Courtney Marine Corps Base Off-Road Track Okinawa Japan
11-27-2009, 06:12 PM
#421
Tech Addict
Quick update fellas...
The track is coming along nicely. A bunch of us came out Friday and we got a lot of work done.
Robert worked his magic with the heavy equipment on site and leveled the whole area, giving it a very nice grade for water drainage, etc.
Ken and Jon marked off the whole track, establishing the lanes, etc, according to our sketch. We actually changed a few design elements during layout, but nothing too drastic. I think in the end it works out to make the track more interesting.
Mike used the tamper and packed a lot of the track, giving us a pretty nice surface to start with. I hear there is talk of a roller to come and really flatten it down, but that'll probably be down the road...
The Seabees left us a mound of dirt to play with, which came in handy for putting in the obsticles. Roger worked his magic once again, and supplied material to make the fan jump, tabletop, and tripple jump.
Iggy and I worked on the tabletop, which is now just one big tabletop, instead of the two smaller ones we had originally planned.
All in all, it was a very productive day, and we all got a lot done.
I think you guys are gonna really like the finished product.
'Till then, hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving...
- Paulie
The track is coming along nicely. A bunch of us came out Friday and we got a lot of work done.
Robert worked his magic with the heavy equipment on site and leveled the whole area, giving it a very nice grade for water drainage, etc.
Ken and Jon marked off the whole track, establishing the lanes, etc, according to our sketch. We actually changed a few design elements during layout, but nothing too drastic. I think in the end it works out to make the track more interesting.
Mike used the tamper and packed a lot of the track, giving us a pretty nice surface to start with. I hear there is talk of a roller to come and really flatten it down, but that'll probably be down the road...
The Seabees left us a mound of dirt to play with, which came in handy for putting in the obsticles. Roger worked his magic once again, and supplied material to make the fan jump, tabletop, and tripple jump.
Iggy and I worked on the tabletop, which is now just one big tabletop, instead of the two smaller ones we had originally planned.
All in all, it was a very productive day, and we all got a lot done.
I think you guys are gonna really like the finished product.
'Till then, hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving...
- Paulie
11-29-2009, 05:23 PM
#422
Gentlemen,
I was speaking with a few folks regarding the rules for the short course class.
Can you please provide the guidance for all interested parties to refference as we/others purchase vehicles and upgrade/aftermarket parts for the vehicles we already have.
For example, due to the tyranny of distance we deal with on a regular basis, will RPM parts be allowed?
Motors, tires, etc.
Rob
I was speaking with a few folks regarding the rules for the short course class.
Can you please provide the guidance for all interested parties to refference as we/others purchase vehicles and upgrade/aftermarket parts for the vehicles we already have.
For example, due to the tyranny of distance we deal with on a regular basis, will RPM parts be allowed?
Motors, tires, etc.
Rob
11-29-2009, 07:17 PM
#423
These are the rules I like from the Psycho Nitro Blast coming up. It doesn't mention A or H arms only the chassis. As for those type of upgrades I don't have a problem with them as I see them unnecessary.
2WD Stock Short Course Truck Rules
This class is for all 2WD Ready-To-Run Short Course Trucks. All manufacturers are welcome in this class, with the following restrictions:
Chassis:
- The chassis must remain in stock form. No aftermarket chassis may be used.
Body:
- The body used must be a full-fender truck body that is specifically made for short course trucks.
- The body must completely cover the tires when viewed from above.
- No add-on spoilers or wings allowed.
Tires and Wheels:
- All tires and wheels must be made specifically for short course trucks.
- Wheel Inner Bead Max Diameter .. 3.0 in / 76.20mm
- Wheel Outer Bead Max Diameter . 2.2 in / 55.88mm
- Wheel Bead Width Max 1.55 in / 39.37mm
- Wheel Width Max . 1.65 in / 41.91mm
- Tire Maximum Width (mounted)... 1.85 in / 46.99mm
- Tire Diameter Min (mounted)... . 4.20 in / 106.68mm
- Tire Tread .. Treaded, NO Cut/Custom
Driveline:
- Gear or Ball differentials allowed.
- Any pinion or spur that fits the vehicle without modification may be used.
