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Old 03-17-2003, 12:11 AM
  #31  
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well 2 are 16 volts and the others are 25 volts
ill see if i gots some 10 volt ones
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Old 03-17-2003, 12:21 AM
  #32  
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Originally posted by sausage_link
well 2 are 16 volts and the others are 25 volts
ill see if i gots some 10 volt ones
Go for the 16V ones. Consider that when you charge a battery it peaks between 9 and 10 (more if they're old!) volts. Also gives you some leeway if you decide to muck around with 7 cells

BTW they make a nice mess when they explode!
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Old 03-17-2003, 02:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally posted by vr01
Go for the 16V ones. Consider that when you charge a battery it peaks between 9 and 10 (more if they're old!) volts. Also gives you some leeway if you decide to muck around with 7 cells

BTW they make a nice mess when they explode!
batteries might PEAK at 9-10 volts... but are VERY rarely over 8.5 when actually put into a car (check it out next time with a multi-meter)

10 volts will work fine most times, thought they will be a bit border line with 7 cells

I use 16v ones Myself
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Old 03-17-2003, 06:16 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by nerdling
WC, cool, where are the caps in a car stereo installed?
Always across 12V powersupply side, on the wire between battery and headunit.


(off topic)
You never put powercaps across the speaker wires (hey, its also coil + magnet & it moves...!), but if you don't run crossovers between tweeter and woofer then putting signal caps can do some basic filtering for you.
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Old 03-17-2003, 06:26 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by ShadowAu
where are you from WC? your use of the ICE term leads me to think maybe the U.K... the only place where that term has ever been widely used
haha, I'm down south in Vic... Brit-car lover definitely, but perhaps I shouldn't read 'MAX' magazine so much...

Depends where you hang out I guess. The fellas that deal in stealth instos into german wheels still use "ICE" quite a bit... ICE would mean a totally different thing to the doofdoof crowd tho!!

I've never had ANY experience with lag in response time with large caps... all quality caps start discharging within 1000ths of a second after the power supply is removed... otherwise their purpose in a car audio install is pointless... caps are meant to provide the instant power required by the amplifier to reproduce transient peaks in the music (usually bass related but not always) so unless their response was instant they would be a pointless addition
Modern car audio caps these days are probably better designed for the job... I suspect they may now even be an array of various different sized caps to improve their response time. Last one I lifted up didn't feel very "full"... like it was half empty.

In the early days (say late 80s) the boys were just starting to use caps. We would search around for large caps from used industrial equipment, these were the real deal. Roughly speaking 0.5F ones (size of a coffee mug) weighed about 1kg...
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Old 03-17-2003, 06:33 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by sausage_link
well 2 are 16 volts and the others are 25 volts
ill see if i gots some 10 volt ones
Don't bother with 10V ones, not even sure if they're easily found retail anymore. Usually the retail ones are 16V.

The voltage marked on a cap is the MAX operating voltage.

A 25V job will work identical to a 16V item if your operating voltage never exceeded 16V... but the 25V cap is usually dearer (by only a few cents) and may be physically larger.

The high-voltage ones like 250V or 400V are usually for mains filtering and are designed for AC voltage. Non-polarised caps are more expensive too.
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Old 03-18-2003, 12:39 AM
  #37  
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mate i have so many caps its not funny

i got one the size of a D cell battery i got a couple of 10 volt ones

and your right the 25v one is considerably larger and i was thinking they would work the same even tho the voltage rating is different
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