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Originally posted by Coxy Much better than the GT7. Way too many of these blew up, but I believe they have fixed it (GT7) now with the larger extra D size cell hanging off the side. It seems now you get a small speedy, add a large cap to it (Novak style) add a heats shink to it (LRP Style) add a diode to it (Ko Style) and it's now larger than the ESC that were out years and years ago. Oh and now they make them water proof in a gel. Looks like no fixing them when they blow now in that gel case (mtronic style), good plan. Coxy. TC2 was a good speedo except the on/off button can play up, this maybe why the gt7 saw the return of a normal switch. The power and profiles on the GT7 def out run the TC2. |
Keyence = Hella reliable !!!
Had mine for 2 years or so, worked absolutely perfect until I (me) reversed battery wires (any speedy would hate this) so i sent it back to manufacture, and a brand new replacement one was sent within weeks at very small cost. Apart from this, I have never seen a Keyence go up in smoke. :rolleyes: |
Sounds like I should keep my....
old Novak T1x then with its 12 or so fets even if it isn't the smallest Esc around lol..
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Originally posted by black-knight GT7's are rock solid now, over the past months very few have been returned due to faults (maybe just 1). TC2 was a good speedo except the on/off button can play up, this maybe why the gt7 saw the return of a normal switch. The power and profiles on the GT7 def out run the TC2. |
Originally posted by Glue-Stick Keyence = Hella reliable !!! Had mine for 2 years or so, worked absolutely perfect until I (me) reversed battery wires (any speedy would hate this) so i sent it back to manufacture, and a brand new replacement one was sent within weeks at very small cost. Apart from this, I have never seen a Keyence go up in smoke. :rolleyes: |
Originally posted by Kennedy So how do I tell the difference between the 1st and second generation GT7? |
Thanks for all your replies and suggestions.
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Originally posted by Kennedy Is that the Zero V Extreme? or A01 or A02? |
Ive plugged my TC2 into batteries the wrong way before, killed a pack, and its still works flawlessly
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:batman: Yes but dont forget that we r also demanding more current than we ever used when i started racing some time ago now! you u were the gun if you raced with a nine turn black scrc were the packs to have .There will be a few who remember them now we race with 3300s and 6 turn somethings gotta give! Nosram have been the best speedos ive found blow one up under warranty of course and u normally have a replacement under two weeks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!
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heck, there's a few here who remember racing with 1200s and Tamiya's hump packs were the go.
Peak charging those consisted of keeping your chargeleads on until the plastic hump case softened & bubbled... :p :p :p What's an ESC?? :D :lol: :D |
Re: Quantum Competition 2 ESC Problem
Originally posted by Stonzy Hi all, I bought a QC2 2 months ago from a shop in HK and i used it for the 1st time last Sunday and all was going well until the 3rd heat when my switch snapped off. I've fixed that by connecting the 2 wires together so i had no switch which worked fine but then the 5th race i landed very hard on my motor and lost everything. No power to the esc at all....as well with no steering. Our wires are huge, no plug resistance when you hardwire & the motor isn't bothered by spikes and the ESC's FETs can handle heaps of current... so, the common weak point is the soldered interface between ESC's PCB and its surface-mounted FETs or the PCB tracks between FETs & wire. Think there's enough leeway there for FETs to move in their soldered footholds and short out against something else but the evidence is hard to find. I have inspected many similar charred remains (including a Nosram DomPwr) but the fire is usually hot enough to dislodge other electronic components too. |
Quantum Competition 2
Anyone tried the option of the "World Kit" (2 x Capacitors, & heatsink)
Maybe this would solve any issues???? |
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