Suspension:
All suspension parts must remain stock, with the following exceptions:
- Traxxas Slash shocks are allowed to have aluminum caps and bodies.
- Any shocks from any RTR kit may be used on another brand of RTR kit, so long as the suspension arms do not have to be modified in any way.
- Springs must remain stock.
Motor:
- Only motors that come with the Ready-To-Run kits will be allowed.
- A motor from a different brand of RTR SCT may be used (Example: A Traxxas 12T Titan may be used on an Associated SC10, etc)
- The Electronic Speed Control used must be one that comes included with a Ready-To-Run Short Course Truck. It may be from a different manufacturer.
- No brushless motors may be used.
- Examples of legal motors for this class include the 12T Titan (Traxxas), 15T Firebolt (HPI), Reedy 17T (Associated), 12T 550 Losi motor.
Batteries:
- 2S 7.4v LiPo packs (no capacity limit) and 7.2v 6-cell NiMH packs (no capacity limit) are allowed.
Weight:
- All trucks must weigh no less than 4.75 pounds race-ready.
Parts from one brand of Ready-To-Run kit may be used on another brand, but the part must be available on a Ready-To-Run kit. (Example shocks from a Losi kit being used on an HPI, etc).
Any issues not addressed in these rules may be discussed with the race directors. All decisions by the race directors are final.
2WD Stock Short Course Truck Rules
This class is for all 2WD Ready-To-Run Short Course Trucks. All manufacturers are welcome in this class, with the following restrictions:
Chassis:
- The chassis must remain in stock form. No aftermarket chassis may be used.
Body:
- The body used must be a full-fender truck body that is specifically made for short course trucks.
- The body must completely cover the tires when viewed from above.
- No add-on spoilers or wings allowed.
Tires and Wheels:
- All tires and wheels must be made specifically for short course trucks.
- Wheel Inner Bead Max Diameter .. 3.0 in / 76.20mm
- Wheel Outer Bead Max Diameter . 2.2 in / 55.88mm
- Wheel Bead Width Max 1.55 in / 39.37mm
- Wheel Width Max . 1.65 in / 41.91mm
- Tire Maximum Width (mounted)... 1.85 in / 46.99mm
- Tire Diameter Min (mounted)... . 4.20 in / 106.68mm
- Tire Tread .. Treaded, NO Cut/Custom
Driveline:
- Gear or Ball differentials allowed.
- Any pinion or spur that fits the vehicle without modification may be used.
Suspension:
All suspension parts must remain stock, with the following exceptions:
- Traxxas Slash shocks are allowed to have aluminum caps and bodies.
- Any shocks from any RTR kit may be used on another brand of RTR kit, so long as the suspension arms do not have to be modified in any way.
- Springs must remain stock.
Motor:
- Only motors that come with the Ready-To-Run kits will be allowed.
- A motor from a different brand of RTR SCT may be used (Example: A Traxxas 12T Titan may be used on an Associated SC10, etc)
- The Electronic Speed Control used must be one that comes included with a Ready-To-Run Short Course Truck. It may be from a different manufacturer.
- No brushless motors may be used.
- Examples of legal motors for this class include the 12T Titan (Traxxas), 15T Firebolt (HPI), Reedy 17T (Associated), 12T 550 Losi motor.
Batteries:
- 2S 7.4v LiPo packs (no capacity limit) and 7.2v 6-cell NiMH packs (no capacity limit) are allowed.
Weight:
- All trucks must weigh no less than 4.75 pounds race-ready.
Parts from one brand of Ready-To-Run kit may be used on another brand, but the part must be available on a Ready-To-Run kit. (Example shocks from a Losi kit being used on an HPI, etc).
Any issues not addressed in these rules may be discussed with the race directors. All decisions by the race directors are final.
11-29-2009, 07:20 PM
#424
Just went by the site as they were arriving with 2 loads of dirt. Moore said they are going to do another trip today.
On the SCT class, there are a couple different ways of doing things to make it competetive cost effective. Some tracks in the states are doing a box stock class. Pull it out the box and that is what you can use. Another popular way, is any of the parts from any SCT RTR can be mixed and matched. Using a slash esc in a blitz or slash tires on an sc10 is ok.
