110LikesTamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
02-26-2006, 07:48 PM
#166
First impressions: this was my first pan car in over 10 years, so it was kinda odd building it. First complaint: only a stick pack fits comfortably; if you build your packs JRX-S style, you might be able to get a side-by-side in there, or if you shave some material off the battery mount area. Car was a pretty easy build, compared to my 415 which takes me forever to work on. The FRP chassis is stiffer than I thought it would be. Note: funky electronic placement is for better weight balance.
Last edited by Afro Puff; 04-21-2012 at 08:29 AM.
02-26-2006, 08:46 PM
#167
Looks really stock. Friction dampers? 
The servo ears have to be cut off? No body, tires? Hmm.......
The servo ears have to be cut off? No body, tires? Hmm.......
02-27-2006, 12:18 AM
#168
Originally Posted by rayman
Looks really stock. Friction dampers? The servo ears have to be cut off? No body, tires? Hmm.......
The servo ears have to be cut off? No body, tires? Hmm.......One thing I will also replace is the steering arms. Those things would last two seconds at the track I race at.
Was going to start on mine tonight, but might leave it to the weekend.
Here's a pic of the box
02-27-2006, 02:20 PM
#169
Needs some help with gear ratios. I'm looking at running a Tamiya TZ or RZ (haven't made my mind up yet) motor in my F103GT, but checking out what gear ratios I need (around high 5s, low 6s) there doesn't seem to be any gears for the F103 to suit that.
The larger spurs go into 64pitch territory, and there doesn't seem to be any pinions that go down low enough (like sub-20t) to get the gearing I need. Or is it the case that the car is so light and the drive train is so efficent that you don't need to be as fussy with gearing as you are with a heavier touring car?
The larger spurs go into 64pitch territory, and there doesn't seem to be any pinions that go down low enough (like sub-20t) to get the gearing I need. Or is it the case that the car is so light and the drive train is so efficent that you don't need to be as fussy with gearing as you are with a heavier touring car?
02-27-2006, 02:44 PM
#170
Tech Regular
For those who built the car, do you have to remove the servo ears?
02-27-2006, 03:08 PM
#171
Cutting Servo Tabs
Yes you do. As i mentioned before, i really dont know why Tamiya has opted for the original F1 style servo setup (requires servo tabs to be cut off completely). They only had the vertical servo setup due to the skinny F1 shells. They could have easily marketed this car using the LM servo setup, so we wouldnt have to sacrifice a servo case for this chassis. Im betting the LM servo chassis piece will be one of the 'hopups' for this car. Its really annoying they didnt realise it on the new chassis. Chopping up servo cases could turn away a few potential racers.
I have all my old F103 chassis and parts including the F103-TRF. Ill wait till they release the new GT-LM chassis plate, and buy the GT body mounts, front bumper and wheel adapters and ill be set with a TRF model. Problem is i bet the new GT-TRF will have alot more blue bling
I have all my old F103 chassis and parts including the F103-TRF. Ill wait till they release the new GT-LM chassis plate, and buy the GT body mounts, front bumper and wheel adapters and ill be set with a TRF model. Problem is i bet the new GT-TRF will have alot more blue bling
02-27-2006, 03:14 PM
#172
Burlap ill have to double check the circumference of the F103 F1 tyres and compare to std touring tyres. In the meantime, id probably try some robinson spurs. Last time out I was running a 48p 90t spur against a 12t pinion on my RC10L2 (motor was still overheating... i need a tyre truer!). I know robinson do pinions all the way down. Im pretty sure the lowest Tamiya 0.6 was a 12t? cant remember tho. I dont think you will have many problems with gearing.
02-27-2006, 03:46 PM
#173
Originally Posted by axle182
Burlap ill have to double check the circumference of the F103 F1 tyres and compare to std touring tyres. In the meantime, id probably try some robinson spurs. Last time out I was running a 48p 90t spur against a 12t pinion on my RC10L2 (motor was still overheating... i need a tyre truer!). I know robinson do pinions all the way down. Im pretty sure the lowest Tamiya 0.6 was a 12t? cant remember tho. I dont think you will have many problems with gearing.
Can third party spurs fit on the F103s or do you have to use the Tamiya ones?
)
02-27-2006, 09:45 PM
#175
Originally Posted by Burlap
Needs some help with gear ratios. I'm looking at running a Tamiya TZ or RZ (haven't made my mind up yet) motor in my F103GT, but checking out what gear ratios I need (around high 5s, low 6s) there doesn't seem to be any gears for the F103 to suit that.
The larger spurs go into 64pitch territory, and there doesn't seem to be any pinions that go down low enough (like sub-20t) to get the gearing I need. Or is it the case that the car is so light and the drive train is so efficent that you don't need to be as fussy with gearing as you are with a heavier touring car?
The larger spurs go into 64pitch territory, and there doesn't seem to be any pinions that go down low enough (like sub-20t) to get the gearing I need. Or is it the case that the car is so light and the drive train is so efficent that you don't need to be as fussy with gearing as you are with a heavier touring car?
02-28-2006, 07:35 AM
#176
Tech Regular
F103GT RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Hebiki,
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
02-28-2006, 06:08 PM
#177
Originally Posted by hickmeister
Hebiki,
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
steve... sweet. now i just hope it comes in on time for the seattle TCS. i heard you laid a smack down with your TA05 in GT2 out in WOH.
- chris
02-28-2006, 06:13 PM
#178
Originally Posted by hickmeister
Hebiki,
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
You will need to aquire the adjustable Ride height rear Pod from the F103, this part has a eccentric collars that will Lower and Raise the ride height in the rear of the car. This was a HOP UP PART for the F103 and you could purchase a anodized motor plate that is finned for better cooling. I think they are still available from Tamiya check there web site to check ?????
Steve.l
02-28-2006, 06:32 PM
#179
Axle182 - Tamiya already has a new hop-up LM chassis "available soon". P/N 53903. However, you can still find the F103-LM carbon chassis on e-bay.
Burlap - Tamiya has released a new aluminum finned motor mount (suprise - it's blue) and it is the height adjustable version. Same as the original F103 version that was purple. You just have to have the height adjustable plastic rear gear box set (the four pieces) to use this new motor mount on. For the whole set, you will need P/N 53257 Height Adjustable Gear case (all plastic), and then you can add the new blue aluminum heat sink P/N 53902. From the pics above, the stock kit DOES NOT come with the height adjustable gear case.
Hebiki - if you are going to be at LM (are you still out of town that weekend ?), let me know and I can bring my F103 so you can see what can be adjusted suspension wise.
Burlap - Tamiya has released a new aluminum finned motor mount (suprise - it's blue) and it is the height adjustable version. Same as the original F103 version that was purple. You just have to have the height adjustable plastic rear gear box set (the four pieces) to use this new motor mount on. For the whole set, you will need P/N 53257 Height Adjustable Gear case (all plastic), and then you can add the new blue aluminum heat sink P/N 53902. From the pics above, the stock kit DOES NOT come with the height adjustable gear case.
Hebiki - if you are going to be at LM (are you still out of town that weekend ?), let me know and I can bring my F103 so you can see what can be adjusted suspension wise.
02-28-2006, 08:02 PM
#180
Kevin: Yeah, I am going to be doing an order to my Tamiya parts dude for that, some hex screws (I hate Phillips head screws), the turnbuckle steering arms and maybe some carbon fibre bits.
So can the F103s run non-Tamiya spurs, considering that they hold the balls in place for the ball diff?
So can the F103s run non-Tamiya spurs, considering that they hold the balls in place for the ball diff?