TEAM MUCH MORE PSU PROBLEMS
#1
TEAM MUCH MORE PSU PROBLEMS
Hi guys my friends just bought a Team Much More PSU from an online store, unfortunately its not working we opened it up hoping it would be a fuse and it was not. Although i noticed one of its electrical components was not soldered in the board would this cause it not to function? I can solder that but want to confirm from the electricina guru's out there.
#2
G'Day mate,
I'd send it straight back mate, playing with a PSU isn't worth the trouble it could cause. Either that or let an electrician have a look at it, just remember that a even 0.5 amps across your heart can kill you. If your unsure just send it back.
I'd send it straight back mate, playing with a PSU isn't worth the trouble it could cause. Either that or let an electrician have a look at it, just remember that a even 0.5 amps across your heart can kill you. If your unsure just send it back.
#3
electrical component
It looks to be the lead off the rf choke, you can solder it if your brave and do not expect a refund when you cause it to blow up ..........personally I would take the entire board out to check the underside, the most likely cause is that during the "bake", the component was not inserted properly. Look for the nearby hole which does not have any pins sticking out of it and solder it in
Wui-Kiat
Wui-Kiat
#4
Send Back
Hey luie, just send it back man, not worth mucking around with, then again you could give it to name and he could probably make it work better than facory
#9
Tech Master
here loiue...
MY TEAM MUCH LESS PSU....
i can now use my Turbo35bl to charge my packs at 5amps, my mini-turbo to charge my radio pack at 3amps, run my comm lathe either on 3.3v or 5.1 volts., my tyre truer at 3.3v, break-in 2 motors at 3.3v and 2 fans to cool down packs ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
the damn thing is dangerous, a sure fire hazard and can even kill you in less than a minute. BUT boy it sure does wonders, stable at 16amps constant 12.34volts, super cool super quiet, light and compact. equivalent equipment would cost you roughly A$500 if you can find one. A PSU with 16amps constant 24amps peak 60% duty cycle thats multi voltage 12v/5.1v and 3.3v.
out
i can now use my Turbo35bl to charge my packs at 5amps, my mini-turbo to charge my radio pack at 3amps, run my comm lathe either on 3.3v or 5.1 volts., my tyre truer at 3.3v, break-in 2 motors at 3.3v and 2 fans to cool down packs ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
the damn thing is dangerous, a sure fire hazard and can even kill you in less than a minute. BUT boy it sure does wonders, stable at 16amps constant 12.34volts, super cool super quiet, light and compact. equivalent equipment would cost you roughly A$500 if you can find one. A PSU with 16amps constant 24amps peak 60% duty cycle thats multi voltage 12v/5.1v and 3.3v.
out
#10
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
get a massive 25amps from Jay car for $280AU or like me lol $180 because they stuffed up
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=381
Specifications:
- Output volts: 3 to 15VDC
- Output current: 25 Amp from 10 - 15VDC
- Max output current: 30 Amp (3 min)
- Ripple and noise: <10mV (RMS)
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=381
Specifications:
- Output volts: 3 to 15VDC
- Output current: 25 Amp from 10 - 15VDC
- Max output current: 30 Amp (3 min)
- Ripple and noise: <10mV (RMS)
#11
Tech Master
Originally Posted by the_barbarian
get a massive 25amps from Jay car for $280AU or like me lol $180 because they stuffed up
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=381
Specifications:
- Output volts: 3 to 15VDC
- Output current: 25 Amp from 10 - 15VDC
- Max output current: 30 Amp (3 min)
- Ripple and noise: <10mV (RMS)
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=381
Specifications:
- Output volts: 3 to 15VDC
- Output current: 25 Amp from 10 - 15VDC
- Max output current: 30 Amp (3 min)
- Ripple and noise: <10mV (RMS)
is that PSU just voltage adjustable? or is it multi voltage at as well? meaning 3 different voltage at any time (12/5/3v) and single volt output adjustable.
the next version we have on the bench right now is 35amps max(15mins, it cutoffs when using 3 chargers) 26amps constant for about $120...then again, its not certified by australian standard commission. its only checked by 2 licensed electricians, design by a computer technician and assembled by an electronics engineer and organised by yours truly( fake electronics engineer diploma, fake communications engineer and a N.A.S.A. reject applicant)
if i did not have any background on electronics, i would say those overpriced crap they sell retail is excellent. having travelled a lot as well makes it worst cos i know how much everybody is being ripped off.
out
#12
I solved all of my power supply problems for $40.00
Buy one of those Jump starters from SuperCheap Spares or AutoOne, they are ony about $50.00 I think Super cheap has a special for $40.00 ATM.
They have a Gel Cell in them and will deliver up to 600amps!!!
The Gel Cell alone is worth about $120.00 if you bought it seperately.
Any way they can be plugged in and run off 240v they are great for taking to the track and can be recharged from the car on the way home. They are goood for lots of packs (I don't know how many because I mainly use it at home but I have charged up 5 packs just to see if it would work as I thought.
Buy one of those Jump starters from SuperCheap Spares or AutoOne, they are ony about $50.00 I think Super cheap has a special for $40.00 ATM.
They have a Gel Cell in them and will deliver up to 600amps!!!
