1LikesHELP! Hyper 7 TQ Engine Problems During Break-in
08-11-2019 | 06:22 PM
#1
HELP! Hyper 7 TQ Engine Problems During Break-in
Hi guys,
Sorry for the long post that's coming up.
Haven't played with Nitro care for at least 10 years and just bought a brand new Hyper 7 TQ Buggy with the Hyper 21 3-port engine for my son to try and introduce him to the hobby. It's been a nightmare trying to start the engine to do the break-in process. My son hasn't been happy about it and I'm worried it's going to put him off the hobby even before he's started.
Was going through the break-in process of idling the engine for 3 tanks and then 2 tanks of easy driving, as per the manual that came with the car. Anyway, before even getting the engine started on the first tank, we broke the pull start, it wouldn't recoil. It broke because of the hard pulls, especially with the tight pinch of the piston and sleeve. Took the pull start off the engine to have a look and the spring popped out and it was a nightmare trying to put it back in. So decided to remove the spring and the cord winder and just put the cover back onto the engine and plug up the hole where the cord goes through. I had a starter box, so decided to use that to start the car. Tried numerous times to start the engine, but it wouldn't start. There would be times when the piston would get to TDC and get stuck due to the tight pinch of the new engine, so I would turn the flywheel by using a screwdriver and prying it from the bottom to make it turn as it was too tight to just use my fingers. Of course, each time this happened, it would slightly damage the flywheel. the tightness was there even when I removed the glow plug. Anyway, did this a few times and eventually the engine started and we left it idling for the full tank.
Once the tank was almost empty, we stopped the eninge and left it to cool down for 5 minutes, making sure the piston was at BDC and "loose". Go to start it again, same thing happens. It would crank a little and then get stuck at TDC and have to pry the flywheel to loosen it and then tried starting it on the box again. Did this again and again and it would get stuck again and again. During my attempts to start the engine, I would remove the glow plug to release the compression, heat up the engine with a heat gun and try to crank the engine, but it would do the same thing of getting stuck at TDC. Even running the engine for one tank, it didn't seem like the tightness had reduced. So kept prying the flywheel to loosen it, then trying to start it on the box. Eventually after about an hour of trying, it finally started and we idled it for the second tank.
Time for third tank and what do you know, the same thing happens. Spent another hour doing what we have been doing just to try and crank the engine and start it. While during this time with all the prying of the flywheel, most of the small teeth on the flywheel have broken off from the the force required to turn it using the screwdriver. Eventually it started and I'm thinking surley it will be all nice and loose by now after three tanks, so I can just turn it with my fingers. NOPE!
Going for the 4th tank and again the same issues. This time it seemed like the tightness is even worse! with all the prying, the flywheel pretty was much shot and doesn't have any teeth left in the areas that corresponds to the piston's TDC. I even broke two screwdrivers trying to pry it and tunr it. I removed the engine from the car to turn the flywheel with my hand. It required alot of force to turn it and eventually it got loose, so I'm thinking it should be ok now. Put it back onto the car and try to start it and it happens again and the piston gets stuck at TDC with no way of being able to turn the flywheel without taking it off the car again. At this point I'm p1$$ed off and gave up.
Has anyone had this problem before and if so, how did you sort it out? I'm really stumped on why the pinch is so tight. I know new engines are tight, but not this tight, especially after 3 full tanks of idling. I've given up on trying to sort it out and pretty much thinking it's a $500 dud that I bought. The unfortunate thing is my son has waited so long to play with it and his disappointment really shows. I'm going to take it back to the hobby shop I bought it from and see if they can help. I might need to get the flywheel changed, because it looks terrible. Knowing my luck, they will say the engine is stuffed and not covered under warranty!
Sorry for the long post that's coming up.
Haven't played with Nitro care for at least 10 years and just bought a brand new Hyper 7 TQ Buggy with the Hyper 21 3-port engine for my son to try and introduce him to the hobby. It's been a nightmare trying to start the engine to do the break-in process. My son hasn't been happy about it and I'm worried it's going to put him off the hobby even before he's started.
Was going through the break-in process of idling the engine for 3 tanks and then 2 tanks of easy driving, as per the manual that came with the car. Anyway, before even getting the engine started on the first tank, we broke the pull start, it wouldn't recoil. It broke because of the hard pulls, especially with the tight pinch of the piston and sleeve. Took the pull start off the engine to have a look and the spring popped out and it was a nightmare trying to put it back in. So decided to remove the spring and the cord winder and just put the cover back onto the engine and plug up the hole where the cord goes through. I had a starter box, so decided to use that to start the car. Tried numerous times to start the engine, but it wouldn't start. There would be times when the piston would get to TDC and get stuck due to the tight pinch of the new engine, so I would turn the flywheel by using a screwdriver and prying it from the bottom to make it turn as it was too tight to just use my fingers. Of course, each time this happened, it would slightly damage the flywheel. the tightness was there even when I removed the glow plug. Anyway, did this a few times and eventually the engine started and we left it idling for the full tank.
