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Old 09-20-2009, 08:51 PM
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Default New Tamiya buggy - DB01-R

Unlike a certain other 4wd off road buggy recently launched with much fanfare, the DB01-R was released last week in typical low-key Tamiya fashion.



I was too slow to order a Yokomo B-Max4 Limited (now mostly sold out, and there are no more coming), so one of these little puppies just landed on my desk. I ordered one for a few reasons:

1). It reminds me of the TA05-R touring car, which was an awesome piece of kit. So easy to build, maintain and drive
2). Like the B-Max4, it adopts the philosophy of simplifying and bullet-proofing a high end design (it's based on the 501X and many parts are interchangeable)
3). At US$230, it's an absolute steal! (you could buy 3 for the price of a Durango!) http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...ducts_id=15513
4). It's different to what everyone else is running


For those interested, I'll update here with some build pics, tips and a 'review' of sorts when I hit the track with it.

First tip is to shell out for the nice Tamiya titanium screw kit - OP1024 - as the car comes standard with those pesky philips head screws!

Cheers,
Scotty P.






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Old 09-20-2009, 11:00 PM
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this was announced a week after i got the DB-01 baldre
but all good, thought the R would have come with the Ti screw kit!
got it for mine along with the slipper(donated by a fellow ryde DB-01 racer, cheers brendan)
have been running it with a LRP X12 7.5 with no probs, even the standard outdrives have held up, although they have needed tightning after each run for the first 3 to 4 runs, i think this is why on some forums there have been complaints of melting diffs, if i had not checked them(as a novice would not) they would have melted by now as they were very loose, now they seem to be holding fine, just need to bed in more than some diffs.
i have set the diffs at 1/2 turn from fully tightened on the rear and 1/4 on the front.
i am still using the plastic shocks but with 1 hole piston all round and 50 wt AE oil in the front, 40 wt AE oil in the rear.

there are now 5 or 6 of these chassis running at ryde, with a few more to come.
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:31 PM
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I mean no disrepect, and it looks like a nice kit, but if you've seen the Durango in the flesh, you'll know why i costs 3x as much.
For example, there is no need to shell out for a Ti screw kit. There are many other reasons, but I won't hijack your thread...

Look forward to seeing build pics.. and if it's mirrored off the 501, its sure to be a winner..
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:31 PM
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There are 2 already on their way towards Ryde...
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:52 PM
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So Scott are you testing the new car this weekend at Castle Hill????
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by littlejohn
I mean no disrepect, and it looks like a nice kit, but if you've seen the Durango in the flesh, you'll know why i costs 3x as much.
For example, there is no need to shell out for a Ti screw kit. There are many other reasons, but I won't hijack your thread...

Look forward to seeing build pics.. and if it's mirrored off the 501, its sure to be a winner..
yes it is mirrored off the 501, i have driven one of them and the DB-01 feel very simular, but not as twitchy due to extra flex which i like.
i will be running my baldre in mod at the states so looking forward to going up against the best there is
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:06 AM
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Actually, more parts are interchangeable with the 511 than the 501x, eg the high traction suspension arms. I've got a 511 that I'll be racing at ryde mainly, but also states at CH
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:47 AM
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TJ - won't have the car ready for this weekend. Probably won't run it at the states either. Just want to focus on 2wd.

Nice looking box... so to speak. Quite compact and has a carry handle, if that's your thing.


Everything nicely packaged in usual Tamiya fashion. Note that, much like a touring car, you do not get wheels & tyres, or a body. Apparently both the Durga and Baldre body will fit, but the Baldre is preferable due to extra clearance and cooling.


Chassis is a very elaborate molding. Apparently it's different to the standard DB01, but not sure how as I haven't owned one of those. Battery slots are molded for torch batteries, but Lipo seems to fit snuggly enough.


Nice Ti screw kit. Also available from 3 Racing.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:07 AM
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the standard chassis does not have the cut out under the motor.
what out drives do they give you in the R? two piece(plastic + metal) or one?
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:48 AM
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While the questions are rolling in....

So to be prepared, are they 12mm or 501 hex?
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by blue hornet.
yes it is mirrored off the 501, i have driven one of them and the DB-01 feel very simular, but not as twitchy due to extra flex which i like.
I remember a few years back nearly everyone at the on road club I used to race at put away their 415's and started using TA05's for the same reason.
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Badmuthatrucker
While the questions are rolling in....

So to be prepared, are they 12mm or 501 hex?
same as the 501
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:00 PM
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Thanks Dave.
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:09 PM
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According to Tamiya's website, the R comes with "high traction" chassis. I wonder if this is actually the carbon chassis (OP1041) available as an option for DB01? The carbon chassis has the holes for motor heatsink and side by side battery cells, which looks like what is shown in the photo above.

Also, please let me know if there are any bodies (other than Durga and Baldre) that will fit. I like J-Concepts and Team Azarashi bodies, but they don't seem to make bodies for the DB01.
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by blue hornet.
the standard chassis does not have the cut out under the motor.
what out drives do they give you in the R? two piece(plastic + metal) or one?
I haven't checked the actual box contents as yet, but I am led to believe it comes with the two piece out drives, not the 511 style one-piece steel items. I'll try the standard ones first and if they're not up to it, I'll replace with steel.

Bearcat - regarding bodies, I'm not sure. I was hoping the B44 body might fit as I have a nice custom painted one. The profile of the shell tracks the chassis shape nicely, EXCEPT for bulge where the motor sticks out! Don't think I'll be able to use it.

Cheers,
Scotty P.
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