Tekin Prez

The RS and RSpro do not come with sensor cables. The Redline S motors do come with a 200mm sensor cable. We offer a 100mm and a 200mm sensor cable as accessories that should be compatible with any motor and speedo.

TT3810 - 200mm
TT3811 - 100mm

Tekin Prez

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

hello,

Now I dont want to start a flame war or sound nasty, but please be assured that I am angry, but still I love Tekin as a company and I still use the G12 and P12 happily, so I will not talk bad or be rude...

I just want to know something and I want a plain simple and honest answer thats it.

I purchased a R1 pro, and I think, honest to god, it is worthless for hardcore 1/10 touring car racing. Am I right or am I wrong.

If I am right, what in the HEll I can do with this crap.... target practice maybe???

Please dont answer if you are not part of Tekin (owner worker etc..)

If I am wrong, I want proof. below is a list of Items I have and the problems and what I want...

I have;
Vortex 3.5, 5.5, 6.5 and 13.5
SP 4.5R
hotwire and laptop
TRF415MRE and TRF416 (just in case the ESC is picky about the car)
3PK with DSM HRS
orion 4200WC, intellect 4600
Sorex tires (24, 28, 32, 36)

What is wrong;

The car goes back, then goes forward with a nasty sound, after 25 percent throttle sound siezes
chatters and shakes on start up
start up has 0 punch you can not launch forward fast enough for A-main starts
locks up for no reason coming into a 180 turn from full throttle to full braking. full throttle to stop wait the esc locks up as well
if you spin and your car rolls backwards and you happen to hit the gas the thing starts going backwards when you punch the throttle...


What is good;

Throttle response above 50 - 60 percent. once it is rolling it is strong and smooth no complaints.


What I want.

I want my new TEKIN ESC to perform better than my old beat up heatsinkless LRP TC SPEC....

TRF415boy

All the symptoms you gave tell me there must be a bad connection between the speedo and the motor. Does it do this with every motor, or only certain motors, or does it do some of the things on certain motors but not others ? I would replace the wires that go to the motors, and make sure I don't have a dry solder joint to start with.

I had the R1 working very well with anything over 4.5T, but I cannot answer for other motors.

I am assuming that you have updated the speedo to the latest software, it is very important that you do so as big improvements on the startup have been made in the last two versions. Timing on the latest versions can be increased a lot more than before too, so don't be afraid to go over 50 even on a 3.5

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

I used the original cables first. then used deans and revired with all equal at 100mm. now it is wired with shortes possible length. never worked

You used past tense.... as in it is not working very well for me now past tense. What were the settings...

I went all the way up to 100 on the 5.5 but it made things worse... 15-25 was best on a 5.5. I have the hotwire now and the esc is at 180fw. I tested mostly on the 5.5 as that was free and I was running the 3.5 and lended the 4.5 to a friend. So I didnt test the 3.5 with the new wiring

4.5 and 3.5 were tested with 174fw. 4.5 didnt run at all. 3.5 shaked, chattered, I had to kick the car to make it move... as long as you kept you finger on the throttle it was fine. if you stopped you needed a marsha to kick start the car again...

I ll slap the 3.5 on again and give it a try.
what settings do you suggest?? timing on the esc right now is at 60 anything else???

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

while at it,

One other guy had the R1 Pro at the track with tekin 448 motor apperantly it is a 4 turn sensorless 4800kv motor... since he never received any documentation with the esc like me, he first geared up like a normal motor but it was very sloooooooooooooooooooooooow.

So by the end of the day he was down to 5.1 FDR on the RDX and the car was still slow compared to the rest of the field. it didnt have the wierd sounds mine did but it was slow and lifeless.

didnt see what setup he was using as I was busy with my car...

just to let you know...

TRF415boy

I would try the 180 with the 3.5T.

I ran mine at about 24% timing, but I have been told since that some guys found a better feel, more power and less temp at higher timings, in the 60 - 80 % range, so maybe try that too. The reason I used the past tense is that I haven't raced in a while and have now a RS anyway for when I get back to it in september.

