3LikesM03/M05's - The Aussie Mini Racing thread
11-15-2013, 01:00 PM
#5537
G'day
Seriously considering getting a mini, even though there isn't a class for them at my local track, don't have to travel to far to race it and they look like fun.
Just a couple of quick questions. Replacing the bushes with bearings and some proper shocks are a bit of a no brainer, is there anything else that need replacing while still keeping it legal?
How 'bout the stock motor and ESC, are they so uncompetitive they should be junked in favour of the Hobbywing combo from the start.
Any recommendations for tyres?
Many thanks
Deeno
Seriously considering getting a mini, even though there isn't a class for them at my local track, don't have to travel to far to race it and they look like fun.
Just a couple of quick questions. Replacing the bushes with bearings and some proper shocks are a bit of a no brainer, is there anything else that need replacing while still keeping it legal?
How 'bout the stock motor and ESC, are they so uncompetitive they should be junked in favour of the Hobbywing combo from the start.
Any recommendations for tyres?
Many thanks
Deeno
11-18-2013, 08:12 PM
#5538
If you go M05, then I think the steering upgrades are a must. Also the front shock mount, you need to stand the shocks up. You won't want to do more than one event with a silver can, they are too slow vs the hobbywing. Last kit I got I sold the silver can and esc on ebay, which paid for the steering basically!
Other than that, you should be pretty right. You don't need alloy uprights. Chuck an oil filled gear diff at it once you're up to speed driving the Mini or as your budget allows, and upgrade to uni joints at the same time.
Tyres I'd recommend at the start would be Ride 3035's on front and Spice 28's on back. Sweep 40's on front for more front grip, but you'll only get ~6 heats out of a pair. Ride 3035's will last a LONG time, and really aren't a lot slower.
Other than that, you should be pretty right. You don't need alloy uprights. Chuck an oil filled gear diff at it once you're up to speed driving the Mini or as your budget allows, and upgrade to uni joints at the same time.
Tyres I'd recommend at the start would be Ride 3035's on front and Spice 28's on back. Sweep 40's on front for more front grip, but you'll only get ~6 heats out of a pair. Ride 3035's will last a LONG time, and really aren't a lot slower.
11-18-2013, 08:12 PM
#5539
If going M03, just add shocks and drive it! That's pretty much how mine was for the first 6 months!
(edited due to double post!)
(edited due to double post!)
Last edited by poeee; 11-18-2013 at 08:35 PM.
11-20-2013, 02:16 PM
#5540
Thanks for that!
Any preference for hop up manufacturer? ie, yeah racing, 3 racing etc or stick to Tamiya bits and pieces?
Cheers
Deeno
Any preference for hop up manufacturer? ie, yeah racing, 3 racing etc or stick to Tamiya bits and pieces?
Cheers
Deeno
11-20-2013, 03:02 PM
#5541
For the bits that take a beating, such as steering knuckless, rear uprights and dampers - Tamiya. For universals (axles) - 3Racing. Bearings - Whichever is cheap.
If you get an M05, it's a toss up for the steering linkage. I got the Yeah racing version. It was cheap and it works well.
The rest is just shiny stuff.
If you get an M05, it's a toss up for the steering linkage. I got the Yeah racing version. It was cheap and it works well.
The rest is just shiny stuff.
11-20-2013, 07:00 PM
#5543
I've just started racing mini class again with a M-05
Used to play around years ago with a M-03 that had the stock tamiya ESC and silver can. The car was so slow I could drive the track with one hand, using my pointer finger for throttle, thumb for steering.
So yeah, i'd ditch them pretty quickly and go with a 13.5T/3000KV or whatever your club specs are.
Bearings and shocks are a must as has been said.
Since starting racing again, my first race was built as above. I just wanted to see how the car (and myself) could complete and see what was needed to improve on.
Over many years i've seen people throw money at cars and modifications to be the same as the quick guys. Usually they end up going backwards.
Not everything works the same for different people.
I prefer to do little bits at a time. That way its easier to see what works for you and what doesn't.
Used to play around years ago with a M-03 that had the stock tamiya ESC and silver can. The car was so slow I could drive the track with one hand, using my pointer finger for throttle, thumb for steering.
So yeah, i'd ditch them pretty quickly and go with a 13.5T/3000KV or whatever your club specs are.
Bearings and shocks are a must as has been said.
Since starting racing again, my first race was built as above. I just wanted to see how the car (and myself) could complete and see what was needed to improve on.