The Gel Cell alone is worth about $120.00 if you bought it seperately.
Any way they can be plugged in and run off 240v they are great for taking to the track and can be recharged from the car on the way home. They are goood for lots of packs (I don't know how many because I mainly use it at home but I have charged up 5 packs just to see if it would work as I thought.
#13
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Hologram
I solved all of my power supply problems for $40.00
Buy one of those Jump starters from SuperCheap Spares or AutoOne, they are ony about $50.00 I think Super cheap has a special for $40.00 ATM.
They have a Gel Cell in them and will deliver up to 600amps!!!
The Gel Cell alone is worth about $120.00 if you bought it seperately.
Any way they can be plugged in and run off 240v they are great for taking to the track and can be recharged from the car on the way home. They are goood for lots of packs (I don't know how many because I mainly use it at home but I have charged up 5 packs just to see if it would work as I thought.
Buy one of those Jump starters from SuperCheap Spares or AutoOne, they are ony about $50.00 I think Super cheap has a special for $40.00 ATM.
They have a Gel Cell in them and will deliver up to 600amps!!!
The Gel Cell alone is worth about $120.00 if you bought it seperately.
Any way they can be plugged in and run off 240v they are great for taking to the track and can be recharged from the car on the way home. They are goood for lots of packs (I don't know how many because I mainly use it at home but I have charged up 5 packs just to see if it would work as I thought.
Also, people dont realise that a clean power supply will charge your batteries better.
#14
As I said I have charged 5 packs from it to see if it would work and it was as good as the full size car battery I used to use. I do have a lab power supply 0-30V 25A but I wanted something to put in the kit for the gas cars as well.
It not only does the electric cars but works great for my starter box.
I understand 600 amps cranking but if you look at the stability of the battery I think you will find that it is fine.
Regardless of your opinion I have one and it works.
I also have done the computer PSU mod, used my lab supply and until now my main weapon of choice has been an Automotive battery.
The jump starter I have found to be the perfect compromise between reliability and portability.
I fail to see any logic in your statement "a clean power supply will charge your batteries better". If the power supply gives sufficient current and correct voltage the charger will limit and regulate the output to the battery correctly.
The power supply, given it comfortably exceeds the charging current of the pack, will make no difference.
I will charge 3 identical packs, one from the lab supply, one from an automotive battery and one from the jump starter and let you know the results around my practice course. So far I haven't found any noticable difference but I haven't done it with a stop watch yet. Your comments have piqued my curiosity.
Don't get caught up in this "rampant featurism" which seems to plague R/C.
Like the carbon fibre everything. Sometimes the simplest solution actually is the best one.
I can't see how you can get any cleaner than a high current lead-acid battery.
It not only does the electric cars but works great for my starter box.
I understand 600 amps cranking but if you look at the stability of the battery I think you will find that it is fine.
Regardless of your opinion I have one and it works.
I also have done the computer PSU mod, used my lab supply and until now my main weapon of choice has been an Automotive battery.
The jump starter I have found to be the perfect compromise between reliability and portability.
I fail to see any logic in your statement "a clean power supply will charge your batteries better". If the power supply gives sufficient current and correct voltage the charger will limit and regulate the output to the battery correctly.
The power supply, given it comfortably exceeds the charging current of the pack, will make no difference.
I will charge 3 identical packs, one from the lab supply, one from an automotive battery and one from the jump starter and let you know the results around my practice course. So far I haven't found any noticable difference but I haven't done it with a stop watch yet. Your comments have piqued my curiosity.
Don't get caught up in this "rampant featurism" which seems to plague R/C.
Like the carbon fibre everything. Sometimes the simplest solution actually is the best one.
I can't see how you can get any cleaner than a high current lead-acid battery.
Last edited by Hologram; 06-26-2005 at 12:34 AM.
#15
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
yea mate it has a nob to adjust the voltage to about 18v
Originally Posted by teamgatch
BRO
is that PSU just voltage adjustable? or is it multi voltage at as well? meaning 3 different voltage at any time (12/5/3v) and single volt output adjustable.
the next version we have on the bench right now is 35amps max(15mins, it cutoffs when using 3 chargers) 26amps constant for about $120...then again, its not certified by australian standard commission. its only checked by 2 licensed electricians, design by a computer technician and assembled by an electronics engineer and organised by yours truly( fake electronics engineer diploma, fake communications engineer and a N.A.S.A. reject applicant)
if i did not have any background on electronics, i would say those overpriced crap they sell retail is excellent. having travelled a lot as well makes it worst cos i know how much everybody is being ripped off.
out
is that PSU just voltage adjustable? or is it multi voltage at as well? meaning 3 different voltage at any time (12/5/3v) and single volt output adjustable.
the next version we have on the bench right now is 35amps max(15mins, it cutoffs when using 3 chargers) 26amps constant for about $120...then again, its not certified by australian standard commission. its only checked by 2 licensed electricians, design by a computer technician and assembled by an electronics engineer and organised by yours truly( fake electronics engineer diploma, fake communications engineer and a N.A.S.A. reject applicant)
if i did not have any background on electronics, i would say those overpriced crap they sell retail is excellent. having travelled a lot as well makes it worst cos i know how much everybody is being ripped off.
out