Once the tank was almost empty, we stopped the eninge and left it to cool down for 5 minutes, making sure the piston was at BDC and "loose". Go to start it again, same thing happens. It would crank a little and then get stuck at TDC and have to pry the flywheel to loosen it and then tried starting it on the box again. Did this again and again and it would get stuck again and again. During my attempts to start the engine, I would remove the glow plug to release the compression, heat up the engine with a heat gun and try to crank the engine, but it would do the same thing of getting stuck at TDC. Even running the engine for one tank, it didn't seem like the tightness had reduced. So kept prying the flywheel to loosen it, then trying to start it on the box. Eventually after about an hour of trying, it finally started and we idled it for the second tank.
Time for third tank and what do you know, the same thing happens. Spent another hour doing what we have been doing just to try and crank the engine and start it. While during this time with all the prying of the flywheel, most of the small teeth on the flywheel have broken off from the the force required to turn it using the screwdriver. Eventually it started and I'm thinking surley it will be all nice and loose by now after three tanks, so I can just turn it with my fingers. NOPE!
Going for the 4th tank and again the same issues. This time it seemed like the tightness is even worse! with all the prying, the flywheel pretty was much shot and doesn't have any teeth left in the areas that corresponds to the piston's TDC. I even broke two screwdrivers trying to pry it and tunr it. I removed the engine from the car to turn the flywheel with my hand. It required alot of force to turn it and eventually it got loose, so I'm thinking it should be ok now. Put it back onto the car and try to start it and it happens again and the piston gets stuck at TDC with no way of being able to turn the flywheel without taking it off the car again. At this point I'm p1$$ed off and gave up.
Has anyone had this problem before and if so, how did you sort it out? I'm really stumped on why the pinch is so tight. I know new engines are tight, but not this tight, especially after 3 full tanks of idling. I've given up on trying to sort it out and pretty much thinking it's a $500 dud that I bought. The unfortunate thing is my son has waited so long to play with it and his disappointment really shows. I'm going to take it back to the hobby shop I bought it from and see if they can help. I might need to get the flywheel changed, because it looks terrible. Knowing my luck, they will say the engine is stuffed and not covered under warranty!
08-12-2019 | 11:50 AM
#2
Are you using a hairdryer or heat gun to get the motor nice and hot before starting? That will help alot. Also the pinch of the motor will still be tight for quite a few more tanks yet, you just have to persevere, it’s frustrating I know. If the budget allows, try and find an electric buggy or truck to get your son into the hobby until you get the nitro up and running.
08-12-2019 | 02:14 PM
#3
Are you using a hairdryer or heat gun to get the motor nice and hot before starting? That will help alot. Also the pinch of the motor will still be tight for quite a few more tanks yet, you just have to persevere, it’s frustrating I know. If the budget allows, try and find an electric buggy or truck to get your son into the hobby until you get the nitro up and running.
I’ve been hearing it up with a heat gun, but I think I may not be heating it enough. I’ll try and heat it longer and give it a try.
Thanks for the advice.
08-18-2019 | 05:55 PM
#7
I am in Sydney, but didn't get a chance to go over the weekend. In fact, didn;t get a chance to look at the RC
Will try and sort it out at home, but if I'm really stuck I might take a drive down to Lansvale.
09-26-2019 | 08:25 PM
#8
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 126
Hyper 7
Hi, I've had a few hyper 7s still got one in fact but none had the 21 engine. I had that problem with an onrd novarossi engine & had to heat the block with a heat gun, get a nitro heat sensor to check temp but you've gotta get it at running temp 220 F allso try loosing the glow plug a turn till it starts if that doesn't work. Check the high speed needle , it may be way too rich causing a hydro lock but that's only fixable by taking glow plug out & winding engine over to clear it out. It's possible that the needle settings are too rich , my manual settings wouldn't even start the engine. Pinch is a problem with all new engines but heating the block releases the tolerances so it'll wind over. Is the starter box full powered ?? A sluggish box will stop the flywheel as soon as it makes contact. BNEW batteries for starter box & when it does start try refilling engine while it's running for a few tanks, Don't forget to lean the high speed needle 10mins of a clock face, 5 or more usually does it, then fun of tuning low speed & adjusting idle. Too small an idle gap can make an engine too hard to start but you don't sound like that problem . Hope it helps. All hobby shops should have a nitro engine temp gun. Www.speedyrc.com has good deals unfortunately they're QLD but the spot to get your reading from is the glow plug or glow plug area. The old method was drop some spit on the head & if it sizzles off immediately it was too hot 5 seconds was a good heat to sizzle to.
Tony.
Tony.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
