Yokibear

Leaving the excess flashing on the shell gives you something to hold on to while tipping and rotating the shell as you paint.I've tried both ways and after a few finger smudges always trim afterwards.

blown sv

iTrader: (10)

can someone let me know what a GOOD airbrush is, that will do the complete job, and where to get it i want one for xmas of my wife

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Locally a shop in Minchinbury sell everything you need. If money is not a problem. The link below

http://www.airbrushshop.com.au/shopm...=Airbrush+Kits

I got my airbrush overseas as I save atleast $150.00 so I got mine in Ebay. The Iwata HP-CH seems to be the best value. It cost me AUS$250.00 delivered and comes with a few extra bit You can buy an Airmax Compressor for under $200.00 in Hobbyco. You will still need paints and another $100.00 to cover for hose, water trap and other bits.

TomB

iTrader: (10)

yep $600 gets you ready. the HP CH is used by a few pro/ hi end painters such as shop ufo, it is a good brush. and the pressure adjustment knob on the brush is a priceless feature. it allows you to use a el-cheapo compressor, even the big noisey gmc 2hp compressors from bunnings without a problem of worrying about excess pressure.

Mavrik

I highly recommend the Iwata HP-CH Mac Valve airbrush, smooth to use and is the best airbrush I've used for fine line work. Try "Lewis online" store on ebay, approx $250 landed rather than the $400 you would pay here. The other thing you might want to look at is what paint medium you will mainly use, (Acrylic or Laquer based) as using the same brush for all paints, can end up with blockages and premature wear and tear. I personally use 3 brands, Iwata HP-CH Mac, Passche VL Pro and Apollo Richpen 112b all good but the Passche is probably easier to get spare parts for through your local hobby store.

I hope this info helps in your choice of brush

Cheers Mavrik .

SSS Racing

iTrader: (6)

Hi all,

Am going to try painting a new shell using Parma Faskolor with an airbrush. Last time i tried this paint it did not really take to the body shell. Made sure that i did not put too much on each coat, and with plenty of time to dry between coats. Even after drying for days you could easily put a scratch in the paint. I ended up backing using a tin of Tamiya paint which helped reduce the amount of paint being taken of.

Any ideas or suggestions. Anyone else have this problem?

Thks
Ryan

TomB

iTrader: (10)

order of operation;

1)wash body with detergent, and scrub it (like washing a plate) with a wire spong
2)rinse well
3)paint
4) dry each paint coat with a hairdryer
5) always back when finished the entire body with either a sealer coat of tamiya white, pactra white (the can versions) or with pactra airbrush paint white

done

hav_lova

iTrader: (4)

After painting a body i like to wait a day before mounting it i find the paint is usually really soft for a while after

SSS Racing

iTrader: (6)

Thanks TomB

Yeah i did all of the above with the exception of scrubbing the body with a wire spong. Then backed it with Tamiya white which helped to prevent the scracthing. The Parma paint just never seemed to bond with the body from the beginning as well as Tamiya paint does.

Anyhow will try the wire sponge and hopefully it helps. Thanks for your advice.

Cheers
Ryan

Z-Mann

i use spaz stix surface pre- prep (90059) seems to work fine

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Airbrushing open day.

http://www.airbrush.com.au

Not RC specific but might be worth a look

Moz023

iTrader: (22)

hear is my latest shell for me this is all paint not sickers

TomB

iTrader: (10)

here is a 8th scale for jay "picky" arnamwat.

Z-Mann

looks rather angry.............u forgot the dreadlocks,looks good Tomb, you r the master

Mavrik

Nice work Moz and TomB, keep it up guy's. It's good to see other peoples work for inspiration.

Here are a couple more I've done lately.

Cheers Mavrik