I think arms and other parts that may break easily and do not change the suspension geometry, basically durability mods, should be allowed. Saying this, I think the box stock class would be the most fair. The best example is that the slash has the best tires, is top heavy, and a mid pack motor, the sc10 has a faster motor, lower cg, but garbage tires. on the track they will run similar times. If you let the sc10 use the slash tires, it will walk on a slash.
We all have tons of other cars to mod, these need to be left alone for bashing.
I just ordered a blitz today. Already have a slash on the way for Luke.
On the SCT class, there are a couple different ways of doing things to make it competetive cost effective. Some tracks in the states are doing a box stock class. Pull it out the box and that is what you can use. Another popular way, is any of the parts from any SCT RTR can be mixed and matched. Using a slash esc in a blitz or slash tires on an sc10 is ok.
I think arms and other parts that may break easily and do not change the suspension geometry, basically durability mods, should be allowed. Saying this, I think the box stock class would be the most fair. The best example is that the slash has the best tires, is top heavy, and a mid pack motor, the sc10 has a faster motor, lower cg, but garbage tires. on the track they will run similar times. If you let the sc10 use the slash tires, it will walk on a slash.
We all have tons of other cars to mod, these need to be left alone for bashing.
I just ordered a blitz today. Already have a slash on the way for Luke.
Last edited by igyrigged; 11-29-2009 at 09:15 PM.
11-29-2009, 08:31 PM
#425
Thanks for the clarification,
All mods done to my slash are for durability,
minus the motor, due to the lag time in getting new ones over here (yes I have an extra) i went with 13t purchased from RC paradise, this was inexpensive and allows for locally procured parts in a pinch,
Another question,
Hardware, is stock or stock SS hardware all that will be allowed or can we use longer hardware with self locking nuts?
Sorry for the knuckleheaded questions, just trying to make sure all areas are covered so I can make sure my ride is ready....
if nothing else, I will buy another Slash and leave it box stock,,,,
P.S., does anyone know the guys selling their RC stuff on Oki Yardsales?
Iggy,
there is a guy on there wanting to know places and people to crawl with, he posted in the Hobby section.
All mods done to my slash are for durability,
minus the motor, due to the lag time in getting new ones over here (yes I have an extra) i went with 13t purchased from RC paradise, this was inexpensive and allows for locally procured parts in a pinch,
Another question,
Hardware, is stock or stock SS hardware all that will be allowed or can we use longer hardware with self locking nuts?
Sorry for the knuckleheaded questions, just trying to make sure all areas are covered so I can make sure my ride is ready....
if nothing else, I will buy another Slash and leave it box stock,,,,
P.S., does anyone know the guys selling their RC stuff on Oki Yardsales?
Iggy,
there is a guy on there wanting to know places and people to crawl with, he posted in the Hobby section.
11-29-2009, 09:38 PM
#426
Robert can we get a go ahead on the Conex ISO or whatever to get it at least on base? I'd like to start measuring for the rails/stairs.
We NEED stakes for the tubing. I'll try to get some more tubing up there this week so we can start marking the perimeter and see what we got. And it's much easier for track development standing on the driver stand...think Paulie would be good at that...
After all that bashing after building the baja is uninjured...Igy we gotta think of quick track mods for the baja's to run, wider turns, remove interior sections etc....It'll clear the triple...
We NEED stakes for the tubing. I'll try to get some more tubing up there this week so we can start marking the perimeter and see what we got. And it's much easier for track development standing on the driver stand...think Paulie would be good at that...
After all that bashing after building the baja is uninjured...Igy we gotta think of quick track mods for the baja's to run, wider turns, remove interior sections etc....It'll clear the triple...
11-29-2009, 10:52 PM
#427
can you all please provide size and number of stakes needed for the tubing?,
I will stop and get some early this week if you tell me how many and where to get them.
I will also work the ISO issue.
if all else fails, we can duct tape Paulie to the top of the backhoe and drive him back and forth across the pit area, shouting orders at you as you slave away on the course, in return you can all throw rocks at him, when he is hit, i will reverse direction (like duck hunter).
this will serve two purposes,
1. it will speed up course layout.
2. it will end bickering about course layout....
just kidding Paulie,... we will put you in the bucket... it gives you a sporting chance that way.
