MattK101

You need the aluminum C and D blocks for that, and also #91385 and 91389 bushings for the blocks

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Wondering if his setup will still work with 3/1?

rigor

iTrader: (44)

It's 0.5 degree difference of inboard rear toe. He apparently wanted to get the rear a little freed up it seems. You can accomplish that via other tuning methods. While not exactly the same, you could run the 2/1 C block and then add 0.5 outboard toe on the rear hubs.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

2.5 toe is gonna free it up on throttle but its also going to lock it in from over rotating in tight low speed off throttle corners, and based on the tendencies of stadium trucks i have to assume this is why he went with less toe.

jspurgin

iTrader: (216)

I haven't read thru the thread but is anyone else missing the Top Shaft in the transmission in their kits? Mine wasn't in there..

rigor

iTrader: (44)

The top shaft was packaged in a bag all by itself. AE will sort you out if it was missing though.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

As was mine.

I've ran the truck once. Really happy to be driving ST again, but not happy with rear traction.

I have to say thanks to AE - the "rear motor" arms on the B5M is a sweet change for less wheel base and more grip. AE recognized this and built the T5M with the shims in the C and D block so we can have the same option like the B5M does.

Just shortened my wheel base all the way in search for more rear bite. Running modified with a Trinity half brick and a 7.5 D4. Also lowered the rear ballstud, and going to pickup the schelle rear ballstud mount for the optional longer mount.

storm800

iTrader: (23)

I'm sure it would work well with 4 gear also. He has been running 3 gear in his buggy for a while and just likes the feel of it.

vito

my kit is on order eta is late apil

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Went to the brass C block and went 3-2 for anti squat. Really happy with the truck now. Also went full short on wheelbase - thanks AE for allowing me to move the rear arm!

islandscott

I'm having an issue where the rear of the battery strap comes out of the slot. Never had this happen on the B5m, but it's happened a few times now on the T5m. The only way I can see this happening it if the chassis is flexing enough to allow the strap to come out of the slot. The blue thumb nuts are tight and stay tight; it's a little baffling. I'm running saddle batteries, so when this happens, the saddle tries to sneak out.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

I was having that same issue today with mine..not sure of a solution for this issue yet.

Neverstop

iTrader: (6)

Got to run it some on a outdoor track this thing jumps so smooth the track was a little beat up had electric and nitro truggy and buggy running on it all day. I think my 6.5 is a little bit of overkill for it.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Do not see on teamassociated.com. Anyone know where we can get a wing replacement without having to purchase the entire body?

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Micah, the design is so simplistic, I'd recommend you buying a sheet of lexan and bending it yourself with a hair dryer.