Trinity and ReVtech Motors discussion
#436
Tech Regular
thanks
just saw that there are 2 versions of the revtech, 1055 with high torque rotor and 1052 with broad powerband rotor, what would be best?
will be running on small/med size carpet tracks
just saw that there are 2 versions of the revtech, 1055 with high torque rotor and 1052 with broad powerband rotor, what would be best?
will be running on small/med size carpet tracks
#440
Tech Regular
Will run in boosted stock
How much timing does The motor come with as it comes out of The box?
How much timing does The motor come with as it comes out of The box?
#441
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (25)
1/12th scale
I run a 1/12 on carpet, 17.5 blinky. The back straight is 65' (basketball court). We generally run a more open/faster layout.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
#442
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I run a 1/12 on carpet, 17.5 blinky. The back straight is 65' (basketball court). We generally run a more open/faster layout.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
#443
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
I run a 1/12 on carpet, 17.5 blinky. The back straight is 65' (basketball court). We generally run a more open/faster layout.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
Many guys say they always run the HT 12.5 tuning rotor and a lot of advance.
If this is true, shouldn't I really run less advance for max torque and just gear up till I'm 160F. It seems like a contradiction to crank timing on a torque rotor as some guys have told me they do.
#444
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
I just picked up a Revteck 17.5 Maxilla version. Will be running with a brushless hobbies 80A ESC in Blinky/508 mode in my SC10. I have a couple questions:
1. I believe the motor comes with 30* of timing, is that the same with the Maxilla version?
2. How many degress of timing does each timing mark on the can equal? 3*? 8*?
3. Any gearing suggestions? I have a 17.5 with the regular rotor now geared 28/75 with full timing on the can. After 6 min's, comes off at 148*, but I am NOTICEABLY slower than most every other driver. I got that motor used. Once I get this new one installed, I'll be taking it apart to make sure everything inside is good.
Thanks guys!
1. I believe the motor comes with 30* of timing, is that the same with the Maxilla version?
2. How many degress of timing does each timing mark on the can equal? 3*? 8*?
3. Any gearing suggestions? I have a 17.5 with the regular rotor now geared 28/75 with full timing on the can. After 6 min's, comes off at 148*, but I am NOTICEABLY slower than most every other driver. I got that motor used. Once I get this new one installed, I'll be taking it apart to make sure everything inside is good.
Thanks guys!
#445
I sent in a revtech battery for warranty a few weeks ago and I still have not heard anything. How long has it taken you guys for warranty from them?
#446
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
I waited for almost 2 months,finally owner of the lhs gave me one of his
packs instead. Seems funny to me that they had plenty of packs when i bought it initially,but never had any for warranty. have since gone to another brand with awesome performance and excellent c/s
#448
x2 - I think I found the answer on page 20...For the 12.3 vs 12.5 rotors. Is the 13mm HT for the 21.5 & 25.5 crawler motors? Either way I ordered a 12.5mm HT and will start there.
Last edited by 2xs; 11-08-2012 at 09:19 AM.
#449
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Looking into getting a rotor. Some info: I have a D3.5 17.5, that I run no boost in TRCR.
I would like to get a HT rotor but need more info.
12.5mm and the 12.3mm and the 13mm rotors, will these work on the D3.5? and why is it that the 12.5 and the 12.3 rotors say D3 on them?
do these numbers mean that the 13mm rotor will have the most torque?
Can someone please explain shimming these rotors?
I would like to get a HT rotor but need more info.
12.5mm and the 12.3mm and the 13mm rotors, will these work on the D3.5? and why is it that the 12.5 and the 12.3 rotors say D3 on them?
do these numbers mean that the 13mm rotor will have the most torque?
Can someone please explain shimming these rotors?
#450
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Looking into getting a rotor. Some info: I have a D3.5 17.5, that I run no boost in TRCR.
I would like to get a HT rotor but need more info.
12.5mm and the 12.3mm and the 13mm rotors, will these work on the D3.5? and why is it that the 12.5 and the 12.3 rotors say D3 on them?
do these numbers mean that the 13mm rotor will have the most torque?
Can someone please explain shimming these rotors?
I would like to get a HT rotor but need more info.
12.5mm and the 12.3mm and the 13mm rotors, will these work on the D3.5? and why is it that the 12.5 and the 12.3 rotors say D3 on them?
do these numbers mean that the 13mm rotor will have the most torque?
Can someone please explain shimming these rotors?
Shimming the rotor refers to the shims in the front and rear of the rotor shaft. You want just enough shims on the rear to keep the rotor from touching the sensors. Look at the sensor board and you want to see just a little bit of space between the rotor and sensors, prob just a few mm. You will also need to shim the front of the rotor so that when the motor is all together you get just a tad bit of play when you pull on the rotor shaft.