Over many years i've seen people throw money at cars and modifications to be the same as the quick guys. Usually they end up going backwards.
Not everything works the same for different people.
I prefer to do little bits at a time. That way its easier to see what works for you and what doesn't.
11-21-2013, 03:41 PM
#5544
Steering for M05, i've only used Tamiya.
Same with the uni's, only ever used Tamiya. Use the kit dog bones until you want to throw the money at Tamiya uni's, IMO.
Front and rear uprights, keep them plastic unless you want to fork out for Tamiya alloy bits. Seen too many (not mine) non Tamiya bits bend.
I've mostly ran Tamiya 54000 shocks, but have done a few events with 3Racing shocks and found them a very good budget option. People will tell you that the 3Racing shocks leak, but i've had them on a basher and had them on an M03 that's done a few events and never had a problem. They aren't quite as 'nice' as the Tamiya shocks, but good enough.
The 3Racing oil gear diff in my M05 has been excellent.
Same with the uni's, only ever used Tamiya. Use the kit dog bones until you want to throw the money at Tamiya uni's, IMO.
Front and rear uprights, keep them plastic unless you want to fork out for Tamiya alloy bits. Seen too many (not mine) non Tamiya bits bend.
I've mostly ran Tamiya 54000 shocks, but have done a few events with 3Racing shocks and found them a very good budget option. People will tell you that the 3Racing shocks leak, but i've had them on a basher and had them on an M03 that's done a few events and never had a problem. They aren't quite as 'nice' as the Tamiya shocks, but good enough.
The 3Racing oil gear diff in my M05 has been excellent.
11-21-2013, 11:18 PM
#5545
...have done a few events with 3Racing shocks and found them a very good budget option. People will tell you that the 3Racing shocks leak, but i've had them on a basher and had them on an M03 that's done a few events and never had a problem. They aren't quite as 'nice' as the Tamiya shocks, but good enough.
I've not seen anyone using the new Yeah Racing shocks but they LOOK nice... and their stuff has been slowly improving with time
11-22-2013, 06:07 PM
#5546
Thought you guys might be interested in my latest project....
11-22-2013, 09:34 PM
#5547
Thanks for the replies!
Going to start collecting bits and pieces, will have something to race in the new year.
Just how tough are these Minis....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9BuKNE1P2g
Cheers
Deeno
Going to start collecting bits and pieces, will have something to race in the new year.
Just how tough are these Minis....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9BuKNE1P2g
Cheers
Deeno
11-28-2013, 03:49 AM
#5548
MO5 Update
Here are some pictures of the new parts I have fitted to my MO5L. These include the new front short upper link, MO6 suspension pins as fitted to the gold chassis pro kit, new rear cf shock tower, longer shocks and Ride tyres.
Car seems to work ok, but still have the new bottom 1 degree plate to fit and replace the two degree rear hubs. I am going to try one degree rear hubs and 2.5 degree rear toe.
The Ride Inch up tyres, MC 38 front and SC 32 rears are working at Castlehill, Illawara, Riverstone and at Penrith netball court track.
Have had to soften the car setup, but still a work in progress.
Later,
50Cal
Car seems to work ok, but still have the new bottom 1 degree plate to fit and replace the two degree rear hubs. I am going to try one degree rear hubs and 2.5 degree rear toe.
The Ride Inch up tyres, MC 38 front and SC 32 rears are working at Castlehill, Illawara, Riverstone and at Penrith netball court track.
Have had to soften the car setup, but still a work in progress.
Later,
50Cal
12-01-2013, 07:39 PM
#5549
Here are some pictures of the new parts I have fitted to my MO5L. These include the new front short upper link, MO6 suspension pins as fitted to the gold chassis pro kit, new rear cf shock tower, longer shocks and Ride tyres.
Car seems to work ok, but still have the new bottom 1 degree plate to fit and replace the two degree rear hubs. I am going to try one degree rear hubs and 2.5 degree rear toe.
The Ride Inch up tyres, MC 38 front and SC 32 rears are working at Castlehill, Illawara, Riverstone and at Penrith netball court track.
Have had to soften the car setup, but still a work in progress.
Later,
50Cal
Car seems to work ok, but still have the new bottom 1 degree plate to fit and replace the two degree rear hubs. I am going to try one degree rear hubs and 2.5 degree rear toe.
The Ride Inch up tyres, MC 38 front and SC 32 rears are working at Castlehill, Illawara, Riverstone and at Penrith netball court track.
Have had to soften the car setup, but still a work in progress.
Later,
50Cal