Official Go Engines Thread
#61
pm sent.
i'm mostly just investigating at this point. looking for something cheapish. current engines you can see in my sig. the 21tm has been good so far. very easy. the 3.3 i liked, until the rear bearing went. but traxxas sent me a new one (which i will likely kill in the same way, or maybe i should put in a new bearing before that even happens)
i'm mostly just investigating at this point. looking for something cheapish. current engines you can see in my sig. the 21tm has been good so far. very easy. the 3.3 i liked, until the rear bearing went. but traxxas sent me a new one (which i will likely kill in the same way, or maybe i should put in a new bearing before that even happens)
#62
Yes i agree id either go the 5 port or the 3 Port R Spec for the Revo. I have PM ed you a guy that does conversions for a living and does it really well or you can contact Myles Cooper , he did a great job on his revo and is an awesome driver !
If you need more help dont hesitate !
Cheers MM
If you need more help dont hesitate !
Cheers MM
#63
The dyno charts have to be re done , we have a different software now that will give smoother graphs, the previous one was hard to read . I can however tell you that the new R Spec was putting out 2.2 hp at the wheels with the Go 2047 pipe... The engine was on its 5th tank so it wont put out full power tull it hits the 3 to 4 litre mark ... we anticipate that it will put out close to 2.8 at the wheels when run in ...
#67
Hey All
Excellent news from Albion Park on the weekend !
The OCM Go Massive race team takes 1-2-3 in buggy Running Massive Mods new A Main Race fuel !
Theo 1st OCM / Go 7 Port
Kev 2nd OCM / Go 7 Port
Craig 3rd OCM / Go 5 Port
EXCELLENT RESULT GUYS ! CHEERS MM
Excellent news from Albion Park on the weekend !
The OCM Go Massive race team takes 1-2-3 in buggy Running Massive Mods new A Main Race fuel !
Theo 1st OCM / Go 7 Port
Kev 2nd OCM / Go 7 Port
Craig 3rd OCM / Go 5 Port
EXCELLENT RESULT GUYS ! CHEERS MM
#68
Hi, I’m Myles that’s mentioned earlier in this thread, thanks for the compliments. As you know I am running a 5 port Go .21 in my Revo and I have been very happy with its performance. The only fuel that goes through my motor is Massivemods Scorpion 16%.
I have been tuning nitro motors for years and I think I have a pretty good ear for getting it right.(but I am in no way perfict)
The other day I was at the track re-tuning the truck after changing the brand and style of fuel filter. When I have finished and I was happy with the tune another person at the track asked “that looks like its going great, what temp are you running it at?”
I had no idea so he placed his temp gun on my motor after a blast down the straight and it was reading 110C that made me try richening a fraction and I found I could get the temp down to 105c without affecting the performance. I thought this was a great aid for both getting the max out of the engine and making sure that you don’t go too lean or hot or both.
Anyway this has made me go out and buy a high end temp gun and now my question is what would be the ideal temp for my motor and fuel combo???
Or what range should I be working in???
At what temp will I start to do damage or start to reduce the engines life???
Also when taking temp readings do I have to take the ambient temp into account???
Sorry for the long post but I thought that the question needed some background
I have been tuning nitro motors for years and I think I have a pretty good ear for getting it right.(but I am in no way perfict)

The other day I was at the track re-tuning the truck after changing the brand and style of fuel filter. When I have finished and I was happy with the tune another person at the track asked “that looks like its going great, what temp are you running it at?”

