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Old 05-01-2005, 02:36 AM
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Default ever had this problem with your mods motor?

i was racing at Moorebank today with my hacker 6T with a u force shulze 75 speedy. it is the version 3 edition. the problem i have is that each time i peak a pack the car after long periods on the throttle out of the corners does not respond to the throttle. it either jitters out of the corner slowly or it just stays put ,then jitters slowly until it decides to work properly 1 second later. i am not "blipping the throttle out of the corners so it can't be this

infact it got so bad in the finals that it was dangerous and caused people to almost rear end me. on the 3rd final it was so bad i had to take the car of as it did it every corner.

WHAT THE HELL/AND HOW THE HELL DO I FIX THIS!!?

it also does this at EC after the straight...very annoying!! i missed doing a 15 lapper in my second qualifer because of this. it seems to do it when the packs are freshly charged, as the charge disipates through use it doesn't do it.(this makes me think it is a issue of excess amps or something, like the esc can't hack it? but at the same time i don't see this happening to other mod brushless guys. it has happened to Dan though before)

i have a capacitor that is connected into the reciever with some servo leads. is this ok? or should i direct solder it to the esc + - cables? also is it possible that my personal transponder is making this issue happen?
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Old 05-01-2005, 03:04 AM
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get a brushed motor and a decent speedo...
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Old 05-01-2005, 03:23 AM
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Originally posted by black-knight
get a brushed motor and a decent speedo...
i thought you were gonna help me out.....then i read your post
HELP A SUCKER OUT!
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Old 05-01-2005, 03:58 AM
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Default Hi

Hi,

If you aheva helios the pins which the module plugs into mite be loose just solder the pins one by in with the smallest soldering iron possible i hope this will help.

Cheers Davo
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:13 AM
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I watched the car doing laps in the finals. Upon exiting the corners it would stutter before kicking into full throttle. I know nothing about brushless but my guess would be a speedy or glitching prob. Try different reciver/radios 1st (that should cost you nothing). If its still no good you may need a new speedy.
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:30 AM
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Sounds like either the motor is cogging or the speedie is having thermo issues...
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Old 05-01-2005, 03:33 PM
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this is currently happening to ElectricConvert. The problem is the controller is missing the neutral points every now and then depending on how you use the throttle and on larger tracks. You should try 4 things:

1. Add a few % in the throttle subtrim to get car esc moving forward and back down just until the car stops on its own.

2. Try using the Fixed position instead of Neutral Learning (DIP 2)

3. Don't use rechargebles batteries in your transmitter or add another cell. (to incease voltage)

4. Take of anything coloured blue and stop using a chassis with X in the front.

I have also found using and additional capacitor when using a fan or PT on the 3rd channel helps and also on power wires of the ESC.
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:09 PM
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What radio are you using? if it is a HRS style this may be causing this problem with the Schultze, only the hacker seems to accept HRS.
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:16 PM
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Both this guys use KO Mars radio so either version should work.
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:06 PM
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Default PINS!!

TRY THE PINS IN THE BACK OF THE RADIO!!!
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Old 05-02-2005, 04:59 AM
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Default Re: PINS!!

Originally posted by Davo
TRY THE PINS IN THE BACK OF THE RADIO!!!
ok thanks i will try using a different reciever. then the radio settings feature that Dan mentioned. then i will try another batt on my radio pack, then i will try soldering a capacitor to the esc. i did notice that it didn't do it when my packs on the radio were fully charged though...hmmm.

so how do i solder a extra batt onto a already cramped ex10 batt compartment? IS THIS SAFE? no chance of exploding?

i don't think it is a thermal issue as it happens when i start a race and the packs are new.

this has made me think twice about getting a helios.

i am using a helios reciever but it is a standard mars this won't cause a issue will it?

also can a personal transponder cause a issue??????
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:00 AM
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Originally posted by Dragonfire
If its still no good you may need a new speedy.
lucky i bought it at kelletts ay! hopefully the docket hasn't faded!
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:04 AM
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Default Re: PINS!!

Originally posted by Davo
TRY THE PINS IN THE BACK OF THE RADIO!!!
what do you mean? they are loose?
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:13 AM
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Default Re: Re: PINS!!

Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
ok thanks i will try using a different reciever. then the radio settings feature that Dan mentioned. then i will try another batt on my radio pack, then i will try soldering a capacitor to the esc. i did notice that it didn't do it when my packs on the radio were fully charged though...hmmm.

so how do i solder a extra batt onto a already cramped ex10 batt compartment? IS THIS SAFE? no chance of exploding?

i don't think it is a thermal issue as it happens when i start a race and the packs are new.

this has made me think twice about getting a helios.

i am using a helios reciever but it is a standard mars this won't cause a issue will it?

also can a personal transponder cause a issue??????
Thomas, surely you are experienced enough to work through the problem replace one item at a time until it has been fixed.

Isnt the Helios receiver HSR only? did this problem happen with
an older version receiver?

Have you recently moved the PT closer to the receiver?
How low were your transmitter batts?
Take all of the extra crap you have added off the speedie and receiver
Go back to the manual and rest the speedie.

If these things dont work, let me have a drive of it on saturday, i watched you car a few times, and there didnt appear to be anything wrong with it, except you just kept mashing it everywhere.

Oh and surely you can work out a simple calculation such as rollout, your not driving a gas car where if it isnt quick enough you just lean it out.
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:22 AM
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Default PINS

The pins at the back off the module might be loose and not sending a signal because if they are loose and not touching the curcuit they should be moving cause they are loose if they are re solder them then the crystal will send a signal because the crystal in pluged in and not loose becuse the pins are apart of the modules sending and reciving!! Try wriggling the pins if they move open the radio and re solder the pins so they touch the curcuit and are tite.

Cheers Davo
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