I found this on the HPI site and tried it on my MTX3:

My front and rear has tweak. Now to adjust, stupid me started to play around with the droop screws... go figure, i thought it would balance things out. Well it did, but is this the best way of doing fixing tweak, or am I better off extending the shocks of the wheel that lifts first???

What do you guys think? I tried measuring the shocks and they are all the same length, i think the load of the car is not centered so that is why its tweaked... any thoughts?

I have always been under the impression that this method only works on pan cars because 4WD touring cars don't have a solid rear axle.... but maybe its changed... I do know a tweak board will be much more accurate

doing it with droop screws would be definitly less than the best way to do it... droop has a much greater effect on a car's handling and the way each wheel grips more than most people relise and I definitly wouldn't recommend using... at worst you can use shock tension in a squeeze

take your shocks of the car, take the springs of the shocks and measure the visible section of the shock piston when fully extended.

remember not to mix the front shocks with the rear shocks (rears have 2 hole pistons). it's smart to scratch onto the front shoxs a "F" 2 know they are from the front.

2 hole piston? anyone have a picture on this to show me?

on the mtx2 if its the roughly same set up it could be your sway bar putting it out. escpecially the length of the adjusters that clip on the lower arms and check the flatness of it.

is the piston the actualy shock rod? if so, where can i see this hole?

i'll check the adjusters, but they are even last time i checked...

you can affectively change the length of the shock by screwing the top collar up or down. ( as long as your not already pre-loading the spring, ie compressing it even when the when the car is of the ground or setting zero droop).

If you screw the the ball connector out on the end of the shaft it will only extend the overal lenght of the shock. This allows the shock to extend further down but it doesn't change the shock length when its in stationary position under load of car or affect your tweak.

you can disconect the sway bars first, adjust the shocks till the tweak is even, then reconect them and adjust till tweaks is even again.

also you get a better idea by lifting one wheel of the ground and seeing how high it will go before the opposite one lifts off. Then lifting the opposite to see the difference. Then adjust till even.
Check front and rear first as they affect each other.

Any other ideas

The piston is the plastic disk that is screwed to the end of the rod.
when you put it together the instructions make a note to put the 2 hole pistons on the rear.

The pistons have up to 4 indents so you can drill out more holes if you require, but as Thomas said they both have to be the same in the front or rear.

thanks for the input fellas... i'll give it a go tonite when i get home and check it out...

i have now fixed my tweak...

for the front...

when i bought the aluminium front anti rollbar, it came with these two flaps which connects before the arms... these flaps me thinks adjusts the tension travel of the arm... so i adjusted them so that both arms travel smoothly... and because i made sure that the single hole piston is at the front and made sure that all shocks are equal... it then did the rest.... so my tweak is now dead even...


for the rear...

i took on muugens advice and lengthened the shock which lifted the wheel first and extended the actual shock cap... and that did the trick... now my car has no tweak at the fron and at the rear...

thanks for all your help peoples...