I will stop and get some early this week if you tell me how many and where to get them.
I will also work the ISO issue.
if all else fails, we can duct tape Paulie to the top of the backhoe and drive him back and forth across the pit area, shouting orders at you as you slave away on the course, in return you can all throw rocks at him, when he is hit, i will reverse direction (like duck hunter).
this will serve two purposes,
1. it will speed up course layout.
2. it will end bickering about course layout....
just kidding Paulie,... we will put you in the bucket... it gives you a sporting chance that way.
11-30-2009, 01:08 AM
#428
The stakes are about 12" and are available at most local hardware stores makeman, sakumoto, kanehide)for about 150 yen, they are just a large nail with an orange or green plastic tab on them. We will need about one every six feet, so about 150 to 200 stakes.
I will have funny dreams tonight of Paulie in the bucket ducking rocks as I don't want to waste any duct tape...
I will have funny dreams tonight of Paulie in the bucket ducking rocks as I don't want to waste any duct tape...
11-30-2009, 02:05 PM
#429
Tech Addict
Easy there fellas...
I was just trying to stick to the course design that YA'LL voted on...
The only rocks that'll be thrown are gonna be from our tires when were all having fun on the track!
Sweet dreams Jon,
Night night.
- P
I was just trying to stick to the course design that YA'LL voted on...
The only rocks that'll be thrown are gonna be from our tires when were all having fun on the track!
Sweet dreams Jon,
Night night.
- P
12-01-2009, 01:06 AM
#430
All,
Speaking of rocks,
I stopped by the site tonight after work, there is alot more dirt there today on the lower track,
with some sizeable rocks,
they dumped some dirt over by the beginners course as well, and smoothed it out, so, who is available for some work days this upcoming weekend?
I am in for both days if there are others willing to come out.
I would venture to guess that we could have the upper course finished and the lower course 70% and the beginners course done in two good days of work.
I will probably be working the site mid afternoon Fri if anyone is free to help, if not I can atleast smooth things for an early start Sat.
i will check with the seabee's and see if they are working Sat as well,
That would make a HUGE difference and speed things along nicely. i will be leaving for a week on mon the 7th,
Let me know what you all think about this weekend, as I see our time with the seabee's coming to an end sooner rather than later.
I will talk with themon site tomorrow and ask them to put some dirt in the upper right hand corner for the bank/berm of the turn, do you all want some on the upper left as well at the end of the long straight away?
Rob
Speaking of rocks,
I stopped by the site tonight after work, there is alot more dirt there today on the lower track,
with some sizeable rocks,
they dumped some dirt over by the beginners course as well, and smoothed it out, so, who is available for some work days this upcoming weekend?
I am in for both days if there are others willing to come out.
I would venture to guess that we could have the upper course finished and the lower course 70% and the beginners course done in two good days of work.
I will probably be working the site mid afternoon Fri if anyone is free to help, if not I can atleast smooth things for an early start Sat.
i will check with the seabee's and see if they are working Sat as well,
That would make a HUGE difference and speed things along nicely. i will be leaving for a week on mon the 7th,
Let me know what you all think about this weekend, as I see our time with the seabee's coming to an end sooner rather than later.
I will talk with themon site tomorrow and ask them to put some dirt in the upper right hand corner for the bank/berm of the turn, do you all want some on the upper left as well at the end of the long straight away?
Rob
12-01-2009, 04:00 AM
#432
I can be there all day Sunday but I am booked for Saturday.
12-01-2009, 04:39 AM
#433
what time should I be there?
12-02-2009, 02:35 AM
#434
I talked with Mike today, we will try to get the tamper, skid and roller for Sunday. Hoping to be there between 8-9. Mike won't be able to stay so we have to limit the roller and tamper to knowing operators.
I picked up about 15 stakes (all they had at Kanehide)they were 150 yen and look like this...
I picked up about 15 stakes (all they had at Kanehide)they were 150 yen and look like this...
12-02-2009, 04:54 AM
#435
Help
I can help out Sunday morning for a few hours.I never been to Courtney and I have no idea how to get there. I live on 23 by the Coco's that's getting renovated. Directions from here would help alot. Thanks.