Ratmick

iTrader: (7)

Hi all,

Thinking of returning to the RC fold after a long absence.

I used to race 540 Touring Car Class a fair few years ago in Melton at the MECCA track that used to be in the carpark of the Recreation centre. At that time I had a 4WD Tamiya TA03 car, which is still in my shed somewhere (minus the speed controller and radio gear).

Just how long ago I had NFI until I just checked an old trophy and found out it was actually 1998 . At that stage I had a young family and a militant wife. I gave the hobby away after a couple of seasons as it was deemed that having every second Sunday to myself was not the right thing to do. Fool .

Ten years later from the 540 Class I now have an ex-wife, a new partner and older children that still live with me. My new partner is (well, she is at this stage anyway) generally favourable to me getting into something that doesn't involve possible death and injury to myself. FWIW I was thinking 1:1 scale 2WD dirt buggies, but this seems cheaper and maybe I can do this in conjunction with my boys (who are now 16 and 14). Yes, this is probably a mid-life crisis thing, but please humour me .

I have a plethora of RC gear in the shed, some of it not that old as I made a half-arsed attempt to get back into it a few years back, but that was quashed by the Ex as well (people may start to see a pattern here). I was wondering if what I had was at all half-competitive, or whether I so far off the mark I may as well start from scratch and not embarrass myself .

I have:
* Team Edition B3 buggy 99.9% finished in the shed (all that needs doing is the shell needs painting).
* A brand-spankers never-used new JR FM multi-car radio still in it's box that has never been switched on (can't remember the exact model).
* Various servos, Novak ESC, tools and a few motors (mostly 540s, but I have a new stock Fantom and a Fantom 16x3).
* I also have a set of matched NiCad race batteries that have done jack for the last five years.
* Tekin peak-detect charger for the NiCads.

I'm guessing the game has moved on in the time I have been away, and the batteries/charger may be only good for hooning around the front yard (I have an acre in the middle of a farmer's paddock), but does anyone offer any hope with what I have already sitting around?

If not what will I need to get myself on the track in Keilor or Castlemaine (I live in Woodend)?

Any idea of a good starting point to re-enter into the world of RC Racing for an aging 44yo would be good .

Many thanks, Mick

pkmck111

iTrader: (2)

The batteries and charger are pretty much dead wood.

Can't tell you much about the cars but Castlemaine have an On Road meet on Sunday so maybe you could make the the trip up and ask there. They have a novice class and (if I am allowed to) I will have a spare car you or your sons could have a go at.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

For off-road racing, what you have will get you back into it no probs, especially if you want to run 540. Off road is nowhere near as reliant on equipment as onroad, so the old stuff will be fine. The nicds may need a bit of cycling, but will probably be OK, at least until you have practiced a bit.

This Saturday evening we have a race at Keilor. if you come along to the track you will see the range of modern equipment and people will be able to answer your questions. There will be national champs and rank beginners so you will be able to see the full range of equipment being used. Racing starts at 4pm - check out the Keilor thread on this forum for more info.

Hunt me down at the track and Ill be able to answer your questions.

L8r

Ray

X5 Addict

iTrader: (20)

Hey Mick

I really feel your pain with the militant wife thing, most of us in the hobby have the problem to some degree Hope the hop up version you have now had that bug in the software corrected, although it is an inherant problem in that class.

The B3 will still be very competitve believe it or not and parts are still available fairly readily, so as Ray said go for it.

These days you'll need to look at Lipo (and charger) and brushless, not 100% necessary but heaps more convenient with tuning and maintanence.

Radio will still be fine, without knowing the model I don't know its features, have a look at what other guys are running and have a feel to see what fits you best. A lot are now using 2.4GHz where you never have a frequency conflict, again this is more for the convenience (and you don't get the traditional crystal glitching.

Cheers and good luck
Tom.

timmey

I'm 41 and having a ball with offroad rc,I came into the hobbie when the Li-po cell was just comming in and I brought a whole heap of what they call the torch batteries . You had to solder them up ,discharge,balance and then 1 cell would be rotten.Just a pain,they are still good today,but you could save a lot of trouble.
One bit of advice is to go straight to Li-po as it is cheaper and easier to use and you could get away with the one battery if care is taken.
The other thing is a brushless motor set up,look into these as the old brushed motor is slowly going out,I think I'm the only one running these now

Good luck,and when you are set up the cost of the hobbie can be fairly cheap if you take it as fun sunday racing !
Timmey

Ratmick

iTrader: (7)

Hi all, thanks for the replies.

I'm guessing I should dust everything off and see what's not infested with redbacks or eaten by mice.

