Team Br00d Racing Motors
07-03-2006, 03:43 AM
#3031
Tech Adept
Congrats for Dumas making the A-main at the 1/12 world championship using the br00d power!! 
07-05-2006, 05:46 PM
#3032
Yes, Congradulations go out to Team Br00d driver Mike Dumas for making the 1/12th A-Main at the 2006 IFMAR world Championships!
Mike finished 6th overall using Team Br00d horsepower and Pure Energy IB4200SHV cells, in his Speedmerchant Rev 4.5
Mike finished 6th overall using Team Br00d horsepower and Pure Energy IB4200SHV cells, in his Speedmerchant Rev 4.5
07-06-2006, 05:06 PM
#3033
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: princeton, NJ and wall street, NYC
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Hello peter and eddio
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
Last edited by aoizip; 07-06-2006 at 05:22 PM.
07-06-2006, 05:23 PM
#3034
Originally Posted by aoizip
Hello peter and eddio
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
07-06-2006, 06:12 PM
#3036
Originally Posted by aoizip
Hello peter and eddio
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
I just received the new bms alignment bar and i have couple questions.
it seems the bar is bent a little bit or slightly tiled to one side. I can see the metal stress mark on the alignment bar . this is in laydwon configuration.
the bar that goes into the top's bearing can not go thru the alignment bar's hole when used in stand up. but no problem with lay down.
it doesn't seems normal to me.
is it possible for an exchange?
thanks.
Ming
07-06-2006, 06:55 PM
#3037
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: princeton, NJ and wall street, NYC
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
hi PitCrew.
both side of hole were very tight in stand up. after some close inspection, the bar were actually bent. i also put the bar on the flat table, if you press one end of the bar, the bar will tilt up at other end.
Im not usually that picky about it, i just think this one is a defective one due to some condition.
Garret:
you got pm.. thank you for the help
~Ming
both side of hole were very tight in stand up. after some close inspection, the bar were actually bent. i also put the bar on the flat table, if you press one end of the bar, the bar will tilt up at other end.
Im not usually that picky about it, i just think this one is a defective one due to some condition.
Garret:
you got pm.. thank you for the help
~Ming
07-06-2006, 07:37 PM
#3038
Originally Posted by aoizip
hi PitCrew.
both side of hole were very tight in stand up. after some close inspection, the bar were actually bent. i also put the bar on the flat table, if you press one end of the bar, the bar will tilt up at other end.
Im not usually that picky about it, i just think this one is a defective one due to some condition.
Garret:
you got pm.. thank you for the help
~Ming
both side of hole were very tight in stand up. after some close inspection, the bar were actually bent. i also put the bar on the flat table, if you press one end of the bar, the bar will tilt up at other end.
Im not usually that picky about it, i just think this one is a defective one due to some condition.
Garret:
you got pm.. thank you for the help
~Ming
send it back and we will send you a new one.
07-07-2006, 02:23 PM
#3039
Tech Initiate
What is happening with the missing items in order #1027!?!?!??!?!!
07-08-2006, 12:51 AM
#3040
Tech Regular
hi. i run a Brood 9x2 Ti (I think - the one with the standup brushes)
the timing is at 1.5notches.
the track i run at is a open long track. over 40meter straight. (prob a 8 turn would be more approriate)
I am runing 24mm roll out.
I found that after 1 run that the comm is all scuffed. and can hardly finish the run coz it gets scuffed up so bad. infact it runs slower than my stock motor.
I give it a fresh cut before i go out. I have tried xxx brushes and still no good.
I have tried 25mm roll out to 23mm rollout without any success.
anyone can help me figure what may be wrong or i can try?
the timing is at 1.5notches.
the track i run at is a open long track. over 40meter straight. (prob a 8 turn would be more approriate)
I am runing 24mm roll out.
I found that after 1 run that the comm is all scuffed. and can hardly finish the run coz it gets scuffed up so bad. infact it runs slower than my stock motor.
I give it a fresh cut before i go out. I have tried xxx brushes and still no good.
I have tried 25mm roll out to 23mm rollout without any success.
anyone can help me figure what may be wrong or i can try?
07-08-2006, 08:17 AM
#3041
Regional Moderator
gearing questions are very hard to answer. Let's start with
What rollout are others running at this track?
Are others running this type motor?
If they are, What timing are they using?
It seems you have tried gearing changes without success.
Try reducing the timing to 12deg. That's 1 notch. IF that still shows the problem try the other way and go to higher timing.
Hope that helps
What rollout are others running at this track?
Are others running this type motor?
If they are, What timing are they using?
It seems you have tried gearing changes without success.
Try reducing the timing to 12deg. That's 1 notch. IF that still shows the problem try the other way and go to higher timing.
Hope that helps
Originally Posted by qwerty
hi. i run a Brood 9x2 Ti (I think - the one with the standup brushes)
the timing is at 1.5notches.
the track i run at is a open long track. over 40meter straight. (prob a 8 turn would be more approriate)
I am runing 24mm roll out.
I found that after 1 run that the comm is all scuffed. and can hardly finish the run coz it gets scuffed up so bad. infact it runs slower than my stock motor.
I give it a fresh cut before i go out. I have tried xxx brushes and still no good.
I have tried 25mm roll out to 23mm rollout without any success.
anyone can help me figure what may be wrong or i can try?
the timing is at 1.5notches.
the track i run at is a open long track. over 40meter straight. (prob a 8 turn would be more approriate)
I am runing 24mm roll out.
I found that after 1 run that the comm is all scuffed. and can hardly finish the run coz it gets scuffed up so bad. infact it runs slower than my stock motor.
I give it a fresh cut before i go out. I have tried xxx brushes and still no good.
I have tried 25mm roll out to 23mm rollout without any success.
anyone can help me figure what may be wrong or i can try?
07-08-2006, 01:28 PM
#3042
07-10-2006, 01:19 PM
#3043
Hey guys... just getting back into electric after a long while away. Forgive me for the question... but is there a large difference in buying a tuned motor, vs an out of the box motor? Im looking at the KD 19t for offroad... I have heard these things scream out of the box even!!
What brushes are reccomended for this motor after purchase?
What brushes are reccomended for this motor after purchase?
07-10-2006, 02:27 PM
#3045
Originally Posted by FlyByWire
Hey guys... just getting back into electric after a long while away. Forgive me for the question... but is there a large difference in buying a tuned motor, vs an out of the box motor? Im looking at the KD 19t for offroad... I have heard these things scream out of the box even!!
What brushes are reccomended for this motor after purchase?
What brushes are reccomended for this motor after purchase?
But what's nicer is this... when you buy your motor out of the box there is a chance you'll get a dud motor. But when you purchase a motor from a tuner you're going to get a good motor. The motors still all have different levels of excellence, but the weakest motor that a tuner is going to send you is still going to be as good as the average motor out of the box. Also, getting your motor from a tuner takes out the guess work of you playing with your motor to ensure that its performing optimally. The tuner should make sure you have motors set to the proper springs for the environment you are running in. ie. a 1/12th scale 19T will be tuned differently from a Truck 19T. So if the tuner doesn't ask you what class you are running the motor in, run the other way.
For the KD, F Brushes and 767's seem to be the most popular choices. The F Brushes tend to have better wear and last longer. In my experience, F-Brushes have a little less torque, so run them 1 tooth less then 767's.
Paul