For your friend with his 448, I have no experience with them but the word with them has always been to gear them until you thermal, so tell him to buy smaller spurs or bigger pinions lol.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Tough: What software level are you running with your R1? Which motor would you like to run with?

The 448 is a great motor. Our sensorless motors have a much wider gearing range then the a sensored slotted motor like a LRP. So the gearing will not be close.

If you'd like this conversation to be quieter shoot me an e-mail:

[email protected]

png

iTrader: (1)

My ESC setting are corrupted every time after a radio calibration, not even at the default setting.

The R1 pro is updated with firmware 180.

As a result, i'm required to update all my setting if i need to perform radio calibration, is is this normal?

Is there any fast method to set all the setting to the default value, other than using hotwire and the manual hard work?

jjdoyle

iTrader: (31)

Not sure if this will help or not but I have an RS Pro and I am running a sensorless 632.

I was experiencing similar issues and Randy recommended that I move my neutral width up. I had it a min and I changed it to 5 and it was a lot better.

Before that the truck would not want to take off and would hesitate. And sometimes if you barely hit the gas it would roll back.

These changes seemed to help out a bunch. I am sure Randy will get you dialed in. I have plenty of power!

King of Bearing

iTrader: (1)

guys i got a problem with my R1 pro

the other day after wrecking my car wouldnt move. the car was still on and the motor would work when i picked the car up. so i thought itmight be a motor so went back to my pit and took the body off and there was a slight electrical smell coming from the r1. i decided to go ahead and change the motor just in case it was the motor. after puting a different motor in, i turned the r1 on the the first and last 2 light would sit and blink. there was no throttle responce and the slight elecrtical smell went away. so does anyone have any ideas on a puick fix or do i have to send it in to tekin?

thanks
Gould

Tekin Prez

Sounds borked unfortunately. Leds 1,2 and 6,7 flashing is the error code for wrong motor type selected for what is actually connected or a bad connection. Assuming you did not change the motor type to a brushed motor and have good connections to a BL motor it is likley that a phase is damaged since you smelled something electrical. We cannot detect the motor properly when a phase is damaged.

The smell of blown fets is very distinct and different than the smell of a blown cap. Look at the cap for a bulged end. It also could have been the smoke and without a good cap we struggle on low turn motors to get a good detection.

Tekin Prez

K Feath

iTrader: (1)

I would like to say what a BIG help Chris and tekin was when I called on Monday. I had run brushless for the first time over the weekend using a rs speedo and a trinity 17.5. Through each run, it seemed like the speedo was shutting down and then coming back on again. Chris explaned to me a few things, and how to correct it. I also have a hotwire coming and should be here tomorrow. Keep up the good wok, and I can't wait to throw down this weekend.

King of Bearing

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the reply. i will check the cap and see if i can get a motor to run on a different phase tonight if i have time

Gould

K Feath

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, I just got my hot wire, and it installed just fine. My question would be is what are some of the features for? For example, how do I ge the custom profile to work? Also, I set the hot wire for the 17.5 setting in the timing advance section. I also set the drag brake and the brake settings to full.

My issue is that last weekend it seemed like my RS would turn off and then come back on while I was on the track running. I'm running a 17.5 trinity motor. When I spoke to Chris at Tekin he said the hot wire would help tune the RS and it would help with my issue. He also said that I should set the timing of the motor to maximum, which I believe is 20 degrees. Also, Chris said that the factory setting from the factory is in the hybrid mode. Is this corect and if so, do I want to keep it there? Any help would be very greatfull.

I'm running 12th scale, which is a 4 cell class

I also posted this on the Tekin RS thread.

scootr117

I was hoping to get in the web site to answer this question ,but for some reason it's down. What roll out (1-12th scale) is recommended for the 17.5 redline brushless motor? I will be using one this weekend as a loaner...wouldn't want to cook it...