I have to admit I knew SFA about LiPo cells until alerted to their existence by another member of this forum who I happen to sit behind at work. As I'm starting from a knowledge level of zero, and I have seen some really impressive explosions on Youtube, what is the go with them?

I take from talking to Paul (aka Treefingers) and reading some of the above that I will need at least one battery, a new charger and a new ESC with a low-voltage cutoff. The internet wasn't that handy for this sort of thing in Australia back in 1998, where do I go, what do I buy and how much am I looking at? Any inside info on great deals, favoured sponsor status, great brands of cells/chargers to consider gratefully accepted .

thks again, Mick

FK05 lover

iTrader: (147)

Hi Mick,
I'm 50 & have been in it 18mths, on road is tough against the young blokes,
but when ya have a good day, you can scare the shit out of''em..
Harrisrc.com can help you out with all your needs, Tony is really helpful whether you buy from him or not!, the service is great & the prices are more than competitive...I've used him for that time & never had a problem
Jim

Losiho

iTrader: (1)

I'm "old school" and I initially had my doubts about Lipo, until I tried them. I won't buy "torch batteries" again. As for the explosions on Youtube - some idiots probably shoot the video because they thing it's cool Lipos are just like any other battery - they need to be charged and handled with care. How many nicads or metal hyrdrides have exploded while charging ? Heaps.

You WILL need a Lipo charger. Can't charge them with anything else (or they will catch fire, guaranteed). Decent Lipo chargers are, however, relatively cheap. Just charge them a 1C - that's it.

I remeber when I first got in the hobby, myself and my mates charged our 1200SC nicads with charge cords connected directly to a car (automotive) battery. I dunno what we were thinking / doing back then

And there's nothing wrong with brushed motors. Brushless are for Plebs who don't know how to use a Comm Lathe

mok

iTrader: (9)

if you're looking at getting back into the hobby i would recommend the following...

- IP3800 35C lipo batteries x 2 (enough power and capacity for every motor down to 5.5 turn brushless)
- cheap balance charger (IMAX, GT Power etc)
- lipo charge sack (these are becoming required items at clubs, usually for insurance and safety purposes)

with the equipment you've got..

- TA03 - recondition this and run it, or sell it to a drifter (they are very popular amongst drifters due to the layout etc)
- Novak ESC - which type is this? if its a GTX then keep it and get an external lipo cutoff device (and run a brushed motor), otherwise look to replacing it with a brushless ESC with built-in lipo cutoff

if you want to replace your chassis, get a new tub chassis like the TA05 or if the $$ permits look around for a second hand carbon chassis like the TRF415 etc.

thats my 2 cents :P

-Mark

Ratmick

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Mark, it's old, much older than what you have specified. According to the box it's a 'Novak RacerEX' with 'HyperFET' technology

The radio is a JR Racing XR3...alas can't find the bloody manual. At least I didn't leave batteries in it .

Found the manual on the JR Website

Any idea where I'd get the battery you described? Do clubs generally allow LiPo if they are on the ROAR approved list and you have a LiPo bag/follow the criteria as laid out by AARCMCC?

Mick

Ratmick

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Ray.

Does the Keilor club have a list of classes/rules/allowable equipment before I hand over the Visa card number to a few internet merchants? I don't want to start accumulating gear if it's not allowed to be used.

thks, Mick

lookiezx-5

iTrader: (5)

Heya keilor runs all 2wd/4wd classes. These include 540/stock and mod. They also run trucks which are mainly a mod class. Keilor and knox follow the roar regs which can be found here: http://www.roarracing.com/rules.php

The biggest class is probably 2wd stock followed by 4wd stock. In these classes the motor limit is 27t brushed or 17.5t brushless. Lipo is allowed but must be on the roar approved list which can be found here: http://www.roarracing.com/approvals.php

crazydave

iTrader: (48)

The JR XR3 will be fine, still a good radio(i run one on a TT01)

ant0276

iTrader: (2)

Just got to correct Lookie on this one.

Truck is usually considered "open" at club days so not to split it up in to motor classes. It is usually patronized by stock truck drivers, with the odd modified having a run.

If you like truck, bring it down, with whatever it has. If you want to continue, consider stock truck as a class. It's fun.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

Another slight correction (not wanting to pick on you Lookie ) in Victoria we run to AARCMCC regs (which are very similar to ROAR). See http://www.aarcmcc.org/rules.html.

To be honest, at club level it is pretty relaxed. The main thing to look out for if you look at going Lipo is to get a ROAR legal lipo (ie hardcase) and a lipo specific charger.

I suggest getting into 2w stock if its been a while - the class is competitive and you have the option of brushed and brushless. The B3 should be more than competitive in stock.

Ray