to new as possible.

2. on average my 3000's charge to +3300mah, anything less is not optimal.

3. storing the packs flat, decreases run time!, increases voltage.

4. packs that have been charge even 2 hours before a race will not perfom very well, the voltage drops in a short space of time. (i like my packs to be charged max 20mins prior to race start)

5. i have been using the above methods for quite some time now, all of my packs are in very good condition and well and truly meet the demands of pointy end mod racing!

Thanks BK.

This would explain why I never been able to get run time in Mod.

Is the Nicad mode on the Pro the same as the Nicad mode on the original Milenium?

The method I herd, that prompted me to start this thread was:

Charge at 4amps
Discharge 400mAh
Repeak
use
discharge to 5.4v
charge 1000mAh

This is very different to what I've been doing:
Charge at 4amps (night before)
Repeak 10mins before race
discharge to 5.4
rack every 10 runs.

anyone else?

Since we are on the topic of battery charging...

I purchased 2 new expensive 2400s for my starter box.

4 Questions :

1. Should I slow charge them for the first time - if so how and what amps/discharge
2. What amps / discharge should I use to charge them the night before an event?
3. Because they'd only get charged maybe once a month - should i completly discharge them to a particular voltage and leave them flat?
4. I have the option of 2Amp or 10Amp discharge on my charger - which shall I use?

Thanks

charging at 4amps is your best choice (10amp for discharge), if you ever discharging them before charging, bring them down to 5.4v.

Because the 2400's are Nicads, you should store them flat if they are to be stored without use for more than 2 weeks.

Thanks.

You mean if I store them for over two weeks, discharge them at 10amps until there voltage drops to 5.4v? Silly question, when discharging can they fall below 5.4v?

Also, for my first charge, should I charge them straight away at 4amps?

Mate you can abuse them as much as you like. Charge them at 5.5 amps discharge them at 20 amps. People have been doing this for years and the packs are still in good nick. First charge just go for it. I can show you a 1700 pack that would have to be four years old that still accepts 1900ma into it. Just make sure you discharge them to 5.4

Even MiMH are not that scary. I treat them the same as nicd's and still make time with a 8turn. SMC recomend to charge them at 6amps for mimh.

Coxy.

just wondering why you chose 2400's over 12volt gel cell,as 12volt is around $40-$50 and charger is around $30 and the power and time it lasts is far superior

Me have a 12V gel in my Mugen box.

Just got a Serpent box, will only fit stick packs

novarossi, don't listen to a sponsored driver! They dont pay for battery packs so don't care if you screw yours up!!

I wouldn't trust a hobbyx driver as far as I could throw them !!!!!

In the US maybe, I can only think of two people who would get battery packs for free here is OZ. One is the son of the importer the other works for an importer and has been associated with for probably 15 years at a guess. Even then I still wouldn't call it free - they still have to be payed for.

Dragon that is a very big call about hobbyx, i have known greg and ari for over ten years, and i also know all of the people that are sponsored by them. I have never known any of those people to give bad advise. BK also would also have to be the most sincere person in this sport, in modified racing you do not treat your packs harshly as we are after run time not voltage, and generally the lower the amp rate the longer the run time.

While i am not a sponsored driver by hobbyx nor anyone else, because of the time i have been involved in RC, i have seen many importers come and go, and hobbyx are one of the best at provinding stock to make things available and also at a decent price, i can rattle off a couple of other importers that HobbyX put to shame.

I suggest if you wish to make those comments let everyone know who you really are.

dragon26, you sound like a "special" driver!, pls elighten us with you own, honest ideas. Although you probably race off road and only have old 1700's for which to draw experience from. you race in Victoria no doubt?

BTW: be man enough to reveal you name.

My name is John Caval, I have seen sponsored drivers come and go. Much of the info they pass on is to promote their product which most of the times is inferior that is why drivers need to be sponsored to push the product. If hobbyx is such a great company why didnt they chip in for the vic titles ? They were asked for $100 and said no. (I hope they enjoyed the phone call from orion in sweden)

you must be kidding about decent price, talk to stock drivers and see how much a stock motor is going for. Oh sorry I forgot sponsored drivers only pay 1/2 or less.

blacky- you know absolutely nothing of me, I don't only have old 1700 to draw experience from I am currently using most types of cells.

HobbyX are the best at supporting racing in nsw.