I had no idea so he placed his temp gun on my motor after a blast down the straight and it was reading 110C that made me try richening a fraction and I found I could get the temp down to 105c without affecting the performance. I thought this was a great aid for both getting the max out of the engine and making sure that you don’t go too lean or hot or both.
Anyway this has made me go out and buy a high end temp gun and now my question is what would be the ideal temp for my motor and fuel combo???
Or what range should I be working in???
At what temp will I start to do damage or start to reduce the engines life???
Also when taking temp readings do I have to take the ambient temp into account???
Sorry for the long post but I thought that the question needed some background
#69
HEy Myles ! No problem my friend
Engine temps is a widely contested subject and while i believe that temps can play an important role in engine behaviour , it should never be used as a tool to tune by .
So many things determine an engine temp .. and they will vary from engine to engine. What you need to do is tune for performance so that the engine runs consistantly and gives you the performance and tank time thats resonable.
Then take the temps and see for your own record where it likes to be at
some engines like running at 110 c and some wont perform till they hit 155 c ... why is that ? Like i mentioned earlier its determined by the set up IE
Fuel
Pipe
Tyres
Clutch
Heat Sink emmisivity
etc etc etc
You also have to keep in mind that some temp guns can give you very different readings between them , even the same brand .. so you may be getting false information from the gun .. This is why listening is the only way really to tune .. Really the hotter the engine the better , not to the point that its suffering by any means , but when its hot and runs consistant it will last longer as long as you have a good oil package in your fuel . I ran my Rody V12 consistanly at 160 deg c on scorpion 333 for 15 litres getting close to 11 mins to a 75 ml tank .. The thing still runs , mind you it needed a pinch .. That was an experiment and i dont recommend doing that . But you can safely run between 110 and 14o deg c .. thats what i think would be a general range to run at.
Engine temps is a widely contested subject and while i believe that temps can play an important role in engine behaviour , it should never be used as a tool to tune by .
So many things determine an engine temp .. and they will vary from engine to engine. What you need to do is tune for performance so that the engine runs consistantly and gives you the performance and tank time thats resonable.
Then take the temps and see for your own record where it likes to be at
some engines like running at 110 c and some wont perform till they hit 155 c ... why is that ? Like i mentioned earlier its determined by the set up IE
Fuel
Pipe
Tyres
Clutch
Heat Sink emmisivity
etc etc etc
You also have to keep in mind that some temp guns can give you very different readings between them , even the same brand .. so you may be getting false information from the gun .. This is why listening is the only way really to tune .. Really the hotter the engine the better , not to the point that its suffering by any means , but when its hot and runs consistant it will last longer as long as you have a good oil package in your fuel . I ran my Rody V12 consistanly at 160 deg c on scorpion 333 for 15 litres getting close to 11 mins to a 75 ml tank .. The thing still runs , mind you it needed a pinch .. That was an experiment and i dont recommend doing that . But you can safely run between 110 and 14o deg c .. thats what i think would be a general range to run at.
#70
Thanks for the reply. I have read it over a number of times and I understand every point you are making. I agree that you can’t just use temp to tune but there is quite a range between running well but on the rich side, all the way up to just under the point where you get power loss down the straight coz its too lean.
By the sounds of it I should be trying to run the motor closer to lean than rich because I can trust the oil in the fuel will do its job and the hotter (within reason) the motor runs the longer it will last.
Thanks for the rule of thumb numbers too, they give me a great place to start. Maybe all my tunes in the past have been on the conservative side.
If so look out Mr. Sniffer
By the sounds of it I should be trying to run the motor closer to lean than rich because I can trust the oil in the fuel will do its job and the hotter (within reason) the motor runs the longer it will last.
Thanks for the rule of thumb numbers too, they give me a great place to start. Maybe all my tunes in the past have been on the conservative side.
If so look out Mr. Sniffer
#72
Hahahah ! no problemo Myles , any time you have a question dont hesitate ..
One thing to try is get the engine going just how you like it , once its settled then temp it .. then you will have a reference point , if your engine goes too far away from that point you then have a " tell " that can prompt you to look at it closer .. remember when your tune goes out dont always assume its the needles ,.. have a look around the engine , pressure lines , seals , plug etc to see what caused it to go out suddenly ..
Cheers MM
One thing to try is get the engine going just how you like it , once its settled then temp it .. then you will have a reference point , if your engine goes too far away from that point you then have a " tell " that can prompt you to look at it closer .. remember when your tune goes out dont always assume its the needles ,.. have a look around the engine , pressure lines , seals , plug etc to see what caused it to go out suddenly ..
Cheers MM




any excuse for coming 2nd eh myles?